Need a little help here.

[Nick.]

I had just gotten my 85 vmax project road ready, minus tires, and I was going to take it for a ride. I went to start it up and she cranked good for about a minute and then no more. The solenoid clicks and the power is getting to it, just for good measure I put in the spare I have and it's the same thing. I tried to short it out from the solenoid prongs and nothing, it won't even jump from the solenoid. The fuses are all good, the battery is new, and everything is plugged in as it should be. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[[email protected]]

Sounds like your battery might be dead. New or not, sometimes they aren't charged when you get a new one. Or if it sits for awhile it can still go dead. Try to jump it.

 

[MoPure]

Yep, sounds like battery to me too. It's better for the battery if you charge it first with a charger instead of jumping it.

 

[vmaxcruzer]

Unlike autos a motorcycle battery will loose life significantly after suffering from a drain. Car batteries are bigger usually made better and can live fine after a jump and if the system is in good shape a car will charge up at idle just fine. Motorcycle batteries usually don't snap back like they were new, maybe its the size or the quality that's put into the battery. Another thing is that a bike needs RPM to adequately send good voltage to the battery to keep it charged. If you start it and let it idle with the lights on it may not charge at all until you ride it for a length of time. I don't see 14.2 until I get up over 1900RPM.
I'm not an expert by any means, this is just my experience with these troubles. Its embarrassing to be stranded and or have to push start a big bike (been there on both) so unless you have good luck or feel its an isolated problem I wouldn't chance rolling the dice in it. If you do decide to get a new one, do yourself a HUGE favor and get a sealed battery and call it good for a long time. There are a few to chose from in the electrical section in this awesome forum.

 

[dannymax]

Nick, does it have the original '85 starter? Could that be the problem?

 

[MoPure]

Dannymax brings up a good point. I forgot the early starters were problem prone. Time to pull out the volt meter and do some testing. First test I would do is battery load test. Check voltage on the battery before and while cranking to make sure the voltage doesn't drop too much. If you go from 12.7vdc down to below around 9vdc while cranking then I would suspect the battery. You should have at least 12.5v to start with but it should crank with less than that, but more than likely slow.

 

[Nick.]

I have a tender on the battery at all times so it's always at full charge. When I go to start it, I turn the key, push the button, and all I hear is the click of the solenoid and nothing else, no turning of the starter or anything. The voltage goes across the solenoid nice and strong but the starter isn't rolling. It's annoying. The starter is original also. So where to I check for voltage on that thing?

 

[vmaxcruzer]

Maybe check your ground to the block, it may be loose or painted and not making a good connection. Its on the right rear near the oil fill.

 

[Nick.]

i'll check that out. I'll take it off and clean it really good, sand it a bit so there's clean metal

 

[Nick.]

i cleaned the grounds. One ground wire was holding on by just a hair, 1 copper wire! I stripped it and put it back on and still no go. This is so annoying! It's going to be in the mid 60's all week and I really wanna get out on this bike for the "first" time!

 

[one2dmax]

Sounds like the starter took a dump. You can try applying power directly to it by reaching in with the jumper cables and touching the terminal. It's a bit of a challenge reaching in behind the header but can be done.

The early starters were known to be weak anyway so it's more then likely done. I usually have a few good ones on hand but not sure how many I have left. Retail is well over $300 now and I think I have an almost new one for $250 with shipping.

Sean

 

[yukonerdave]

Did you get this figured out Nick? I've now got the very same problem. Just tested the battery. I've got between 12.6 and 12.9 volts standing still, with nothing on. 12.4 or so when the key is turned on. Drops below 8 (7.5ish) with the start button held down. I take it this means my battery is no good? Are there any other tests to run? What battery do you guys recommend? There are gel ones or something now no?

Anyway - sorry to thread-jack. Nick send me a PM if you do end up testing the starter and need a working one.

 

[dannymax]

Did you get this figured out Nick? I've now got the very same problem. Just tested the battery. I've got between 12.6 and 12.9 volts standing still, with nothing on. 12.4 or so when the key is turned on. Drops below 8 (7.5ish) with the start button held down. I take it this means my battery is no good? Are there any other tests to run? What battery do you guys recommend? There are gel ones or something now no?

Anyway - sorry to thread-jack. Nick send me a PM if you do end up testing the starter and need a working one.

Odyssey PC680 gel battery from BatteryMart is a very popular choice Dave.

I have two of them and zero issues with either (altho they're less than a year old)

 

[yukonerdave]

Just read the battery sticky. I'll probably do Sean's mod and big a big Diehard. Is it worth the $40 to get an AGM? What kind of actual maintenance is involved in the lead acid one? Also, I can do the mod just by removing the battery box, modifying it, and then installing the new batt. right? I don't need to remove the fuel tank or anything?

 

[one2dmax]

The diehard big battery is also available in the AGM and pretty much all I get anymore.

Sean

 

[jfeagins]

After all these years, I finally got tired of the teeny weeny battery and it's longevity problems and did the battery box mod last month.

Let me tell you, this bike hasn't cranked and/or started this quick in years! Those extra CCA's are the bee's knees. :eusa_dance:

My only concern is when it finally comes time to remove that larger (#18 group Walmart brand - the very same battery my Venture used) battery for servicing or replacment, how much trouble I will have prying it back up out of there.

I kinda had to shove pretty hard to get it to go down and sit on the bottom of the tray. VERY TIGHT FIT!

 

[stubwing]

: hey I have just picked up a 2000 MAX about 3 weeks ago that has been sitting for some time I cleaned the carbs and and it runs great, but
it has few issues! 1 it has a slight popping (small back fire) when I let off the gas. 2 the mpg really sucks its about 92 miles then my res. light
comes on. This is my 2nd MAX and the old one getts about 105 miles before the light comes on. And the old one has 148k on it. the new one is
under 10k.

 

[KJShover]

: hey I have just picked up a 2000 MAX about 3 weeks ago that has been sitting for some time I cleaned the carbs and and it runs great, but
it has few issues! 1 it has a slight popping (small back fire) when I let off the gas. 2 the mpg really sucks its about 92 miles then my res. light
comes on. This is my 2nd MAX and the old one getts about 105 miles before the light comes on. And the old one has 148k on it. the new one is
under 10k.

Try the shotgun and peeshooter cleaning technique, then run a couple of shot glasses full of seafoam through your tank. As far as mileage, 95-105 before the low fuel light comes on is about the norm, depending how much wrist your putting into it. A carb sync after doing the cleaning couldn't hurt either.

 

[Nick.]

well I got the battery tested and it's all good. I tried to see if the starter would turn by jumping just it from the power point thing on it ( facing toward the radiator ) and it sounded just purely electric. Sounded like an old ass shop light ballast warming up, an electric MMGMGMGMGMMMMGGMGMG sound. I took a video but youtube AND photobucket won't let me upload it.

Should I assume starter or look elsewhere?

 

[one2dmax]

If the starter just hums (with it removed from the engine) then the starter is bad. If it hums with it still in the engine then the starter is bad or something is jammed. I do know the tolerances are made so close that the gasket is required on the stator cover so if it's been off you have to have one in there (you can't just silicon it back on).

You can verify if the engine is seized by popping off the center cover of the stator cover (2 screws/bolts) and pull the cover and small metal filler out of the way and then you can turn the crank with the flywheel retaining bolt.

Sean