No 1st gear or neutral

[blaxmax]

Oh Hell, watch out for those Dennis Floyd sized Fireball shots they catch up to you quick !!!

1/2 IRISH 1/2 SCOTTISH 1/2 WEST TEXAN You don't stand a chance!!!!:rofl_200:

 

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Did you cofirm it's the segment?

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[blaxmax]

Still looking Mike.Almost positive that is what it is after the research and have already ordered parts for the upgrade.
Appreciate the help.I'm still looking for a 1 3/16 socket for a Jap bike, go figure?

 

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Just hoping it's not the transmission. I'm sure you are too.

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[blaxmax]

Thanks Mike. I wouldn't want to part out #161. I understand that if the trans is f"d it is worth nearly nothing.

 

[one2dmax]

Still looking Mike.Almost positive that is what it is after the research and have already ordered parts for the upgrade.
Appreciate the help.I'm still looking for a 1 3/16 socket for a Jap bike, go figure?

It's a 32mm if I remember correctly (There is not an ASE bolt or nut anywhere on the bike though a few locations can use an ASE since they get close enough together to work).

 

[blaxmax]

It's a 32mm if I remember correctly (There is not an ASE bolt or nut anywhere on the bike though a few locations can use an ASE since they get close enough together to work).

Thank you Sean
1 3/16inch=30mm

 

[Fire-medic]

A 14 mm is .01" from a 9/16, too.

 

[sdt354]

A 14 mm is .01" from a 9/16, too.

For sure, 8mm ans 5/16 aren't too different either. They meet in many sizes. The large hex sizes over 1 1/4" usually interchange. Sometimes a tighter fit on a worn hex can be had by going SAE size, and visa versa.

 

[blaxmax]

From Dennis--- 1 3/16in = 30mm
http://infinityline.net/conversion.htm

 

[DMAN999]

1 - 3/16" looks like 30mm, according to this:
http://infinityline.net/conversion.htm

 

[blaxmax]

Just an update with a photo.Drained the oil and nothing on the magnetic plug.
1 Pin out and didn't travel far. I think it can be seen at the bottom.
I could have it all back together and running in 15 mins but all the parts are on the way for the upgrade. I didn't even tear the gasket.
It took 10 mins to get it all apart (thanks yukondave) and Dennis and Mike.

 

[DMAN999]

^ That's Great News.
I love it when a fix ends up being easier than expected.

 

[blaxmax]

Thank you D

 

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Could have bend much worse. Consider yourself lucky!

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[blaxmax]

Thanks Mike, I do. I grabbed a whole lotta clutch and pushed many miles to get it home.

 

[blaxmax]

Upgraded segment and now have all the gears back. All parts put back together as I followed yukondave's thread to the "T". Made sure every dot lined up.Clutch handle only goes halfway in and totally stiff. Does not feel like it engages and when put in gear and pulled in does not roll. I think I read somewhere that would happen if something was missed but I cannot find where I read it. Bled the clutch by the shifter and same thing. Ideas? Thanks.
OK I found on the thread where sean said this ""DO NOT try and hold the inner basket with a screwdriver or bar as you will break an ear or post very easily and those parts aren't cheap. Don't forget about the small ball bearing or you won't have any clutch action. It will get hard as a rock and not do anything.""
And I made sure the ball was in. And it is hard as a rock still.

 

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Double check the pressure plate alignment.

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[[email protected]]

Another thing that causes problems is if you squeeze the clutch lever when the pressure plate is removed.

The slave pushrod comes out and when you put it all back together you will have problems.



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[blaxmax]

Another thing that causes problems is if you squeeze the clutch lever when the pressure plate is removed.

The slave pushrod comes out and when you put it all back together you will have problems.



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I made sure that didn't happen.
Everything was lined up with the dots.