Fork clunk when braking 2 up.

[Vincent Maxwell Ribaldry]

I took my daughter for a ride on the max and the front fork felt like it was bottoming out when stopping (hearing a clunk). She is maybe around 120#, I'm 250#. Is this much weight pushing the suspension to it's limits or could I have a front suspension issue?

I also raised the bike in the rear about an inch with zrx1200 socks.

Forks are stock length 34.5" from the axle center to to of cap on fork, no info on the fork internals.

Sean

 

[tothemax93]

Was it just a noise or did it feel like it really bottomed.

 

[Vincent Maxwell Ribaldry]

Felt like it bottomed out. I wasn't aware the forks were air adjustable. Just got done putting my new gators on and found that out. More research to do.

Sean

 

[Redbone]

Go easy with the air pressure; max pressure is around 15psi, past that you risk blowing out a fork seal should you hit a large Michigan pothole or frost heave. Stock forks were pretty anemic when I first started to ride my '92 (my weight then ~270#) and would nearly bottom with stock brake setup and HH pads. The addition of progressive springs (Racetech is another option) made all the difference. Sean Morley is the one to contact when you need the springs.

 

[Vincent Maxwell Ribaldry]

Won't hold any air pressure. Guess I'm looking at work on the front end. I guess if I'm going to get the most bang for my buck should I go with progressive springs or new springs and emulators? I am clueless when ure comes to forks. Never researched anything on them before the last 15 minutes. Guess I need to start liking at prices now.

Sean

 

[Vincent Maxwell Ribaldry]

Lots of guessing going on.

Sean

 

[Redbone]

Did you catch as to where the air was escaping from? Hopefully not from the fork seals, which I think would be your worse case scenario. I don't use any air pressure at all in my forks, the air pressure only fine tunes the ride anyways. You more than likely just need a o-ring or two to seal up at the top of the fork if the fork seals are ok.
Fork springs couldn't be easier to install: 1) securely support the bike under the engine with the front wheel just off the ground. 2) remove fork caps (there will be just a slight bit of pressure). 3) pull the old springs out. 4) install the new springs. 5) put fork caps back on. I would suggest that you replace the fork oil with recommended amount and weight of oil. There are write ups on here that detail the process. The oil change process is easier done with the forks off the bike but to change the springs it is not necessary.
Sean Morley has a video that that I'll post up in a minute.
Progressive Suspension: http://www.progressivesuspension.com/forkspringsmetric/index.html Fork spring installation: http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pdfs/forkSprings/3055.pdf

Race Tech: http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Yamaha/VMX1200 V-Max/1993-2007 Also read about the Gold Valves which are dampening valves.

Ricor: http://store.ricorshocks.com/yamaha_s/45.htm I use these with Progressive lowering springs.

 

[Redbone]

Fork removal:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWjsB0eHcFo

Here Sean reassembles the fork which may not be needed for your forks but it also details installing the spring and making sure it is filled with oil to the proper level (Note he said 4.8" and that the spring was not yet installed) then reinstalling the fork leg onto the bike. I use a ruler but Sean method is easier if you have or make the tool.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKKdbwMQ5fY

I hope this helps you out Sean!

 

[Vincent Maxwell Ribaldry]

I didn't, my ears don't work so well. I'll need some snoop. Thanks for the info, something to dig into.

Sean

 

[Vincent Maxwell Ribaldry]

Well no leaks whet the uppers meet the lowers. And no leaks at the top. Not sure where all the air pressure is going.

Sean

 

[Traumahawk]

What are you using to check the tire pressure? Is it a "normal" air pressure gauge? When you use a "normal" gauge, when you put it on, or take it off, that little "pfft" of air, can actually be a couple of pounds of pressure lost. I had the same problem when I first got my Vmax. I wound up getting something like this from ebay....Progressive Suspension 0-30 lb Gauge-Mounted Air Pump...and it quit. A tool like this, will not allow you to lose any air when its disconnected.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PROGRES...Parts_Accessories&hash=item417e426206&vxp=mtr

Hope this helps.

 

[Vincent Maxwell Ribaldry]

Thanks, maybe that's all I need. I am using a reg gauge.

Sean

 

[sdt354]

Check the shrader valve too.

 

[johnpclynch]

I get an intermittent clunk from around the head bearing when braking & hit a bump (not enough to bottom it out)
it used to be alot worse but I tightened the bearings a fraction and really clamped down on the top nut

 

[Miles Long]

Thanks, maybe that's all I need. I am using a reg gauge.

Sean

My two cents -
Installing aftermarket springs is probably the most recommended initial modification to improve handling of the Max, as well as being relatively inexpensive. You will notice the difference immediately, especially since you are on the heavier side.
As for the air retention problem, many folks eliminate the system completely, after installing a.m. springs, I chose to keep mine, after putting in Progressive springs.
I have no idea why Yamaha did away with the manifold feature when they upgraded the front forks. SUCH a pain to add/remove/balance air pressure, with the individual valves.
I fabricated a manifold system, c/w a pressure gauge, out of 1/4" plastic tubing and 1/8"brass fittings. It has worked well. Using a regular bicycle pump, air pressure is easily controlled, and is automatically balanced because of the manifold.
Progressive Suspension used to sell a universal manifold system, for $25.00, but it was discontinued years ago.
Cheers!