clutch bleeding problem

[gleno]

the best way I have found for difficult hydro fluid is to use a syringe and small hose I picked up at the auto parts store

1. attach small hose to syringe
2. open clutch (or brake) reservoir, empty fluid.
3. fill syringe with fluid of choice
4. loosen the bleeder screw and attach hose/ syringe
5. open bleeder up, close syringe/ pump fluid through line. Do this until the fluid coming into the reservoir is clear/ clean.
6. empty the fluid reservoir of the fluid
7. pump one more syringe through the lines, close the bleeder and disconnect the syringe
8. top off reservoir and close it up.

Since bubbles try to rise, you are getting them to work with you instead of against you.

I do have a regular bleeder set up, but this works EVERY time on every type of vehicle. I spent 3 days trying to bleed the air out of my Jeep Cherokee clutch the old way. nothing worked until I tried this. this set up is also much cheaper

Thanks for the tip Dave.

I had the same problem as NaughtyG yesterday and used this method along with Naughty's idea of Teflon tap around the bleed valve thread and it worked really well.

Used way less fluid to bleed he system and it is much quicker.

My problem was the same as Naughty's.

After a thorough cleaning and re-assembly of the clutch master internals, the master cylinder valve would not return to the fully decompressed position after I compressed the clutch lever. This prevents the plunger from travelling far enough back to release air trapped in the master and upper clutch line.

Your technique forces the plunger fully back and blows the air out of the line. Really good result.

This probably means the plunger buckets have passed their use by date and have swelled and softened causing them to bind in the master cylinder bore. I'll order some new one's

 

[Redbone]

One quick question about bleeding and rebuilding; can you rebuild a MC and not have to rebleed the system afterwards?
I think it would be a good idea to rebleed anyway but not sure as I have never rebuilt a MC before. I have the parts on order to do both MC while I have my engine out and upgrading my brakes to Busa calipers.

 

[one2dmax]

No, when you take apart the M/C or Slave to rebuild/replace you open up the system.

Sean

 

[dannymax]

One quick question about bleeding and rebuilding; can you rebuild a MC and not have to rebleed the system afterwards?
I think it would be a good idea to rebleed anyway but not sure as I have never rebuilt a MC before. I have the parts on order to do both MC while I have my engine out and upgrading my brakes to Busa calipers.

Brian, I don't see the clutch slave mentioned....are you going to rebuild it also?

 

[Redbone]

Brian, I don't see the clutch slave mentioned....are you going to rebuild it also?

Yes sir, I'm going to do the slave as well once I get the engine back from Sean. unk:

 

[lightninggrant]

the best way I have found for difficult hydro fluid is to use a syringe and small hose I picked up at the auto parts store

1. attach small hose to syringe
2. open clutch (or brake) reservoir, empty fluid.
3. fill syringe with fluid of choice
4. loosen the bleeder screw and attach hose/ syringe
5. open bleeder up, close syringe/ pump fluid through line. Do this until the fluid coming into the reservoir is clear/ clean.
6. empty the fluid reservoir of the fluid
7. pump one more syringe through the lines, close the bleeder and disconnect the syringe
8. top off reservoir and close it up.

Since bubbles try to rise, you are getting them to work with you instead of against you.

I do have a regular bleeder set up, but this works EVERY time on every type of vehicle. I spent 3 days trying to bleed the air out of my Jeep Cherokee clutch the old way. nothing worked until I tried this. this set up is also much cheaper

Thank You so much for this info.
Worked great for me.

Grant