Help Support VMAX Forum:
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
Ebay and send it off to Kossman or buy the one off of ebay from that guy that is selling the wheel with about 3 in offset to the right, it will make your vmax look like its going down the road sideways
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vmax-V-max-18-X-5-5-Rear-Wider-Wheel-Rim_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem350113773605QQitemZ350113773605
Ask him to email you a pic of one of his wheels from dead nuts center from the rear of the bike your jaw will drop.
Spend the few extra bucks and get one modded from Kossman.
Theres a reason why he doesnt have a centered pic in his ad.... Dont ya think it would be a great sales advertisement showing that big wide fat rear tire from the rear??
His wheels would be great if the VMAX was a mud bogger with rear and front wheel drive
Ask him to email you a pic of one of his wheels from dead nuts center from the rear of the bike your jaw will drop.
Spend the few extra bucks and get one modded from Kossman.
Theres a reason why he doesnt have a centered pic in his ad.... Dont ya think it would be a great sales advertisement showing that big wide fat rear tire from the rear??
His wheels would be great if the VMAX was a mud bogger with rear and front wheel drive
maxcruiser
Well-Known Member
Ok, now that we have Lankee's opinion, here's an older thread showing the offset of different rear wheels. I have an 18" rear wheel from eightsnuff off ebay and it has a 3/8" offset to the right - made to fit in swingarm without having to notch it. I have had it on for this year's riding season with no issues (about 9000 miles).
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3646&page=2
Good luck with whichever one you decide to get.
Mike
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3646&page=2
Good luck with whichever one you decide to get.
Mike
jedi-
Well-Known Member
Offset can be compensated for anyway by lugging the swingarm over to the left.
Some folk use 2 x RH swingarm pivot bolts but there is another way if anyone wants to know.
Some folk use 2 x RH swingarm pivot bolts but there is another way if anyone wants to know.
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
Funny thing is the Vmax "dog walks" from the factory.... rear tire isn't centered very well from them either. My RC wheel has an offset to the right of about 3/8" (yes it is noticable to look at, but not to ride) and I am getting it corrected by getting a new swing arm:biglaugh:
maxcruiser
Well-Known Member
I'm all ears.
jedi-
Well-Known Member
Ok, it's not groundbreaking news and the RH pivot setup is cheap anyway, but what I did was I just happened to have in my box of nuts & bolts was a 22mm nut ( machine nut fine pitch narrow width). This is off a VW input shaft from memory and because it is also the same diameter it allows the nut to double up tight against the original hex and therfore allows the locking tab to be bent over it and still work as a lock tab.
I was also considering machining off the stock hex off the stock one and just using the nut to become like the RH side but didn't need to.
Another eway would be to just use a simple spacer or washers to desired offset PROVIDED that the locking tab can still be used or modified to make it work. Even savefty wire etc.
I can take a pic of my own if anyone want's to see.
The drive shaft is a crowned coupling at the rear drive end so alignment is not an issue.
I was also considering machining off the stock hex off the stock one and just using the nut to become like the RH side but didn't need to.
Another eway would be to just use a simple spacer or washers to desired offset PROVIDED that the locking tab can still be used or modified to make it work. Even savefty wire etc.
I can take a pic of my own if anyone want's to see.
The drive shaft is a crowned coupling at the rear drive end so alignment is not an issue.
I too have one of these wheels on my Vmax, and have put about 2000 miles on it without any issues. Maybe my eyes are going bad, but I don't notice any offset on my wheel.
-MikeS
jedi-
Well-Known Member
I made my own wheel using a VTR rim and calculated what I needed to do without notching.
tyre is 180 or 190 without checking.
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
I know someone has a Kossman wheel from here and it was centered..
Hmmm Kossman who has been doing wheels for over 20 yrs or a guy who is making wheels in his shed:ummm:
Hmm bolting a wheel up that doesnt need any modifictions for alignment
Or messing with alignment to save 100-200 bucks..
Whoever has the Kossman VMAX wheel send your pic in please..
Hmmm Kossman who has been doing wheels for over 20 yrs or a guy who is making wheels in his shed:ummm:
Hmm bolting a wheel up that doesnt need any modifictions for alignment
Or messing with alignment to save 100-200 bucks..
Whoever has the Kossman VMAX wheel send your pic in please..
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
maxcruiser
Well-Known Member
Hmmm Kossman who has been doing wheels for over 20 yrs or a guy who is making wheels in his shed
Isn't that how most vmax part suppliers started, in their garage - in fact, isn't that how Kossman started out also 20 or so years ago - if nobody took a chance on their parts when they first started, than we would not have much aftermarket support for the beloved max.
That's why a forum like this works, by people trying things and then reporting if it works or not - based on experience, not based on bullshit - 3 inch offset - ya ok now
Mike
Isn't that how most vmax part suppliers started, in their garage - in fact, isn't that how Kossman started out also 20 or so years ago - if nobody took a chance on their parts when they first started, than we would not have much aftermarket support for the beloved max.
That's why a forum like this works, by people trying things and then reporting if it works or not - based on experience, not based on bullshit - 3 inch offset - ya ok now
Mike
jedi-
Well-Known Member
Here's picture as requested. Nut was bigger than the stock hex contrary to my previous post as I was just going from memory. However provided that the locktab does its job that's all that matters.
I have no offset as per other picture.
I think some confusion surrounds the offset topic and it's not that difficult to fathom.
Using some fictitous numbers for example it might go something like this.
If a stock wheel was 6" wide and there was a 1/2" gap between the tyre (widest point) and the swingarm( using side left arm as datum). It follows that in order for a new wheel of say 8" width were to run on the same centre line as the stock one then the gap between the new tyre and the swing arm must now be MINUS 1/2". In other words it will be rubbing on the swingarm by 1/2"
Why? Because the sums say so.... from the center line of the 6" tyre it is 3" per side of center plus a 1/2" gap to the swing arm like I said previously.
So 3.5" from center to hitting the swingarm, but our new tyre is 8" in other words 4" either side of center. But we already know that that we only have 3.5" to the arm. So 4 is 1/2" bigger than 3.5 Duuhhhh.
So what do we do? Either notch the swingarm to allow the 1/2" of interference, shove the wheel to right by 1/2" or move it to allow clearance and leave it like that or move it to the right by desired amount and get some or all of the alignment back by lugging the swingarm over to the LEFT by using 2 x RH pivot bolts or modify the stock left pivot bolt to make it work.
When taking measurements between stock tyres and the new wheel/tyre DON'T rely on the width's marked on the tyres, MEASURE the two properly with a vernier caliper for example to make calculations. We are trying to work out the difference between the two and the stamped markings might not represent the exact tyre width's.
These are fictitious numbers not a real example.
If anyone has trouble understanding my garble, I'll draw it.
I have no offset as per other picture.
I think some confusion surrounds the offset topic and it's not that difficult to fathom.
Using some fictitous numbers for example it might go something like this.
If a stock wheel was 6" wide and there was a 1/2" gap between the tyre (widest point) and the swingarm( using side left arm as datum). It follows that in order for a new wheel of say 8" width were to run on the same centre line as the stock one then the gap between the new tyre and the swing arm must now be MINUS 1/2". In other words it will be rubbing on the swingarm by 1/2"
Why? Because the sums say so.... from the center line of the 6" tyre it is 3" per side of center plus a 1/2" gap to the swing arm like I said previously.
So 3.5" from center to hitting the swingarm, but our new tyre is 8" in other words 4" either side of center. But we already know that that we only have 3.5" to the arm. So 4 is 1/2" bigger than 3.5 Duuhhhh.
So what do we do? Either notch the swingarm to allow the 1/2" of interference, shove the wheel to right by 1/2" or move it to allow clearance and leave it like that or move it to the right by desired amount and get some or all of the alignment back by lugging the swingarm over to the LEFT by using 2 x RH pivot bolts or modify the stock left pivot bolt to make it work.
When taking measurements between stock tyres and the new wheel/tyre DON'T rely on the width's marked on the tyres, MEASURE the two properly with a vernier caliper for example to make calculations. We are trying to work out the difference between the two and the stamped markings might not represent the exact tyre width's.
These are fictitious numbers not a real example.
If anyone has trouble understanding my garble, I'll draw it.
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KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
Like I said before, you do great work. :worthy: your one yell of a machinist. That tire dosn't get anymore lined up.
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