Barnett Carbon Fiber Clutch Disks

Discussion in 'Drivetrain' started by Lotsokids, Mar 14, 2019.

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  1. Mar 14, 2019 #1

    Lotsokids

    Lotsokids

    Lotsokids

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    Background: Evidently I'm hard on clutches. I ride aggressively and nail the throttle at almost every stoplight. This, of course means I go through a lot of clutch disks and rear tires... about 1 each per year. :confused:

    I just ordered a set of Barnett carbon fiber disks. Maybe they will last longer.
    I know... they will certainly last longer if I stop riding so aggressively.
    It's kind of like handing a prisoner a key, but he decides to just stay in jail. :D
     
  2. Mar 14, 2019 #2

    one2dmax

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    Let's see. We've not had a lot of luck with the Barnett Frictions
     
  3. Mar 14, 2019 #3

    sdt354

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    How about more clamping power? DD should do it, 2 new clutch springs with extra clamping strength. It won't be a picnic stopped in traffic, but you can put it in neutral while sitting.
     
  4. Mar 15, 2019 #4

    Lotsokids

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    I've done that on an FJ1200 a few years ago. I have big hands, but it was still difficult for a daily rider.
     
  5. Mar 15, 2019 #5

    sdt354

    sdt354

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    I like the DD, it grabs and doesn't slip. The glazing on the steels is kept to a minimum. I did use two well used diaphragm springs, which makes the pull manageable. I'm a lefty so that makes it easier too. And at long lights, I'll kick her into neutral frequently.
     
  6. Mar 15, 2019 #6

    one2dmax

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    DD works great even on big bore bikes
     
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  7. Mar 16, 2019 #7

    Traumahawk

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    I typically do the standard Yamaha disks, and DD mod. +1 for going into neutral for being stuck in traffic....etc.
     
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  8. Mar 16, 2019 #8

    Itgoes

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    I've heard very bad reports on the kevlar disks in a Gen 2. Multiple people put them in and took them out.......money and time wasted.

    Factory disks are always a safe bet but you need to increase clamping pressure.
    PCW sells a HD spring for the Gen 1 that works great. Not as hard to pull as the DD but clamps much better.
    That's a proven solution to extend the life of your clutch as is the DD.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
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  9. Mar 18, 2019 #9

    Lotsokids

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    PCW doesn't list them on their website. I tried calling them, but didn't go through.
    So I purchased an EBC spring - they advertise 10% stronger than stock. I might still DD, not sure at this point.
     
  10. Mar 18, 2019 #10

    Itgoes

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    Yeah, I saw that. PCW just a one man shop now-a-days.

    EBC should be very similar in performance.
     
  11. Mar 22, 2019 #11

    mabdcmb@yahoo.com

    mabdcmb@yahoo.com

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    Never tried Barnett in my vmax but did in a CR5 and found they didn't give the longevity of OEM Honda parts.

    DD holds like nobody's business. Almost too much IMO. I'd go with the stronger spring vs 2 OEM springs if I were to do it again.

    Swapping out the clutch master cylinder to a 14mm unit, or a radial unit GREATLY helps the hand when doing the DD mod. A swap to a ZX14 unit reduced the pull to near stock effort.
     
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  12. Mar 23, 2019 #12

    Fire-medic

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    My experience w/Barnett friction discs goes-back to the early 1970's. I bought them to replace the clutch in my Kawasaki Mach III 500 three-cyl. two-stroke. Anyone who's ridden one knows about the phrase, "coming-on the pipe," when the piston porting and the two-stroke would hit the range where the bike would accelerate like nothing-else, stock. It was great for wheelies in the lower gears, and the upper gears too, if you have someone foolish-enough to accept a pillon-position there.

    I installed a Barnett friction disc set. Yes, they worked well for grabbing, but they also would lock-up when the bike sat for any length of time. The first time you engaged gears, and released the clutch, the bike would stall-out because the clutch pack would still be stuck-together. I quickly realized that the action necessary was to hold the front brake-on while releasing the clutch, which would stall the engine, but release the clutch pack, so the clutch lever would work once-again. A minor inconvenience, and it wouldn't happen if you stalled the bike while riding it, and had to kick-start it immediately.

    Of course, that was a long-time ago. For my Yamahas, I prefer the OEM clutch friction discs.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2019
  13. Apr 12, 2019 #13

    THMAX98

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    Boy you showing your age lol,i bet you wish you still had that old mach III,but like most i bet its crashed
     

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