No Mercy!!!!

[snowprophet1]

The quick story... My two friends have 96 750 chain drive stock Magnas. They actually do run real nice. After I let the one friend drive down the highway and drop a gear next to his buddy, the verdict was that the vmax did have a "little" more. Then he said "so that's a 750 also"? I said no, it is a 1200. He paused and said "Oh". Obviously it didn't impress him much at a higher speed roll on against his buddy, so time to punish his a$$ at the strip. I want his jaw to hit his gas tank when I leave him at the line.
QUESTION- A- If I put just enought air pressure in the front forks to have them already extended at launchtime, it should help the front from extra movement to help prevent a wheelie? and- B- Leave the rear shocks at softest spring and compression so the rear tire can plant hard as it wants to lift the rear of the bike as I unload off the line? What is the best (street) suspension setup to drag but not strap the front end? Thanks!unk:I gotta punish this guy for his 750 comment!

 

[mnmax]

What your asking is the opposite of what drag racers do, although my logic is the same as yours. But i dont think we are correct.

because.....

Drag racers strap the front, compress front end not extend.

And at the rear drag racers use solid mount struts, a very rigid mount.

Therefore I dont think your theory is the best set up. otherwise thats what drag racers would be doing.

I dont think you need to be to concerned about a 750, you will smoke him. unless you absolutely cant ride.

 

[clintard]

or your bike runs like shit

 

[snowprophet1]

I am SURE I can easily beat him by more than 1 sec no problem. 18 years ago I had an 89 vmax that I got into the mid 11's, so I'm sure I can do that or better w/this one. Just want the launch to be the best I can do without looking like I set it up to race ahead of time. I have a banshee I drag race, and yes...I put lower shocks on the front, and have a set of chains to keep them from extending at all if hooking hard. The rear is set hard as a rock or I can run the solid shock replacement also just like you thought it should be. I just am not sure w/a shaft drive (how it lifts under acceleration) if it is better to be cranked up on spring pressure/dampening, or to let it try to lift and possibly plant the rear tire harder? Thanks for the input!

 

[KJShover]

What I did on my old XS11 was; I let all the air out of the front shocks, Left the rear susp alone as I ran it on the stiff side anyway.

The only thing I did different when I was running on the bars was use struts. I still deflated the forks.

It ran in the 9's and was shaft driven. The XS was also similar weight and what shocked me was felt like the Vmax's chassis while riding it. So I don't see too much difference.

The launches were hard and consistant. You might want to play with your rear tire pressure to get the max performance out of your footprint.

Idealy you would want to strap the front end, but there are many out there that run as fast with the front not strapped so all and all its your call.

Good luck on the run unk: