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Parts Wanted ISO WANTED CLUTCH SPRING :)

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acashisbest

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2022
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Location
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Gentlemen,

This forum has been a tremendous resource in getting my Vmax restored/improved! I have done the racetech front end, new brakes, carbs rebuilt/jetted, and exhaust mod thanks to this forum!
Bike is now running so great the clutch is slipping when I’m in vboost! With only 8600 easy miles I’m going to do the dd mod and was wondering if anyone has a clutch spring they are willing to part with? Or can I buy an ebc spring and stack with stock?
Thanks,
Akash Giri
 
A used second spring is recommended. You'll notice a difference in the effort needed to pull the clutch lever in, but your clutch won't slip.
 
Members who try the double-diaphragm spring sometimes will revert to the single spring because their hands cannot withstand continuous use of the doubled-up diaphragm springs. The issue of the increased-effort needed to work the clutch lever comes into consideration for smaller riders, those with carpal tunnel syndrome, or those suffering from arthritis or rheumatism. They then do what they probably should have done in the first place: overhaul the wet clutch, replacing the friction discs with OEM ones, or a good known-quality aftermarket one, like EBC, Barnett, Vesrah, or Lockhart.

Checking the 'steelies' for glazing and/or warpage should be done as part of the job. Usually, light sanding of the 'steelies' to scuff them up a bit, so the friction discs 'grab' better, should be done.

Careful inspection of the 'steelies' will reveal a side which has a rounded edge perimeter, and one which is 'sharp.' Align the steelies so all the plates are pointing the same way. There is also a set of alignment marks on the clutch boss and the pressure plate to follow when reassembling everything.
1686665910246.png
Refer to chap. 3, pp. 33-35 in the service manual, also chap. 3 pp. 66-69.

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf
Chap. 3 p.68 also shows alignment marks for the friction discs (they call them 'friction plates'), and how to change the stack order/position if the clutch is 'sticky' between the friction plates and the clutch housing (the clutch housing is commonly referred to as the 'basket.'

1686666843063.png

There is also a 'heavy-duty' diaphragm clutch spring, which increases the clutch's holding by ~40% but far-less effort is required to operate it compared to the double-disc diaphragm modification. PCW used to carry them, I believe Sean Morley may be a resource for them also [email protected]

The clutch has an inner friction disc whose surface is half the width of the others. This is an inexpensive way to help gears mesh better upon downshifting, as it provides a bit of slippage, but it doesn't affect things in a healthy clutch upon hard acceleration. You can replace it with a full-width friction disc, and eliminate the thin wire which sits inside the half-width friction disc.
 
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Gentlemen,

I really appreciate everyone’s input on this and have learned a lot! I ended up getting an oem spring & full friction disk from captainkyle. He was very prompt to respond to this post and send me the parts at a very reasonable cost which I appreciated.

Upon tear down I found my steels to be discolored from slippage/glazing so I scuffed them clean and washed off metal residue before re installing. After putting everything back together I immediately noticed the stiffer lever pull which fortunately didn’t bother my spry 26 year old hands too much… guess it keeps my hand shakes strong haha! But I do notice now a VERY much more positive engagement in shifting and absolutely no clutch slippage!! I’m very happy the bike absolutely rips now :) In fact it seems to be easier to find neutral now. Overall very pleased with the support of this forum and the honest opinions, many of my younger buddies are wanting to get Vmax’s now!!
Take care,
Akash Giri
 
When you hand gets tired from the DD mod, you can get the heavy-duty diaphragm spring from PCW Racing, or Sean Morley I believe has them too. Supposed to be much-better grip than OEM, but much-less hand effort compared to the two diaphragm springs paired together.
 
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