fork seals

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86max

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thought i might ask would you replace seals if they leave a slight mark on the forks after they have been depressed or only if they show or have evidence of actually leaking oil? thanks
 
Its up to you but the only way that I have ever seen to correct this besides replacement is to take a real thin piece of shim stock or I have seen popcan used. And gently work it under the seal and then around the whole way.Sometimes a piece of crap can get in there and cause a small leak.Motocross bikes - bigtime. Dirt,mud, bugs?
 
My forks with 2400 miles on them leave a little sumpin behind too... I think it's the nature of the beast. Nothing for me to worry about though. Looks like some one sprayed a rag with WD40 and then wiped it on the fork. :confused2:

My SV forks are coming out and I am replacing the seals this winter but the right one is actually LEAKING oil and it will drip down the fork leg.

Find some old film negative and make it look like a Nike Swoosh and put that in behind the seal and clean the crud out...

Motion Pro also makes one just for this as well... :thumbs up:
 
speaking of forks.....theres no drain screw for fork oil ?.... forks have to come apart to drain and change ?
 
speaking of forks.....theres no drain screw for fork oil ?.... forks have to come apart to drain and change ?


The older models had drain screws, I think up to about 89 or 90.
 
harley started doing the same shit also...no drain for
fork oil......thats just a kick in the balls..nice to pump fresh oil in the drain screw..real time saver
 
If you are concerned that the fork oil seals are leaking why don't you just pop the dust seals off and take a look?

If you are getting a residue on the forks that looks like oil, it has to be making it passed the dust seals as well. So both sets of seals could be worn.

You would be amazed at what kind of crap you can find under worn dust seals. Dust, water, oil, rust, corrosion.

Pop of the dust seals and take a look at what condition the oil seals and retaining clips are in.
 
thanks for advice...everything is fine no leaks....just seems like three or 4 times the money if you take it to a shop for a fork oil change..talking to harley mech its over $350 for fork oil change on some modlels..compaired to a 30 min drain and fill with a drain screw
 
Would it be possible to drill and tap the newer forks?? The "boss" is still there and it is not that difficult to do.
 
I wouldn't worry about a little residue on fork tubes - as previously mentioned, take off dust boots a check for crude build up. if no oil build up on outside of seal, they're still good.

On newer forks, you can remove fork oil with vacuum hand pump and a long clear gas line hose. Lift bike off the ground, remove top fork bolts and inner fork springs. Than take a piece of wire and run it the length of the clear hose (to keep the hose straight) attach hose to vacuum hand pump and run it down fork tube and suck the old oil out. do it with fork extended and than completely compressed.

Other way is to take fork legs off and turn them upside down to drain. IMO - if you are going this route and especially if the seals are leaking - take the fork assembly apart and clean all the assembly - you will be surprised on how much crude (black crap) there is in there. And also a good time to change fork springs, etc... if not already done.

Mike
 
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thanks for advice...everything is fine no leaks....just seems like three or 4 times the money if you take it to a shop for a fork oil change..talking to harley mech its over $350 for fork oil change on some modlels..compaired to a 30 min drain and fill with a drain screw

As the K6 forks weren't listed on the Race-Tech site I sent mine in and it cost 390 shipped home with springs, emulators, oil and drop spacers installed...:thumbs up:

I've done another set of Vmax forks and it is super simple!
 
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