Oil leaking out of hole on waterpump housing.

[82ndCowboy]

Hey guys...
The last 3 nights I have had a small oil puddle under my bike.
Nothing major, just a small wet spot really. I tracked it down to the hole on the bottom of the water pump housing.
It is definitely oil, not water.
And as if that wasn't baffling enough. It only does it at night. I let it sit at work all day the last two days and it doesn't drip at all. But the last 3 mornings I've had the oil spot where I park my Max at night.
Both are on level concrete.
So I'm guessing I need to tear apart the water pump? Just wondering what should I being looking for? Is there a particular seal in there?

 

[gamorg02]

is it full on oil or like diluted oil?

 

[vmax626]

Does it lok like coffee with cream ??:ummm::confused2:
<<Dave>>unk:

 

[maleko89]

Probably a bad oil seal and mechanical seal. I would replace the bearing while you are in there. O-ring on each end of coolant elbow too.

 

[82ndCowboy]

From the sight window the oil looks fine. It's still got a golden color to it. No foaming or bubbles or milky color.

 

[Thevmaxrider]

My Max just started doing this too a couple of weeks ago. Going to pull off the waterpump and replace the mechanical seal and bearings. Just put in a new water pump elbow last spring so o-rings should be good:biglaugh:

 

[texmax]

Hey guys...
The last 3 nights I have had a small oil puddle under my bike.
Nothing major, just a small wet spot really. I tracked it down to the hole on the bottom of the water pump housing.
It is definitely oil, not water.
And as if that wasn't baffling enough. It only does it at night. I let it sit at work all day the last two days and it doesn't drip at all. But the last 3 mornings I've had the oil spot where I park my Max at night.
Both are on level concrete.
So I'm guessing I need to tear apart the water pump? Just wondering what should I being looking for? Is there a particular seal in there?

Your bike is just having a wet dream about being ridden the next day.:biglaugh:
I just did this repair.(twice):bang head: Mine was leaking coolant, but it's all the same, replace everything while you're in there. Here are a few tips.

1. When removing the mechanical seal (coolant seal) use a little heat around the seal housing. When installing the seal don't use any sealant. The Yamaha manual says to apply sealant. Clymer manual says no sealant and they are correct because the manufacturer applies a heat activated sealant to the seal.

2. When installing the mechanical seal do not use a socket (as recommended in the Clymer manual) becuase most sockets are chamfered & it will roll the lip on the seal. There is very little suface area on the lip of the seal to drive the seal into the case housing. I ended up finding some PVC the had the perfect I.D. for the job.

3.Make sure to accurately measure the impeller seal tilt limit (.006 in.) I think this is were I dropped the ball & ended up with a coolant leak. I was in a hurry & just eyeballed it. Well my eyes aren't what they used to be & it was hot,. so I had a few beers:confused2: Second time I found a little bit of surface rust on the impeller seal bore.

Good luck! Hope this helps.

 

[naughtyG]

Sounds like a job for the next CF Tech Day.. ;-)

 

[82ndCowboy]

God! This is way more work than I wanted to tackle. Dammit!!!!
Owning a VMAX is Sooooooooo MUCH FUN!!!!

Why hasn't anyone started a VMAX Rental Store?

 

[dannymax]

It's not that bad a job Robert, the Clymers manual has a nice step by step, if you have one of them. The hardest part, I found, was scraping off the old gasket....VmaxinID posted a product that he said worked good for that....I'll see if I can find it.

danny

Edit: Here it is, right in the "Gasket Removal" thread...whod'a thunk it! http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...l=PZBKJFSK8Ggl

 

[tugla]

It's not that bad a job Robert, the Clymers manual has a nice step by step, if you have one of them. The hardest part, I found, was scraping off the old gasket....VmaxinID posted a product that he said worked good for that....I'll see if I can find it.

danny

Edit: Here it is, right in the "Gasket Removal" thread...whod'a thunk it! http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...l=PZBKJFSK8Ggl

yup danny, pretty much the best thing for the job. we use these in aviation since most things are soft aluminum. there are three levels of firmness, for the life of me i cant remember if white is the softest, but there is also green and think yellow? anyways the white seems to be used more ofter. just stick it in a cordless drill or air drill and wont need to push very hard to remove gaskets. you can also use round scotch brite pads that attach to the same drill attachment you need for this " white scraper" just get the marron one, not so harsh. can be found in most auto parts places that have paint supplies for cars.

 

[dannymax]

yup danny, pretty much the best thing for the job. we use these in aviation since most things are soft aluminum. there are three levels of firmness, for the life of me i cant remember if white is the softest, but there is also green and think yellow? anyways the white seems to be used more ofter. just stick it in a cordless drill or air drill and wont need to push very hard to remove gaskets. you can also use round scotch brite pads that attach to the same drill attachment you need for this " white scraper" just get the marron one, not so harsh. can be found in most auto parts places that have paint supplies for cars.

Thanks Rovic!! Good info....so prolly any auto body supplier would have them...eh? Does one of them last quite awhile or wear away quickly?

 

[tugla]

those white ones last a long time unless your using them lots or really pushing. the scotch brtie ones do wear out fast but are a fraction of the cost. id get one white and a bunch or the reddish scotch brite pads on the disk and should be good supply for the shop. yup any good body supply place will have them, you'll wonder how you lived with out them befor, super good on soft metals. Just need a fast drill makes it easier. I like the cordless mikita's 13.4v or so, nice and light with lots of jam.

side note, little black silicon and the leak stopped on my bike, well for now, still waiting for the gasket so maybe it will be ok for the mid oct ride if it happins.