Muffler repack
- Thread starter Rusty McNeil
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Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
I was afraid to use sheetmetal screws on mine since the metal they go in was probably only 14 guage or so. I thought about locktiting a Square nut to hold it long enough to get a bolt started, then the square head would hold it while tightening since the can is round, it wouldn't want to turn..........
I ended up going with rivets...Aluminum ones which I don't think will hold up as long as the stainless ones that were in there to begin with...The brackets that hold the mufflers put some upward "torque" on the mufflers so I think they are under a bit of stress in my application.
The stainless rivets that shipped with my two brothers repack kit were to small.
The two brothers kit, I ordered two, came with enough to pack two mufflers with some left over...It cost $48 to my door for all of it....
I think next time I will tack weld a premanent nut on the inside of the can....
I can see tiny particles of fiberglass blowing out when I rev it so the next re-pack might not be too long from now...I may try and put down a layer of stainless steel wool before wrapping the fiberglass packing on there next time...I think the original pack job was all steel wool, and sounded no where near as good as the fiberglass...
I ended up going with rivets...Aluminum ones which I don't think will hold up as long as the stainless ones that were in there to begin with...The brackets that hold the mufflers put some upward "torque" on the mufflers so I think they are under a bit of stress in my application.
The stainless rivets that shipped with my two brothers repack kit were to small.
The two brothers kit, I ordered two, came with enough to pack two mufflers with some left over...It cost $48 to my door for all of it....
I think next time I will tack weld a premanent nut on the inside of the can....
I can see tiny particles of fiberglass blowing out when I rev it so the next re-pack might not be too long from now...I may try and put down a layer of stainless steel wool before wrapping the fiberglass packing on there next time...I think the original pack job was all steel wool, and sounded no where near as good as the fiberglass...
texmax
Well-Known Member
Gots me an idea for my Kerker(comp baffle). At work we use .25 & .37 thick Nomex for thermal & sound dampening. Gonna pull the glass packing & try this. I want a deeper, not as raspy tone. Will peport back with findings.
I made a core 2-1/4" drilled 80 holes 1/2 and packed the Brillo Pad Crap around it. It works great for what I wanted, to richen the mixture just a touch from the 1-3/4" core I had in... BUT IT'S TOO DAMN RASPY SOUNDING. So, I'll patiently await word...
4gasem
Well-Known Member
You need something that will absorb the sound. An open weave yet dense soft material is key here. This is why the needle mat works so well.
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texmax
Well-Known Member
Yea, the Nomex blanket I tried is woven too tight & just bounces the sound in the can, I need a more open weave.
