gear ratio

[shawn kloker]

I wish someone could figure out how to lower the gear ratio in the rear diff to get the bike to top out in the 1/4 mile.

Dropping to a 17" rear wheeel only helps a little.Still in 4th at the finish line. Need more horse power:bang head:!

 

[hubeerjw]

How serious are you about this? I'm fairly confident we could do it, but there is going to be a little $$ involved for tooling and prototypes. This is something I would love to have as well, but I'm not sure it is worth it. I have been thinking about this as well, and I'm not sure if it would be
better to change the gearing in the rear end or actually mess with the transmission. I would think it would be much easier to change the rear end out, even though the trans gears would be easier to manufacture. If anyone has theirs apart and can snap/post a few pics that would help. All we "should" need to do is change the two bevel gears in the pumpkin. Theoretically, we should be able to make a few "blank" gears, and then do the actual gear cutting and final sizing based on the rear tire people would use and what RPM you want to cross the 1/4 at.
If there are a few more people out there that would be interested, that would also lower the cost.
Anyone?

 

[Buster Hymen]

How serious are you about this? I'm fairly confident we could do it, but there is going to be a little $$ involved for tooling and prototypes. This is something I would love to have as well, but I'm not sure it is worth it. I have been thinking about this as well, and I'm not sure if it would be
better to change the gearing in the rear end or actually mess with the transmission. I would think it would be much easier to change the rear end out, even though the trans gears would be easier to manufacture. If anyone has theirs apart and can snap/post a few pics that would help. All we "should" need to do is change the two bevel gears in the pumpkin. Theoretically, we should be able to make a few "blank" gears, and then do the actual gear cutting and final sizing based on the rear tire people would use and what RPM you want to cross the 1/4 at.
If there are a few more people out there that would be interested, that would also lower the cost.
Anyone?

Sean (one2dmax) does a 5th gear change option for your tranny, but that requires a motor tear down. It would be nice if you could change the gearing like you can in a car differential.

 

[shawn kloker]

Sean (one2dmax) does a 5th gear change option for your tranny, but that requires a motor tear down. It would be nice if you could change the gearing like you can in a car differential.

I want to go the other way though.Lower not higher.

 

[xschop]

Hi, new here. I'm helping my buddy redo his vmax and I am putting 3.3 gears in his rear final drive for better fuel economy. I developed a BOLT-ON Chaindrive for the XS1100, XS750/850, and am going to look into doing one for the Vmax. I also did the research/mod to install the xs750/850 2.9 final drive ratio to the xs11 (3.3) for better fuel economy and lower cruising RPMs....

 

[shawn kloker]

Hi, new here. I'm helping my buddy redo his vmax and I am putting 3.3 gears in his rear final drive for better fuel economy. I developed a BOLT-ON Chaindrive for the XS1100, XS750/850, and am going to look into doing one for the Vmax. I also did the research/mod to install the xs750/850 2.9 final drive ratio to the xs11 (3.3) for better fuel economy and lower cruising RPMs....

You could make a killing if you could produce affordable chain drive conversions for the max.

 

[lankeeyankee]

I think changing the gear ratio lower would hurt the 1/4 mile E/T with the VMAX motor.
This motor makes its power with torque not RPM if that makes sense.
I have expieremented with different sprocket sizes on my old drag bike and believe it or not didnt get the best E/T by going through the traps in top gear and redline.
That was a GSXR motor 1127CC
Just as when you see turbo bikes the rear sprocket is very small to gear it higher.

 

[113s&s]

factory setup is on the money you can ride in 5th gear at 35 40 now..... dont think lowering would do a thing except hurt the ride all around

 

[COP RUNNER]

I USED TO DRAG RACE A GSXR1100 , LOWERED-PIPE-CARBS-WRINKLE SLICK-SPARK ADVANCE-WHEELIE BARS, I WOULD LAUNCH ON THE REV LIMITER , SO I STARTED MESSING WITH THE SPROCKETS, I KEPT GOING LESS TEETH IN THE FRONT , THINKING IT WOULD PULL HARDER DOWN LOW , BUT IT KEPT GOING SLOWER , SO I STARTED GOING HIGHER , & IT KEPT GOING FASTER , I WOUND UP WITH THE SAME AMOUNT OF TEETH ON THE REAR SPROCKET AS STOCK & UP 3 TEETH OVER STOCK ON THE FRONT , THIS I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT WOULD HURT IT DOWN LOW BUT LAUNCHING ON THE REV LIMITER THE BIKE DID'NT BOG , & HAD PLENTY OF TORQUE TO PULL THOUGH IT , IT ELIMINATED A SHIFT TOP END , & WEN'T THE FASTEST EVER , WIERD TO ME BUT TRUE , I WAS HAND SHIFTING , ( KNOW AIR SHIFTER ) , I USED TO DRIVE THIS ON THE STREET ALSO , I WOULD TAKE OUT THE REAR STUT & PUT BACK ON THE SHOCK , & PUT THE STOCK REAR RIM & STREET TIRE BACK ON, & TAKE THE WHEELIE BARS OFF ! THIS IS WHY I WISH SOMEONE MADE A AFTERMARKET RING & PINION FOR MOTORCYCLES , I WOULD GO UP AT LEAST 3 TEETH ON MY V MAX'S PINION TO START ! I GO RIDING ON 300-400 MILE DAY TRIPS , & RIGHT NOW IT SCREAMS SO MUCH WHILE I'M DOING 70-80 MPH'S, I GET A TEAR IN MY EYE ! & THIS WAY I COULD HAVE A DIFFERENT FINAL DRIVE TO RACE WITH ! :cheers:

 

[Rusty McNeil]

:biglaugh:

I USED TO DRAG RACE A GSXR1100 , LOWERED-PIPE-CARBS-WRINKLE SLICK-SPARK ADVANCE-WHEELIE BARS, I WOULD LAUNCH ON THE REV LIMITER , SO I STARTED MESSING WITH THE SPROCKETS, I KEPT GOING LESS TEETH IN THE FRONT , THINKING IT WOULD PULL HARDER DOWN LOW , BUT IT KEPT GOING SLOWER , SO I STARTED GOING HIGHER , & IT KEPT GOING FASTER , I WOUND UP WITH THE SAME AMOUNT OF TEETH ON THE REAR SPROCKET AS STOCK & UP 3 TEETH OVER STOCK ON THE FRONT , THIS I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT WOULD HURT IT DOWN LOW BUT LAUNCHING ON THE REV LIMITER THE BIKE DID'NT BOG , & HAD PLENTY OF TORQUE TO PULL THOUGH IT , IT ELIMINATED A SHIFT TOP END , & WEN'T THE FASTEST EVER , WIERD TO ME BUT TRUE , I WAS HAND SHIFTING , ( KNOW AIR SHIFTER ) , I USED TO DRIVE THIS ON THE STREET ALSO , I WOULD TAKE OUT THE REAR STUT & PUT BACK ON THE SHOCK , & PUT THE STOCK REAR RIM & STREET TIRE BACK ON, & TAKE THE WHEELIE BARS OFF ! THIS IS WHY I WISH SOMEONE MADE A AFTERMARKET RING & PINION FOR MOTORCYCLES , I WOULD GO UP AT LEAST 3 TEETH ON MY V MAX'S PINION TO START ! I GO RIDING ON 300-400 MILE DAY TRIPS , & RIGHT NOW IT SCREAMS SO MUCH WHILE I'M DOING 70-80 MPH'S, I GET A TEAR IN MY EYE ! & THIS WAY I COULD HAVE A DIFFERENT FINAL DRIVE TO RACE WITH ! :cheers:

I'm so used to the sound of the Max spinning at 5500-6000 for hours on end on the highway anymore if it's turning at 4000-4500 it feels like I'm bogging it :biglaugh:

 

[shawn kloker]

COPRUNNER,If that was true with the max,Wouldn't the stock tire guys and 18" radial guys be going faster than the 17" radial guys?

 

[shawn kloker]

I USED TO DRAG RACE A GSXR1100 , LOWERED-PIPE-CARBS-WRINKLE SLICK-SPARK ADVANCE-WHEELIE BARS, I WOULD LAUNCH ON THE REV LIMITER , SO I STARTED MESSING WITH THE SPROCKETS, I KEPT GOING LESS TEETH IN THE FRONT , THINKING IT WOULD PULL HARDER DOWN LOW , BUT IT KEPT GOING SLOWER , SO I STARTED GOING HIGHER , & IT KEPT GOING FASTER , I WOUND UP WITH THE SAME AMOUNT OF TEETH ON THE REAR SPROCKET AS STOCK & UP 3 TEETH OVER STOCK ON THE FRONT , THIS I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT WOULD HURT IT DOWN LOW BUT LAUNCHING ON THE REV LIMITER THE BIKE DID'NT BOG , & HAD PLENTY OF TORQUE TO PULL THOUGH IT , IT ELIMINATED A SHIFT TOP END , & WEN'T THE FASTEST EVER , WIERD TO ME BUT TRUE , I WAS HAND SHIFTING , ( KNOW AIR SHIFTER ) , I USED TO DRIVE THIS ON THE STREET ALSO , I WOULD TAKE OUT THE REAR STUT & PUT BACK ON THE SHOCK , & PUT THE STOCK REAR RIM & STREET TIRE BACK ON, & TAKE THE WHEELIE BARS OFF ! THIS IS WHY I WISH SOMEONE MADE A AFTERMARKET RING & PINION FOR MOTORCYCLES , I WOULD GO UP AT LEAST 3 TEETH ON MY V MAX'S PINION TO START ! I GO RIDING ON 300-400 MILE DAY TRIPS , & RIGHT NOW IT SCREAMS SO MUCH WHILE I'M DOING 70-80 MPH'S, I GET A TEAR IN MY EYE ! & THIS WAY I COULD HAVE A DIFFERENT FINAL DRIVE TO RACE WITH ! :cheers:

Could you post some pics of your GSXR dragbike and you racing it?

 

[COP RUNNER]

COPRUNNER,If that was true with the max,Wouldn't the stock tire guys and 18" radial guys be going faster than the 17" radial guys?

I DONT KNOW WHY EVERYBODY IS HUNG UP ON THE RIM DIAMETER, OTHER THEN WE CANT GET 15 INCH RAIDIALS FOR THE REAR STOCK RIM , ITS THE OUTTER TIRE DIAMETER THAT DICKTATES THE OVER-ALL FINAL RATIO . YOU CAN HAVE THE SAME OUTTER TIRE DIAMETER NO MATTER WHAT THE RIM SIZE , LOOK HOW BIG THE OUTTER DIAMETER OF THE STOCK V-MAX REAR TIRE IS, & ITS ONLY A 15 INCH RIM ! YOU CAN GET A 36 INCH TRUCK TIRE FOR A 15 INCH RIM & YOU CAN GET A 36 INCH TRUCK TIRE FOR A 18 INCH RIM ! AND ITS STILL A 36 INCH TIRE !

 

[one2dmax]

That may be but there are a considerable amount of options for the 17" tire. The 190/50/17 is much shorter then a 190/50/18 (an inch to be exact). I don't think you can find an 18 that would be as short as that 17" tire.

Sean

 

[KJShover]

I wish someone could figure out how to lower the gear ratio in the rear diff to get the bike to top out in the 1/4 mile.

Dropping to a 17" rear wheeel only helps a little.Still in 4th at the finish line. Need more horse power:bang head:!

Just a thought,

On my XS I used a sticky front racing slick size 140/16 is was a low tire compared to the stock 130/80 16 or ,what ever the hell was stock on it,
It held up under some heavy nitrous hits.

That helped a few until Carl came through with my chain convertion.

 

[COP RUNNER]

IF THATS TRUE , AND I DO BELIEVE YOU ! THEN THE MEASUREMENT OF BIKE TIRES ARE DIFFER'NT THEN ALL OTHERS , ON CARS & TRUCKS, THE LAST NUMBER , 13-14-15-16-17-18-19 INCH , IS ONLY THE RIM SIZE , & HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE OVER-ALL TIRE SIZE .

 

[one2dmax]

IF THATS TRUE , AND I DO BELIEVE YOU ! THEN THE MEASUREMENT OF BIKE TIRES ARE DIFFER'NT THEN ALL OTHERS , ON CARS & TRUCKS, THE LAST NUMBER , 13-14-15-16-17-18-19 INCH , IS ONLY THE RIM SIZE , & HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE OVER-ALL TIRE SIZE .

Not true, all the numbers effect the overall diameter. Lets dissect the numbers of a 190/50/17. The first number is the nominal width (190 mm). The second number is the aspect ratio (in this case 50% as tall as it is wide so 95mm per sidewall). The last number is the wheel size but also adds to the total tire height. So the 17" (431mm) would be 17" tall wheel (hole) and would directly effect height. By increasing the wheel size and keeping the same width and aspect ratio (190/50/18 (457mm)) then the tire would be exactly 1" taller.

Most of the time when you upsize the wheel you go to a smaller aspect ratio to compensate for overall diameter. So the stock tire being a 150/90/15 you've got 150mm wide 135mm tall and 15" wheel diameter (381mm). So adding them up to compare:

150/90/15 = 150 (wide) 135+135+381 = 651mm (25.63")
170/80/15 = 170 (wide) 136+136+381 = 652mm (25.66")
190/50/17 = 190 (wide) 95+95+431 = 621mm (24.44")
190/50/18 = 190 (wide) 95+95+457 = 647mm (25.47")
180/55/18 = 180 (wide) 90+90+457 = 637mm (25.07")


This should help clear things up a bit. But, even though these are the mathematical equations of the tires they do vary from that because the motorcycle tire manufacturers are not required to keep as good a tolerance as the car manufacturers do.

Here's an actual size chart:
http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/en_US/browser/attachments/pdf/2008_METZELER_FULL_LINE.pdf

Sean

 

[KJShover]

IF THATS TRUE , AND I DO BELIEVE YOU ! THEN THE MEASUREMENT OF BIKE TIRES ARE DIFFER'NT THEN ALL OTHERS , ON CARS & TRUCKS, THE LAST NUMBER , 13-14-15-16-17-18-19 INCH , IS ONLY THE RIM SIZE , & HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE OVER-ALL TIRE SIZE .

Nooo, the widths number was 140 with the 16 being the rim size I don't remember the profile size so I didn't put it down.

It's been like 10 years since I ran the tire so I can't remember the profile % damn old age CRS:bang head:, but I do remember it was a low profile tire and it looked hellafunny on the bike.

Its still the same code as cage tires being the first number 170 is the width, the second number 80 is the profile size (the percent of the width) and the last number 15 is the rim size.

There was another rider on a 82 Katana 1100 that I stole the idea from.