Carb sync help

[assassinx1]

Hey guys I got very frustrated using a single vacuum gauge adjusting my carbs. I bought a real set of gauges. What I found is the left side carbs fluctuate around 15 inches of vac. The right side are about 10. I'm adjusting them at the screws that then throttle rods are connected to is this correct?

 

[Maxine]

You sync 1&2 together, then you sync 3&4 together, then and only then do you sync the right bank(3&4) with the left bank(1&2). Its covered in more detail in the manual, but that is the condensed version of what you are doing.
Regards,
R

 

[dannymax]

-Did you install dampers (restrictors) in the gauge lines? Sounds like undampened vacuum.

-Throttle rods? Throttle is cable driven to a bell crank on the left side, connected to the right side by linkage.

 

[[email protected]]

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3959

 

[Fire-medic]

Have you tensioned the carb chains? You can static-set them in a pinch, but they really need to be dynamically-tensioned, commonly referred-to as the "Charles Atlas" method, if you are a baby-boomer & used to read your comic books or "Boy's Life" all the way through.:biglaugh:
http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history-archaeology/Muscle-Man.html?device=iphone

 

[dannymax]

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3959

Mark-o!! Yer diaphragm cover allen bolts don't match!! :surprise::surprise::surprise:

DUDE..........:ummm::ummm::ummm:

:rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:

 

[SpecOps13]

After you have gone through once, you can go back and tweak for tighter results...

Good Luck,

 

[assassinx1]

Have you tensioned the carb chains? You can static-set them in a pinch, but they really need to be dynamically-tensioned, commonly referred-to as the "Charles Atlas" method, if you are a baby-boomer & used to read your comic books or "Boy's Life" all the way through.:biglaugh:
http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history-archaeology/Muscle-Man.html?device=iphone

The rods I was referring too are the ones in-between the carbs not the cable, the problem is when I touch the adjustment screws the idle changes but the vacuums readings for the life of me won't match. Meaning the left side carbs will match at about 15. And the right side carbs I can get to 10. But I can't get both sides to match. I'm waiting until I get my sync tool to try it again.

 

[RaWarrior]

There's one bolt on the left side and two on the right. The single left and rear right balance that side to each other. The front right will balance the left two to the right two.

So once you get the left two close, and the right two close, then fiddle with the front right screw and they should balance toward each other. Make sure you blip the throttle after each adjustment to "settle" the screws.

10 and 15 seems a bit high for inHg. When I did mine, I would get all four to match at 7-8 inHg. Typically the best I could get was all four between 7 and 8, I could never get them all to be precisely the same, but all within 1 mmHg was possible.

 

[naughtyG]

The rods I was referring too are the ones in-between the carbs not the cable, the problem is when I touch the adjustment screws the idle changes but the vacuums readings for the life of me won't match. Meaning the left side carbs will match at about 15. And the right side carbs I can get to 10. But I can't get both sides to match. I'm waiting until I get my sync tool to try it again.

That's right - you're adjusting the spring'd screws between the carbs. On the left there is one screw - it adjusts the balance of vacuum between the two left carbs.
One the right there are two screws - one adjusts the balance between the two right carbs, and the other the balance between the left pair and the right pair.

I wouldn't worry too much about what the actual reading is - the important bit is that they are all balanced. So one your left carbs are matched (say around 15 on your scale) and your right carbs are matched (say at 10), you then adjust the other screw on the right and all four should end up with the same readind, in your case most prolly between 12 and 13.

You really need a 4-gauges tool or something like a Carbtune that shows all four levels of vacuum to get it right.

 

[95spfldmax]

As Danny mentioned, make sure you have dampeners in and in the correct orientation. After your new sync tool arrives, if they are still very bouncy it could be a problem with your idle circuits. I had the same issue until I got my idle circuits completely cleaned and all the little parts that are supposed to be in there "happy".

 

[assassinx1]

Ok I didnt realize i had to restrict my gauge. Figured out the bouncy readings...also figures out why my vaccume was so off be tween the two banks. I didnt realise the vboost was vaccum controlled by cylincer 1. when I was doing my reading and switched to the other side I was actuly turning vboost back on. Ok trying today to adjust everything lets see what happens.