My two babes... Yeti and Grizzly

[Diablotin]

same !! i love it

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Thanks man. I also think it turned out nice...

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Well folks time for a facelift... Got around with the plastics and changed them a bit... Looks fancy don't you think? The rear as i said before is gonna go as well... Already preparing a new one to fit... Good good...

 

[DanQuin]

Pretty cool setup.

What front and rear sag numbers are you getting with that suspension?

 

[Diablotin]

i saw that fairing on another bike on fb, although i never thought it could be bought

 

[wildweasel_pt]

It can't. I know him and i went there for a beer and he made me a copy...

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Pretty cool setup.

What front and rear sag numbers are you getting with that suspension?

Front is stock. I just lengthened the forks but the travel is the same... Rear is still to be tuned. Im ordering special made coils for the bikes weight.

 

[gamorg02]

very cool man

 

[Diablotin]

Its one of the most innovative body work i have seen. U're lucky man

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Thanks for the compliment Michael. i too think thats quite exquisite

 

[DanQuin]

Front is stock. I just lengthened the forks but the travel is the same... Rear is still to be tuned. Im ordering special made coils for the bikes weight.

Cool. I'd have to call the guys at the shop, but I think you are probably bit oversprung in the rear. The front, I would recommend somewhere between the stock and 1.0 kg/mm straight rate springs. You might be ok with the stock valving, but if you feel the need to go above 10wt oil, consider valving.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Yes i do agree relying on what we discussed before... The rears are linked suspensions and now they are working direct. It was an experiment that i never addressed properly. With new coils i believe they'll be fine. Im not looking for performance though... After chatting with Sean i think i'll give a try with ATF in the front. I need to check specs because i need thicker oil. I think it will help it on the rebound to avoid the bouncing movement in such a heavy bike...

 

[DanQuin]

Yes i do agree relying on what we discussed before... The rears are linked suspensions and now they are working direct. It was an experiment that i never addressed properly. With new coils i believe they'll be fine. Im not looking for performance though... After chatting with Sean i think i'll give a try with ATF in the front. I need to check specs because i need thicker oil. I think it will help it on the rebound to avoid the bouncing movement in such a heavy bike...

Sounds like you are on the right track with the rear. Have to spring/valve for the direct connection vice the linked one.

I'm not too sure I agree with the ATF approach (all respect Sean, you know I respect the heck out of you). But using fluid damping (typically a speed change) to address a mechanical change (spring/weight changes) without addressing valving changes is optimistic. You may hit what you are looking for, but unless the valving has been adjusted to provide a damping curve that matches the spring return rate (rebound), you are changing parts and hoping for the best.

Couple of thoughts on the tuning method I recommend:

• sag - crucial adjustment in establishing a static geometry for the bike
• rebound damping - must bet set to where the front and the rear recover at the same rate from a similar compression
• compression damping - must be set to where the front and rear compress at the same rate from a similar compression
• balance - the whole machine must compress and rebound at the same rate from the same event

These things should be addressed in the order presented in order to give you the best traction and control. Most times chassis (shock) dynomometers are use to achieve the best result, or known results from past testing. Additionally tuners scrutinize tire wear to determine what is happening dynamically. Although you are dealing with a cruiser, the principles are essentially the same.

 

[satariel666]

Sounds like you are on the right track with the rear. Have to spring/valve for the direct connection vice the linked one.

I'm not too sure I agree with the ATF approach (all respect Sean, you know I respect the heck out of you). But using fluid damping (typically a speed change) to address a mechanical change (spring/weight changes) without addressing valving changes is optimistic. You may hit what you are looking for, but unless the valving has been adjusted to provide a damping curve that matches the spring return rate (rebound), you are changing parts and hoping for the best.

Agree - it will not work "good" without revalving. Talking with Racetech is always a good idea - also, thier kits are not expensive.

Couple of thoughts on the tuning method I recommend:

• sag - crucial adjustment in establishing a static geometry for the bike
• rebound damping - must bet set to where the front and the rear recover at the same rate from a similar compression
• compression damping - must be set to where the front and rear compress at the same rate from a similar compression
• balance - the whole machine must compress and rebound at the same rate from the same event

These things should be addressed in the order presented in order to give you the best traction and control. Most times chassis (shock) dynomometers are use to achieve the best result, or known results from past testing. Additionally tuners scrutinize tire wear to determine what is happening dynamically. Although you are dealing with a cruiser, the principles are essentially the same.

Not quite to the end my friend. V-max is a little specific. Setting front and rear about the same will not provide the best result. Modern sport bikes are perfectly balanced beteween front and rear. V-max is not.
Just my 2 cents...


BTW...for home use this can be great:

http://www.circletrack.com/howto/82884_buildling_shock_dyno/index.html

Im planning to DIM since cant afford 1,5k$ pneumatic shock dyno.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Thank you for y'all inputs. Suspension is a subject i never knew much about. I'll try it and see what the results are... Now im on vacation... he he

 

[DanQuin]

Agree - it will not work "good" without revalving. Talking with Racetech is always a good idea - also, thier kits are not expensive.

Absolutely. I install about 30-50 valve sets a year. But I pay different rates.

Not quite to the end my friend. V-max is a little specific. Setting front and rear about the same will not provide the best result. Modern sport bikes are perfectly balanced beteween front and rear. V-max is not.
Just my 2 cents...


BTW...for home use this can be great:

http://www.circletrack.com/howto/82884_buildling_shock_dyno/index.html

Im planning to DIM since cant afford 1,5k$ pneumatic shock dyno.

Not sure that by saying the rebound rates should be about the same I was implying that setting the front and rear the same. But with regard to damping I stand on what I posted. The front and rear should respond similarly to the same event to provide decent dynamic geometry.

Nice link :thumbs up: I may have to that one day.

 

[satariel666]

Absolutely. I install about 30-50 valve sets a year. But I pay different rates.

Not sure that by saying the rebound rates should be about the same I was implying that setting the front and rear the same. But with regard to damping I stand on what I posted. The front and rear should respond similarly to the same event to provide decent dynamic geometry.

Nice link :thumbs up: I may have to that one day.

Bealive me or not - I do have an zx10r USD forks and I have tried many diffrent methods of suspension tunning. When I was trying to match the front with rear(as it should be according to modern bikes suspension theory) I have failed badly. Some says "those froks are comming from lighter bikes - install havier springs " - this is truly badly idea cuz Im planing to install lighter springs.
Anyone wants to buy a set of slightly used 1,2kg springs?

Now im considering full valving from race tech and bulding a jig from link i have posted above.

 

[DanQuin]

Bealive me or not - I do have an zx10r USD forks and I have tried many diffrent methods of suspension tunning. When I was trying to match the front with rear(as it should be according to modern bikes suspension theory) I have failed badly. Some says "those froks are comming from lighter bikes - install havier springs " - this is truly badly idea cuz Im planing to install lighter springs.
Anyone wants to buy a set of slightly used 1,2kg springs?

Now im considering full valving from race tech and bulding a jig from link i have posted above.

Who's suspension tuning theories? I've read a few books, and I do bit of installing. I'm a Race Tech dealer and I work on all kinds of machines. But I do not routinely swap parts on bikes. I rebuild the stock parts to do what the owner wants. 1.2kg/mm is a pretty heavy spring. Might be good for some heavier riders who have a lot bolted to their Vmax. I'd personally never go above 1.0.

 

[satariel666]

Who's suspension tuning theories? I've read a few books, and I do bit of installing. I'm a Race Tech dealer and I work on all kinds of machines. But I do not routinely swap parts on bikes. I rebuild the stock parts to do what the owner wants. 1.2kg/mm is a pretty heavy spring. Might be good for some heavier riders who have a lot bolted to their Vmax. I'd personally never go above 1.0.

I was saying about SAG, reboung and compression beteween front and rear should be close the same.
I bealive i post a Dave Moss unsprung videos somewehre here :ummm:

I weight around 220 but my v-max is strongly lightweighted.
1.2 are definitly to hard. Im thinking about 0,9 kg. Stock springs are 1kg but even with them I was having very rough ride.
I bealive total suspension is to stiff.


Dealer yar syaing? Im planning revalving so If you can get a good price for me that would be great
Kawasaki zx10r 06-07 forks.

 

[DanQuin]

I was saying about SAG, reboung and compression beteween front and rear should be close the same.
I bealive i post a Dave Moss unsprung videos somewehre here :ummm:

I weight around 220 but my v-max is strongly lightweighted.
1.2 are definitly to hard. Im thinking about 0,9 kg. Stock springs are 1kg but even with them I was having very rough ride.
I bealive total suspension is to stiff.


Dealer yar syaing? Im planning revalving so If you can get a good price for me that would be great
Kawasaki zx10r 06-07 forks.

Ah, I see. Static sag is a relative starting point, that is supposed to be repeatable, not so much a definite. If your static and free sags are within the correct range, or percentage of travel they let us know the spring is appropriate for that bike/rider combo. And the damping curves should match that spring. But what they don't count for is rider preference/habits, tire choices etc. That's where fine tuning, rider feedback and reading tire wear comes in. And Dave is probably one of the best in the industry at that. I send him pictures of tires a couple times of year and he helps me figure out what is happening. Amazing guy.

A .95 kg/mm spring would be pretty close for you in the forks. I'm still running the stock springs on my Vmax, but this winter I'm looking into emulators and a different spring. Probably run the .95 myself, although the calculator tells me I should run a 1.0 kg/mm. I'm not really looking for cutting edge performance. But I will get ahold of Sean for some shocks. I bought some mufflers off him recently and it was a fantastic experience all around. He takes good care of his customers. Something that at times, seems to be becoming rare with people selling stuff.