No spark help

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skippgw2

Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2011
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Location
pensacola
I have a 1996 v max and up till I shipped the bike from overseas it was running like a top. But after being in a crate for 2 months void of oil and gas it will not fire up. It has a fully charged battery cranks just fine but does not fire.
Filled with fresh oil and gas, I removed the spark plugs and noticed it is getting fuel but no spark. Any help will be appreciated?
 
i forget what the safety procedures are, but i read somewhere in the forum someone suggesting pulling the spark boots and while cranking watch for sparks in from the coils. this could rule some stuff out.
 
I did test to see if I was getting spark from the plugs by pulling one and seeing if it fired. But it did not!

I have been looking around at all the posts and have tried many things from checking the ohms from the stator all at .7 ohms. To the pick up coil 102 ohms. I even fixed the crimp problem. Still nothing, according to the many posts I should not half to worry about the TCI unit because it is a 96'. I have also checked the clutch switch and the side stand switch. I'm running out of Ideas. I have an appointment at the repair shop next Thursday but I would love to call and cancel it.
 
When you tested that spark plug for spark, did you have it grounded firmly to the bike, or just hanging from the plug boot? Can't count how many times I've been fooled by this simple oversight over the years.
 
I feel stupid for saying this but do what hundreds before you have done. The little four wire relay that sits just in front of the TCI and is accessible from behind the left scoop and electronics panel. Cut the Black wire and start her up. Don't ask me how, don't ask me why. It was suggested with some of the most piss poor reason what it does but it seems like this is where so many end up after the mystery "no spark", intermittent spark situation. Keep the hate mail by the way.
 
I feel stupid for saying this but do what hundreds before you have done. The little four wire relay that sits just in front of the TCI and is accessible from behind the left scoop and electronics panel. Cut the Black wire and start her up. Don't ask me how, don't ask me why. It was suggested with some of the most piss poor reason what it does but it seems like this is where so many end up after the mystery "no spark", intermittent spark situation. Keep the hate mail by the way.
Click to expand...
Im interested in this fix, can someone elaborate on it?
Im not having problems but wonder what this wire is for.
 
It's for the starter relay and is only on early models.....until '92 I believe right Sean?

If the bike is in gear and stand is down it completes a ground and prevents ignitor from firing the coils... By cutting that ground your are bypassing that function so that the bike will run even when in gear and sidestand is down.
 
Thanks for your response, I disconnected the black wire from the connector, cutting the wrong wire would be bad. But still it does not start.
 
let's go through the haynes checklist:

  • ignition switch off?
  • kill switch off?
  • battery low voltage?
  • spark plugs dirty, defective?
  • spark plug caps or ht leads faulty?
  • spark plug caps not making good contact?
  • ignition control unit defective?
  • pick up coils defective?
  • ignition or kill switch shorted?
  • all wiring connection are clean, dry and tight?
  • wiring shorted or broken between:
    • ignition switch and kill switch or blown fuse?
    • ignition control unit and engine kill switch?
    • ignition control unit and ignition ht coils?
    • ignition ht coil and spark plugs?
    • ignition control unit and pick up coil(s)
if the bike went by boat, i wouldn't dismiss the possibility of corroded contacts (unless you forked out the dough for a hermetically sealed container?). perhaps the kill switch is defective? check for corroded contacts?
 
If you have a volt meter hook the leads up on battery and try to start. If voltage drops below 10 volts you won't have enough to allow coils to produce enough spark or none at all.
 
I have went through the bike and cleaned all contacts I could find Battery while cranking is at 11.2 volts so that's also not a problem.

ninjaneer some of the items you mentioned would not alow for the starter to crank. It cranks just fine but still nothing. I just don't understand if it was running like a top before shipment why nothing now?


  • ignition switch off? - No
  • kill switch off? - No
  • battery low voltage? - No 11.2 while cranking
  • spark plugs dirty, defective? - No new plugs 1 week before shipment
  • spark plug caps or ht leads faulty? - - Checked and seem good
  • spark plug caps not making good contact? - Checked and cleaned
  • ignition control unit defective? - Not sure how to check but it is a 96' so probably not bad.
  • pick up coils defective? - No ohms are within limits
  • ignition or kill switch shorted? - This would not allow the bike to crank
  • all wiring connection are clean, dry and tight? - Yes cleaned all
  • wiring shorted or broken between:
    • ignition switch and kill switch or blown fuse? - Bike cranks, all fuses good
    • ignition control unit and engine kill switch? - Good
    • ignition control unit and ignition ht coils? - Good
    • ignition ht coil and spark plugs? _ tight
    • ignition control unit and pick up coil(s) - Good
 
skippgw2 said:
You made me second guess myself so I went out and re did the test and still no spark.
Click to expand...

ok so now looking at the clymer. first off did you pull only one or all wires? if you did all four, then clymer thinks that if there was no spark at one or more of the plugs, there may be a problem in the input side of the ignition system or ignitor unit, sidestand switch, or neutral switch. if there is no spark at one spark plug only, the spark plug is probably faulty or there is a problem with the wire or plug cap. looking over clymer's ignition system troubleshooting steps ( i know you've already checked most of these, but am just gonna blindly list the steps because it's 4 in the morning and am not quite awake yet)

  • fuses
  • battery
  • plugs
  • resistance of each ignition coil
  • resistance of pickup coil
  • continuity of main switch
  • continuity of engine stop switch
  • continuity of neutral switch
  • continuity of sidestand switch
  • continuity of clutch switch
  • continuity of diode
  • output voltage of pressure sensor
after that clymer points at the ignitor unit.

dude, good luck. it sucks that the bike won't fire up. try to avoid that dealership--it's gonna suck your wallet dry.
 
Last edited:
Check for 12V power at the TCI. Perhaps corrosion somewhere in the keyswitch not allowing 12V everywhere there should be?
 
It seems that all my electrical checks are good meaning that it is looking more and more like my igniter unit. If I replace this with a dynatek 3000 will this solve my problem?
 
I forgot to check my coils and I have 0 reading on the secondary coil and it seems my plug wires have no continuity so I'm opting for the COPS mod to fix both problems. Any comments?
 
Are you sure that a bad coil and/or wire is the root problem? If so, then do the COPS! If not, maybe you should diagnose more before introducing another variable.

At any rate, just a note, it is unclear whether or not you elected to go with the Dynatec. If you do do the Dynatec, be mindful that you should lean to the conservative side and solder resistors in the power wires for the COPS. I think 88vmax has some COPS harnesses if you don't feel like making your own (and he makes them with the necessary resistor). Are you up to speed on the COPs mod (which ones to get, etc.?). If not I can help you zero in on the more useful threads and posts. After my fork upgrade, my COPs mod is next--have all the pieces just gotta find the time to do the puzzle ;-)

[hijack edit] hey you're from pensacola! my hometown is niceville :)
 
Problem solved! The little black box died. Installed a dynatec and I have my bike back. COPS mod is next.
 
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