Looks like I'm going in!!

[Buster Hymen]

Tranny is really having a hard time, the gears sound like they are clashing when it is under load, so it looks like I have my winter project.:damn angry::snow: So I have my factory service manual, this Venture link for the bottom end http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=001006&id=250
and 6 months of Canadian winter. Anything else I should need before I start? Also any surprises I should look for, like parts flying out when I open it! LOL. I'm use to working on car motors, so hopefully this will not be a huge difference. I believe I can do this from the bottom of the motor without pulling the top end, however since compression is border line, can I pull the pistons from below to do the rings and will the crank need to be removed to do this?
I'll try to document as much of this as possible and post it here.

 

[4gasem]

Tranny is really having a hard time, the gears sound like they are clashing when it is under load, so it looks like I have my winter project.:damn angry::snow: So I have my factory service manual, this Venture link for the bottom end http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=001006&id=250
and 6 months of Canadian winter. Anything else I should need before I start? Also any surprises I should look for, like parts flying out when I open it! LOL. I'm use to working on car motors, so hopefully this will not be a huge difference. I believe I can do this from the bottom of the motor without pulling the top end, however since compression is border line, can I pull the pistons from below to do the rings and will the crank need to be removed to do this?
I'll try to document as much of this as possible and post it here.

Grab the camera sir so that we can have a step by step procedure of it...:whistlin::clapping:

 

[one2dmax]

Yes and no. You can service the trans without removing the heads. No, you can't remove the pistons from below. You can however replace the bearings on the rods if you so desire. I can't recall if I have tried to actually replace the rods from below.

The case is numbered next to the heads of the bolts so you can ensure you don't miss any as long as you keep track of them. I like to make a template out of cardboard and poke the bolts into it.

Sean

 

[shawn kloker]

Tranny is really having a hard time, the gears sound like they are clashing when it is under load, so it looks like I have my winter project.:damn angry::snow: So I have my factory service manual, this Venture link for the bottom end http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=001006&id=250
and 6 months of Canadian winter. Anything else I should need before I start? Also any surprises I should look for, like parts flying out when I open it! LOL. I'm use to working on car motors, so hopefully this will not be a huge difference. I believe I can do this from the bottom of the motor without pulling the top end, however since compression is border line, can I pull the pistons from below to do the rings and will the crank need to be removed to do this?
I'll try to document as much of this as possible and post it here.

The tranny can be repaired from the bottom.

The pistons will not come out with the crank in.Even if they would I would not recommend new rings with out a fresh hone job.

The counter balance shaft has very poor (paint)if any timing marks.I would center punch some before removal.
I recommend new shifting forks and possibly the drum while in there. About $16 a fork from U/motors.

I would also recomend backcutting your gears instead of replaceing with new factory gears.About the same cost and backcut will outperform stock.

I rebuilt my whole bottom end myself except for the machine work(bore job and backcutting). Its still ripping as good as ever.Definately not impossible.

 

[MoPure]

Okay, so I've read quite a bit that backcutting the gears is the fix for 2nd gear slip out. Sounds great. Does anyone have pics or CAD drawings and info on what is actually done in the backcut process? I'm curious because I work in a maint/machine shop and was wondering if it's something I could do at work to save a few bucks.
thanks,
Dale

 

[shawn kloker]

The dogs have some taper on the sides that is tapered even more.You can see the rounded edges on old stock ones.

 

[dannymax]

The dogs have some taper on the sides that is tapered even more.You can see the rounded edges on old stock ones.

Is the purpose of undercutting to provide a small amount of relief for the mating gear to keep it from being kicked out under torque? If so the tolerances probably aren't all that tight and a dovetail cutter and a precision vertical mill should handle it easily, with indexing being the trickiest part.

 

[jedi-]

A HSS dovetail cutter won't touch it. The gears are case hardened, the only milling cutters that will remove material are Carbide, unless the gears have been annealed of course. We'd often use a form ground carbide end mill which has been ground with taper relief to the desired angle.

 

[COP RUNNER]

BUSTER , JUST GIVE THAT THING TO SEAN , LET HIM DO IT UP OVER THE WINTER & JUST RELAX . AFTER ALL , YOU HAVE THIS WEB-SITE TO TAKE CARE OF ! I THINK YOU NEED TO GET YOUR PRIORITIES STRAIGHT ! :rofl_200:

 

[Buster Hymen]

BUSTER , JUST GIVE THAT THING TO SEAN , LET HIM DO IT UP OVER THE WINTER & JUST RELAX . AFTER ALL , YOU HAVE THIS WEB-SITE TO TAKE CARE OF ! I THINK YOU NEED TO GET YOUR PRIORITIES STRAIGHT ! :rofl_200:

LOL... just as a heads up, I posted that last October!! I ended up buying a complete used motor off Sean that winter, so the motor in the original post is still just sitting there on the workbench! LOL! :whistlin:

 

[Frosty72]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RbAoylDWEM

 

[COP RUNNER]

LOL... just as a heads up, I posted that last October!! I ended up buying a complete used motor off Sean that winter, so the motor in the original post is still just sitting there on the workbench! LOL! :whistlin:

SEE THAT BUSTER , I READ YOUR MIND , JUST A YEAR LATER !:rofl_200: