2nd gear repair

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Rusty McNeil

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Well,

Pulled the motor out today, took me about 8 hours from start to splitting the cases, including numerous beer breaks, and a spin on the 'Busa 9not in that order) :biglaugh:

2nd gear is totally destroyed.

I'm including pictures of the main bearings and journals in case Sean see's this and cares to comment.

What do you think Sean, anything to be concerned aboout?

If so, can these be poor boyed by replacing the bearings without turning the crank?:ummm:
I only ask because I've done that in the past on some small block chevrolets when time and budget was short and was just trying to freshen up the thing while I was in there..not because there was a bearing failure...

Also took some pictures of the shift forks and drum, they look OK to me but I'm a little bit like a chicken watching a card trick when it comes to this. Not sure what I'm looking for.

I couldn't see any case damage that was obvious to me....hope I'm right:confused2:

Was also surprised to not find a case gasket between the sections, just sealant??
edit....of course there's not a gasket, the lower case serves as the main bearing caps among others, you couldn't use a gasket her e...I'm a dummy

Edit, I just went through the service manual on picking bearing sizes, it makes no sense. The diagram in my manual is calling the rod journals mains and the main journals rod journals. The way I see it there are four main journals and two rod journals (since the rods share two rods to one journal)
The case engraving doesn't look like whats in the book either, nor is it on the side of the case that it shows in the book?
Plus the ink stamps on my rods are nothing like what's in the book either....
Is there a better way to do this?

Thanks,

Rusty
 

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This is the situation when you have good oil pressure and spuned(a little) mian beraings. Typically central pair or outer pair is damaged and by the same time one pair is good - hope that make sense.
I dont have any good explenaion for that - I only suspect it may be wrong low end balancing.

Journals are damaged(a little tho) - IMHO if you still want to get good millage from that engine you need to replace the crank.

By the same time you may have the main bearings seats "rounded" -
I recommend to check them by inside dial gauge or with plastigauge(at least 4 mesurments, 90 degree spacing)


Theres always a "sealant only" beteween block halves, a thin film - always.
Exeption - ball bearings on crank - small 2T engines.


Try to find the bearings color code on "engine mount area" - after a while it becomes clear - was discussed on forum many times.


IMHO talk with Sean about good 1300 core to rebuilt.

About shift forks.
They may seems to be good but its important to understand the importance of fork width and quality of fork pin/the part that goes into shift drum.
You must verify that - to much axial play and new gears will be destroyed very quickly.


Oh and sorry, my name is Przemek - not Sean...
 
Personally, I think the crank and bearings are fine even with the copper wear showing. I'd probably just fix that trans and put it back together. To get it perfect you'd want to inspect everything like Prezmek stated. There aren't oversize/undersize bearings for these bikes though.

The trans is going to need two new gears since we can't repair teeth. There may be other gears cracked that aren't easily seen too. The trans shop will magnaflux the whole thing. I can't see nearly enough on the forks and drum. Those can be removed and shipped with the trans for inspection too.

Sean
 
i've got an 06 vmax and i am replacing second gear. i am planning on ordering yamaha part #[SIZE=-1]99999-01573-00[/SIZE]

has anyone used this kit before?
will it work for an 04?
what does the kit include?
what else do i need to complete the 2nd/5th gear repair?

thanks,
 
Since it's apart, undercut, big-bore & head work (big cams & Suzuki followers), courtesy of Under Pressure, Dania Beach FL. (Steve) Then ya gotta feed that stuff the fuel.

Sean I am sure is going to get you squared-away.
 

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im just worried about getting the bike fixed and riding normal. maybe i'll adjust the valves while im at it but im looking to finish it asap. any answers to my questions?
 
I lost 2nd gear a few months ago, and when I split the cases I found out that 3rd & 5th were almost gone too. Didn't have the money for a proper undercut set so I decided to swap the gearbox with a good 2nd hand one.
It's holding (for now) but I don't expect it to last more than 20,000 miles - hopefully by then I'll have a 2005 Vmax and this will become a doner/project bike

2nd%252C3rd%252C5th.JPG


If you're looking at spending that much money on new parts why not talk to Sean about his undercut transmission
 
You need more then one gear. It's also going to need a mating gear. Also suggested would be new shift forks. The drum will need to be inspected for wear to see if there is damage to the lobe. We do undercut transmissions to help make them stronger and shift better. We can usually save your gears but we undercut the entire trans.
 
yes, i know that you have to replace the male and female gear together.

john: my 26 and 28 tooth gears look like the ones you pictured. i will also replace the adjacent gears these slot up against.

one: i have inspected the shift forks and based on the testing protocol outlined by Yamaha, i am going to replace just the #1 shift fork as it has abnormal wear.

i am working on a friends bike and am going to install all new everything instead of trying to recut the gears as i don't believe the gears are saveable nor would it be worth all the effort i've put in just to try and save a couple dollars.
 
Might be cheaper to get the undercut... Id you are going to be buying new gears.... Talk to morley first... It might be the cheapest option....

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk 2
 
The undercut is not "cheaper" and going to save a few bucks. We do it right and you end up with a more durable and smoother shifting transmission. A number of guys on here have transmissions of ours and can attest to the quality of the work. Haven't found a gear yet that wasn't physically broken that we could not repair (hard weld and recut).

The undercut if not done correctly gets through the "crust" of the gear and though will work well at first it will not last very long before you have similar problems again.


Sean
 
Forgive me Sean i didn't mean to say it was cheaper overall.. But in the long run you can feel confident that you won't have it happen again.... More of an upgrade over stock. However ... It was gonna cost me 350-400 to replace the two gears ... So i felt the extra cash to have the undercut done was cheaper in the long run if you know what i mean......

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk 2
 
It was more of a comment posted for freelance. The undercut is the only way to go if you are going to the trouble of getting into the trans. BUT, most don't understand what the process is and why it is far better (when done right).
 
My tranny is starting to clunk when I put it in first gear and shift to second .I biught the bike with 38,000 miles and have put about 500 more .I hope the pistons and crank are ok with all the miles i have on it. How much do you think it will cost to get my max running great again?.
 
You could check this shift "segment" and see but it doesn't sound like that's the issue? Might even want to check the rear diff and even rear ujoint.

Sean
 
+1, just broken in.
Just broken in at 38,000.Do you think the tranny cant handle all this horse power?.When I start it on colder days at idle around 1000 rpm I hear a little knock but when it warms up it goes away .is this anything to worry about ?..
 
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