I hate it so much I just pull the engine to do it. Takes me an hour to get the engine out.
Sean
Sean
First valve adjust questions
- Thread starter coffee_brake
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coffee_brake
Well-Known Member
This would be so much easier if I had a lift, and some more lights...and a second Vmax to ride while this one is down....
Installing the Napa thermostat while the coolant's out, before the GA heat beins this spring.
Installing the Napa thermostat while the coolant's out, before the GA heat beins this spring.
coffee_brake
Well-Known Member
OK How do I use the tool? I can't seem to get the tool to make the lifters go down so I can get at the shims.
Am I supposed to be able to lift the tool up with my hands? or do I put something on the end of it for leverage? I've tried it both ways and it's not working.
All the exhaust are in spec, but almost all the intake are just a tiny bit too tight (the feeler gauge that fits in there is too small to be in spec).
The Clymers says to rotate the lifters so the notches on them face each other, and lift up with the tool and grab out the shims. Does that valve's piston need to be at TDC for this (yeah I tried that and still can't get it)?
If I use a deep-well socket over the end of the tool for leverage, I can get the lifters to go down just a little bit but I can't get the shims out.
Sure appreciate all the help so far, really couldn't do it without ya'll's advice....
Am I supposed to be able to lift the tool up with my hands? or do I put something on the end of it for leverage? I've tried it both ways and it's not working.
All the exhaust are in spec, but almost all the intake are just a tiny bit too tight (the feeler gauge that fits in there is too small to be in spec).
The Clymers says to rotate the lifters so the notches on them face each other, and lift up with the tool and grab out the shims. Does that valve's piston need to be at TDC for this (yeah I tried that and still can't get it)?
If I use a deep-well socket over the end of the tool for leverage, I can get the lifters to go down just a little bit but I can't get the shims out.
Sure appreciate all the help so far, really couldn't do it without ya'll's advice....
You do two valves at a time...either the exhaust or intakes for each cylinder. Install the tool between the two valves. You'll notice the tool has a ramp. Now, take a 32 mm socket and turn the crank. You'll need to remove the inner stator cover. There are two allen bolts for that. As you turn the crank, the J tool will gradually depress the buckets. It'll eventually lock so you can't turn anymore. Now, use a pick tool to remove the shims. There are two slots per bucket I believe.
BTW, no way you can get the buckets down manually...even with leverage it's very tough.
BTW, no way you can get the buckets down manually...even with leverage it's very tough.
coffee_brake
Well-Known Member
Well damn. The clymers didn't say anything about turning the crank with the tool in there.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I had no idea, I thought if I used any force I may break the tool or mess up the lifters.
OK, I know what to do now.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I had no idea, I thought if I used any force I may break the tool or mess up the lifters.
OK, I know what to do now.
coffee_brake
Well-Known Member
The tool is in there and seems to be locked like you said, I don't want to put any more pressure on the wrench.
Once I get the shims out, do I turn the crank backwards (clockwise) to release the tool?
Once I get the shims out, do I turn the crank backwards (clockwise) to release the tool?
No, you have to leave the tool in there until you replace the shims. Never turn the cam on an empty bucket. You could damage one of them. What you need to do, is create a matrix of your valves. Measure the clearance, remove shims and check number, and put 'em back. On the matrix, write down the clearance, shim and desired shim next to each valve representation. Make sure you mic or use a caliper to verify each shim thickness. For example, a 262 shim should measure 2.62 mm.
coffee_brake
Well-Known Member
coffee_brake
Well-Known Member
They are during normal running, yes. I see your tool (huh-huh) and you don't have it engaged on the bucket. Turn your crank clockwise to fully engage the tool.
Click on this then go to the engine maintenance page. You'll see how to install the tool and the entire procedure to checking/replacing shims. I have some notes at home too that I'll send you.
http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/VMX1...0&bcsi_scan_filename=VMX12-Service-Manual.pdf
Click on this then go to the engine maintenance page. You'll see how to install the tool and the entire procedure to checking/replacing shims. I have some notes at home too that I'll send you.
http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/VMX1...0&bcsi_scan_filename=VMX12-Service-Manual.pdf
coffee_brake
Well-Known Member
Can I turn the crank backwards (clockwise) so I can get the tool out?
(Going to your link now)
(Going to your link now)
Yep, it can go either way.
coffee_brake
Well-Known Member
Thanks Maleko, the diagram showed me how I was turning the tool the wrong way and how to align it with the cam lobes.
All done with that part, borrowing the correct shims tomorrow.
Thanks again for the help, I was really lost on that part.
All done with that part, borrowing the correct shims tomorrow.
Thanks again for the help, I was really lost on that part.
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
Now that is something I would love to see and hell even bet on!! I am sure you have pulled more engines then I have,, and I dont think I could even drop an engine out of a VMAX in 2HRS from start to finish.
If you can thats pretty impressive you need to be on some NHRA top fuels team tearing K&B Fuely engines down between rounds
Sorry, it can be done - lol!
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
:cheers: Well your the man! Guess I have just been to southernized and move to slow.
"Work Smart not Hard"
LOL, I was born in Georgia but thankfully lost my "drawl" before I could remember.
1 hour is really pushing it but it can be done. 2 hours is still fast for even an experienced mechanic. It's still easier in my opinion then trying to adjust the dang things in the chassis.
Sean
1 hour is really pushing it but it can be done. 2 hours is still fast for even an experienced mechanic. It's still easier in my opinion then trying to adjust the dang things in the chassis.
Sean
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
Yeah doing a valve adjustment in the frame sucks! Once you learn the lil tricks of things that you need to remove its not to bad, the first time can be fusterating..
I guess the worst part is skinning the shit out of the valve covers.. Just wait until you go and put the valve covers back on and the gasket falls out.. Ok here is a trick when ya get there..
Permatext High Tac Spray.
Clean the Valve covers with soap and water.
Get a few q tips and clean the groove where the gaskets sit.. use the q tips with 99% Alcohol on the q tip to remove any oil residue.
Spray the gaskets. Let em sit for 3-5 mins in 75-85 F
Place the gaskets in the valve cover
Wait about 15 mins
And Presto your gaskets are pretty much glued in..
You can also use
Monkey Snot by 3M (Weather Stripping Glue)
Have fun!!
coffee_brake
Well-Known Member
Let's don't even think about how slow my newbie, sourthern-born attempts are.... It took hours and hours and hours just to get to the valves.
But I'd like to know from the experienced mechanics:
All of the exhaust valves were in spec. But 7 of the 8 intake valves were tight (the in-spec .004" feeler wouldn't fit at all, but the .003" feeler fit easily, time after time). Is this normal with wear?
Also, when I pulled the shims, most of them were kinda worn-looking, they didn't look like I think they would if they had never been switched out somewhere along the line. Yet the gasketing material was so clean, there was so little dried "squish" of black rubber at the seam, that I wonder how or when or if the valves were ever adjusted in the 30k miles the bike ran before I got it.
How do these things go? Is there anything I can look for to determine how this bike was maintained while the motor's still open?
But I'd like to know from the experienced mechanics:
All of the exhaust valves were in spec. But 7 of the 8 intake valves were tight (the in-spec .004" feeler wouldn't fit at all, but the .003" feeler fit easily, time after time). Is this normal with wear?
Also, when I pulled the shims, most of them were kinda worn-looking, they didn't look like I think they would if they had never been switched out somewhere along the line. Yet the gasketing material was so clean, there was so little dried "squish" of black rubber at the seam, that I wonder how or when or if the valves were ever adjusted in the 30k miles the bike ran before I got it.
How do these things go? Is there anything I can look for to determine how this bike was maintained while the motor's still open?
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
If I am wanting to know if an engine has been opened. I focus on the hardware."SOMETIMES". Wrench marks are left on the shoulders of a bolt, and look for any wear on the inside of hex screws. Some people use silicone,, wrong hardware used, missing washer etc. Sloppy mechanics will leave trails that they have monkied around.
Wear marks on the shims.... hmmm I dont know how yours looked, depends on the oil, how often it was changed, did the person rev it up as soon as the engine was started.. all these things add to engine wear. I know my shims all looks good with very little marks but hell my engines dont last but an avg of 15K miles.
Wear marks on the shims.... hmmm I dont know how yours looked, depends on the oil, how often it was changed, did the person rev it up as soon as the engine was started.. all these things add to engine wear. I know my shims all looks good with very little marks but hell my engines dont last but an avg of 15K miles.
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