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What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2
- Thread starter Buster Hymen
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Screwloose
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure if the air is leaking at these points, but still has to come through the filter to the carbs. What I can say is that air filter boxes are designed to take the air in at the designed points, and the air swirls around in a pre-determined pattern inside the box and through the filter. By-passing an air-box filter with a leak is not a good idea for the running of your bike.
If you go to the extreme on the other side by removing the airbox completely your Vmax runs like sh*t.
Hope that helps.
I agree. Mine had leaks on the old bike and it seemed to run lean before I replaced the air horns.
Mark
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I figured that would be the case. So instead of trashing the box, I'm rebuilding it with new home-made joints. Gonna have to remove the hot glue I put inside. That was almost a FUBAR. Don't really need it. The hoses fit very Snug. I'll just leave it on the outside though.
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Screwloose
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Hi mate. This is where I use products such as RTV 3145, wiping with alcohol first to clean the area. RTV is allot more expensive than standard silicon, but as mentioned before by me that it can bond an elephant to a battleship. I've used it for 20 years now and it is flexible but very strong, and high temp,
I discovered the stuff working in downhole drilling just up the road from you. I tend not to use my hot glue gun on plastic as it eventually tears loose if flexing to and forth.These standard air boxes are a trade-off for fuel efficiency, power, etc, and if you let more unrestricted air through then you have to be prepared to let more fuel in also, as maleko89 above. So it ends up the bike cannot be sold in some countries if the air/fuel inputs are too high, then the clever guys out in the street get a hold of the bike and increase the air and fuel intakes, and voila you have a beast in beasts clothing (upgraded VMax)
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Will do. Have to take apart again anyway. I have some on hand. Thank You. May have to change my bikes' name to to a 'The Two Timing Bit---" Seems that everything has to be done twice...Hi mate. This is where I use products such as RTV 3145, wiping with alcohol first to clean the area. RTV is allot more expensive than standard silicon, but as mentioned before by me that it can bond an elephant to a battleship. I've used it for 20 years now and it is flexible but very strong, and high temp,
These standard air boxes are a trade-off for fuel efficiency, power, etc, and if you let more unrestricted air through then you have to be prepared to let more fuel in also, as maleko89 above. So it ends up the bike cannot be sold in some countries if the air/fuel inputs are too high, then the clever guys out in the street get a hold of the bike and increase the air and fuel intakes, and voila you have a beast in beasts clothing (upgraded VMax)
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Guys just got the carbs setup and ready to crank but the 2nd fuse (10amp) keeps blowing. The fuel pump and gauges go out. Not sure what else is on that system. Changed fuel relay hoping that would help. Disconnected the gauges no help still blew. Ideas pleaseeee....?
Sounds like you got a dead short. Start tracing wires and look for a cut in a wire or something like that.
Why are you changing your brake pads? It looks like you got 5 or 10 miles of life left in those bad boys…lol
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Will do. Thanks
Have you fitted a new battery or refitted the old one?
If I recall correctly, some one had the exact problem, ignition on, lights all work, the moment the engine was cranked, the big fuse would blow.
Turned out the battery was connected the wrong way round.
If I recall correctly, some one had the exact problem, ignition on, lights all work, the moment the engine was cranked, the big fuse would blow.
Turned out the battery was connected the wrong way round.
Concentrate on the area of your last work, check your schematic and see what circuit(s) that fuse protects in that area.
Bet it something simple, something hot pinched to ground.
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As soon as I turn the key to on, it blows the fuse. I may have pinched a wire pulling the fuel pump and carbs. Gonna go into it AGAIN.
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So far I see it controls the gauges and fuel pump. They shut down once I turn the key.
Parminio
Well-Known Member
If it blows the instant you turned the key you've got a hot grounded out somewhere. For sure.
Make sure the hot wire running to the fuel pump isn't laying against any metal at all.
Make sure the hot wire running to the fuel pump isn't laying against any metal at all.
Unplug the voltage regulator and see if it keeps the fuse from blowing too.
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Will do.
This is a strange one.
Ive tan out the carbs (twice!) and don't recall what there being any wiring that is nearby, other than having to move the left hand panel that contains the relays, out of the way.
Undo the plug to the vboost so all is quiet.
When its dark, tun on the key and you may see a spark or hear it.
PS ignore what I said about the battery, you're not getting to that point.
It could be a problem in the switch itself.
Ive tan out the carbs (twice!) and don't recall what there being any wiring that is nearby, other than having to move the left hand panel that contains the relays, out of the way.
Undo the plug to the vboost so all is quiet.
When its dark, tun on the key and you may see a spark or hear it.
PS ignore what I said about the battery, you're not getting to that point.
It could be a problem in the switch itself.
Devdog
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Well, new tires (shinko 777s) today, and I topped up the oil. Still have 75 miles to go until I feel comfortable on the new tires... I accidentally purchased some rotella 10w30, going to flush with it and put in some 15w40. Thankfully, it's cheap! I feel like if I go through the gallon in a week or so, I can flush the engine without using any products which could damage the seals.
