Can't Idle - Full story.

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vmaxaviator

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Joined
Nov 22, 2009
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Location
Houston
Hi all,

(Please forgive if I’m not posting this is the right section)

This may be a little long-winded, but I want to try to provide all the details.

I have a 97 vmax , which sat stored in my garage for almost 6 month. Last summer, after trickle charging the battery over night, I choked it, started it, and let it sit for a couple of minutes to warm up. After removing the choke, the engine idled down and then puttered out. It re-started with ease but would not idle. If left to idle, it would again just stutter and then die. I tried riding it anyway, thinking it would clear up, but at each stop sign or red light, it would idle down and die. The only way to keep the engine running was to hold the throttle to about 2k rpms.

Knowing this a problem better left to someone with knowledge (not me), I hauled it to my local yami shop for diagnosis and repair. After about a week at the Yami shop, the service manager called me and asked me to come to his shop. After arriving, he explained that the carbs would require cleaning and new seals. He stated that, as of lately, this was a common problem with all carbureted motorcycles, and they have been swamped with this problem. He further explained that higher levels of ethanol, used in today’s fuel, was contributing to varnishing and a breakdown of seals. After a quote of $400 plus dollars for the repair, I signed the ticket to approve the work and waited.

Roughly a week later, I received a call stating that the bike was ready to roll. While paying for the service, the service manager advised that I run a higher octane fuel and try to run at least 4 full tanks of fuel through it as quickly as I can. I rode it home with no apparent problems. I rode every day for the next week and all seemed fine. At some point during the second tank of gas, the stuttering began to re-occur at each red light or stop sign. It got so bad that unless I was 2k or higher on the rpms, it would die.

I took it back to the Yami shop and explained that the problem had returned. The service manager said, “No problem, we’ll take care of it.” I left my bike at the shop for another week. When I went to pick it up the second time. I asked about the serviced performed to correct the problem. I was told that they cleaned the carbs again, but this time, they also drained and cleaned the fuel tank. While talking, the service manager received a call back to his department and excused himself. It was late, the shop was closing, and I didn’t want to bother the guy with more questions, so I left. (This was on Friday afternoon) Again, I rode it home with no problems.

I woke Saturday to take a morning ride and at the very first stop sign, the bike begin to putter and stutter. I tried to rev it out on a straight-away, hoping it would clear up, but I was back to the same issues with each stop.

Monday morning I received a phone call from the Yami service manager asking who I paid when I picked up the bike. I told him who took my money and handled the service ticket three weeks ago, but on Friday, I did not pay anyone. To which he replied, “Mr so & so, you owe us $435.00 for this service, and we need to get that taken care of today!” I guess “We’ll take care of it” meant “We’ll take care of it, as long as you pay us again.”

I tried to argue the fact that I had just paid for this problem to be repaired, but he still felt that I owed them the money and had no interest in doing the right thing. I drove to the shop, in my truck, because my bike still won’t run. I asked for a copy of the service ticket and told them I will get back with them. After comparing the two itemized service tickets, I realized that the first ticket, the one I had originally paid for 3 weeks ago, had no remarks regarding the fuel tank, but the second ticket did. I called the store manager to discuss the matter with him. While discussing the unpaid balance, I asked the store manager to explain the steps taken during this type of service. As he listed each step, I heard him say drain and clean the fuel tank. I stopped him and asked him to compare the service tickets. I pointed out that draining and cleaning the fuel tank was not listed on the first ticket. At that moment, he sounded akin to my vmax, as he stuttered and puttered he way to stating, “I’ll have to call you back.”

Long story short, they still want the money, and my bike was not repaired. I refused and can no longer do business there. Considering how much money I've spent at this place; a vmax, two wave runners, a trailer, life jackets, helmets, misc parts, etc. I'm not quite sure how they were doing me any favors to begin with.

I took my bike to another motorcycle shop and explained every detail of what occurred. The mechanic quoted my $100 even to try to correct the problem. He called me 4 days later and says he can’t figure it out: Still no resolve!

So my Vmax sits in the garage, still unable to idle. If anyone has suggestions, I would love to hear them.

This is my second Vmax, and I just found this forum, what a newb!

Thanks,
V
 
Was the fuel filter replaced? Did they blow out the fuel inlet net in each carb? When draining the float bowls, was the fuel clean each time? Were the jet blocks completely disassembled?
 
vmaxaviator, sorry to hear of your plight. You'll get some great help in this forum, if you're at least a bit mechanically inclined. Stuff like this is exactly why dealers get a bad rep, especially with a VMax.

My only suggestion (then I'll hang up and listen), is head to your local Auto Zone and grab a couple cans of Seafoam and and add at least 1 oz/gallon to your tank. It can help remove varnish from your fuel system. It's a cheap, and safe possible partial solution.

Tom
 
doesn't the shotgun help with the idle circuit mark? maybe try that?


V,

does it idle with the choke one? what is your idle set to? can you make it idle without any throttle at the highest setting of the idle control (or less even)?

did you ensure the shop sync'd the carbs?
 
Sounds like the PAJ1 is plugged again. I'm sure the floats are set like shit, PAJ1's plugged, and someone not intimate with the bikes screwing them up worse. Hopefully they didn't try to use any aftermarket parts to fix it during the rebuild (even though they are a dealer I have seen this done).

A replacement of the filter should be first thing. Then set that other stuff. Either your mechanic or you can get the info on how to do it on here. A few guys (myself and a few others) can clean and setup your carbs for you too for a fee (I'm probably one of the more expensive guys). We usually test your carbs on one of our bikes before they leave.

I would agree the fees should not need to be paid but they could pursue you and even call the police for theft of services. The suggestion would be to pay it in protest (written right on the paperwork) then go right down to the small claims court to sue them for the money back. I am sure that will give them a nice wake up call.

Sean
 
Wow, some speedy replies here! So glad I found this place. Even the empathy instills a peace of mind.

maleko89, I’ll have my wife pull the receipt from her filing system: I get lost in there. Anyway, I’ll respond with the list of services this afternoon. I remember the service manager explaining that some kind of permanent factory screws were replaced. Not sure if that indicates anything at all, just additional details.

Jayhawk, Glad you mentioned the Seafoam. I’ve already read several threads that refer to this stuff. I know the last guy I brought it to poured in some kind of fuel stabilizer and suggested that I continue to use it. I can’t recall the name of the stuff at the moment. I thought he said it was marine application, but not sure. I’ll go get the Seafoam today.

gamorg02, 12 or 20 gauge? Something like an 8 shot or just go straight for the slug? (sorry if you’re serious, I’ve not a clue about a shotgun to idle circuit method)
Yes it will idle with the choke on. That was how I managed to get it home on more than one occasion. I can’t say for sure if it will idle with the screw set toa higher rpm, but I can test it if you want. I’ll have to check the service ticket to see if there is any mention of carb syncing.

one2dmax, I didn’t want to go overboard with details, but they tried the criminal route. A detective even called me. After speaking with one of the DA’s here in Houston, It was labeled a civil matter and dropped. Many many years ago, I sued a car dealership for the same type of double jeopardy service scam. I handled everything myself in civil court and even won, but dood, what a PITA.

I should also mention that once I accelerate past the lower rpm range, where it stutters and wants to die, it really lights up and wants to fly. The only mod, is a 4-1 Kerker, but it ran fine for years with this set-up.
 
I had a different carbed bike doing this about 4x months ago. Ran on choke, but rough. Without the choke, it wouldn't idle at all, and I had to keep it revved up to prevent it from dying.

I couldn't get it working using a mix of sea foam, so I completely drained the fuel, and poured in a can of sea foam straight. I ran it for a bit to get it in the system, then let it sit for a couple of days with the sea foam in, then ran it again, and did this for about a week.

Then I ran it all through until it died. Then I put in new gas, and the thing runs like a champ, without having to pull the carbs.

I just ran a straight can of seafoam through the max too, while it was in various states of disassembly.

Give it a shot. It's not going to hurt anything, and it can really help clean up the varnishing which is the likely problem. The varnish is like a thin plastic film and can really screw things up.
 
gamorg02, 12 or 20 gauge? Something like an 8 shot or just go straight for the slug? (sorry if you?re serious, I?ve not a clue about a shotgun to idle circuit method)
Yes it will idle with the choke on. That was how I managed to get it home on more than one occasion. I can?t say for sure if it will idle with the screw set toa higher rpm, but I can test it if you want. I?ll have to check the service ticket to see if there is any mention of carb syncing.

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm
 
Geek_Law, I plan on grabbing some Seafoam on the way home. Guess I’ll get a case of the stuff now.

Rhoy Carter, I’m on the NW side. Thanks for the group site. I’ll sign up.

gamorg02, good Lord Man! I just read someone else describe my exact problem. Thanks for the link! BTW, I like the disclaimer at the bottom, “If you have any doubt, seek a trained Yamaha service professional.” Painfully obvious: I’m working bassackwards here.
 
It looks like it will be after Thanksgiving before I can tackle this. I appreciate all of you for your input. I will report back when I'm done.
 
Hi all,
I went to work on the Shotgun fix, but can't get the idle mixture screws out. They are backed out all the way and I am pumping 120 psi down PAJ1 - nothin!. Any ideas/alternatives?

Greg
 
I just did the shotgun to my max. 3 of the mixture screws came out easily with the air, but the 4th one didn't move at first. I finally realized that I wasn't making a good seal with the end of my air hose going into the PAJ1. Laughed at myself, then continued on. If the screw is completely backed out, there is nothing to hold it in.

Let us know how it goes!
 
One other thing considering the poor job done by the shop...if you are going through the shotgun process, you need to also sync the carbs with the issues you are having. Very easy process as long as you have the correct tool. If you don't have a sync tool, get one. I would say that sync'd carbs are the most neglected part of tuning and maintaining a bike with multiple carbs..a lot of folks don't even know what it means, much less actually doing it.

Also, I have worked in shops where synching carbs was "sold" as a service, but was never actually done. I walked away from one place after having a lengthy debate with my shop manager over what it means to do someone RIGHT by actually performing the work the customer requested. Don't trust your receipt even it if says the carbs were sync'd.
 
Thanks DB,
I'll try to ensure a seal with some rubber hose. Looks like I'll have to drain the fuel tank too. Even with my garage door open and a shop fan running, the fumes overwhelmed me, but it wasn't the gas so much as it was the fuel stabilizer that's been in there for months.

Where's a good place to look for the carb sync tool? It sounds like an important part of the process. I wish there were more shops ran with your mindset.
 
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