Max, the diagnosis is the problem mentioned, ("I have a problem shifting," and my pointing to the two major components involved in performing the shifting into neutral) and then the likely fix for it. While all those things you mentioned can affect shifting, I bet a pound for a porridge it's either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder, rather than missing star-segment pins on the end of the shift drum, or sloppy shifter ball-and-socket pieces, nor aftermarket levers (pronounced,
lee'-vurs
). Yes, occasionally a change in oil has shown to be beneficial, usually when the owner was skimping on providing his ride with appropriate motorcycle oil by using current formulations of low-viscosity automobile oils which do-not contain the proper friction modifiers for wet clutches. That's why I always mention to the members who haven't contributed their information, to
give us the year of your bike in your signature line, so we have a better understanding of your starting point, or if the engine's been swapped, what year chassis, and what year engine? The other part of that, is a location for the member so someone nearby may assist, or can make a quality referral.
I am always impressed that the suggestions
MaxMidnight offers are thoughtful and well laid-out and his emphasis on diagnosing things. However, even the references sometimes refer to 'replace the suspect unit with one of well-known operational capacity,' or something similar. Hence why Sean Morley's travelling electrical components kit solves so-many issues for owners. I'm not an advocate for artillery-use to solve issues, but for instance, most of us don't possess the electrical aptitude to search on a PC board for failed components, and then to effect a repair. Once you've progressed as-far as you can then sometimes it's
'replace the suspect unit with one of well-known operational capacity.' In the case of, "I cannot disengage properly my bike from being in-gear, to find neutral," the logical approach is to look at what controls your ability to shift.
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