OK Guys I give up.. going in a different direction

[EAGLEPI]

I started a new thread because I am going in a different direction with this project.

I've had all I can with this bike so I am taking the carbs off and will work on them hopefully with the help of you guys.

To help you understand what I have gone through with this bike,

May 2009 bought it from a guy in MO. he has UFO pipes, I bought a jet kit from Sean and had a dealership install it and after about 2 weeks they gave up on it. I took it to another shop that also had a dyno ( the first place had one too ) and they tried to fix it but said the first place messed it up bad.

Sean worked with both places and couldn't get either shop to get it running right so Sean agreed to take the kit back and give me a refund, that was very cool of him.

I bought a set of marks 4 into 2 Stainless because the UFO were way too loud, in the first 3 days I got a ticker for loud exhaust. While I was waiting for the exhaust Sean told me to send him the carbs and he would fix them which he did. I installed them towards the end of the year and the bike ran great. I put it into storage for the winter.

This spring I got the bike out and this is when all my problems started.

Guys besides the 605 miles I drove the bike home from MO. I have put on about 300 miles in 2 summers so far..makes me want to puke !!!

OK so here is the problem now, I can get the bike to start fine with choke and after a while of warming it will run without choke and it idles OK.. I synched the carbs this morning and they look good.

The strange things are while idling if I turn the idle screw one way the bike starts to stall, if I go in the other direction it starts to go up again but the farther I go in that direction it stops going up in rpms and wants to stall. In the past when adjusting that screw if you go in one direction and it wants to stall I would go the other way and it would keep going up in rpms, I could turn it so that it would be in the 3-4 or 5 rpms now it doesn't seem to work.

The other thing is while idling fine without choke or with choke the minute I hit the throttle it stalls out.

I am having surgery in about 3 weeks and I will be down and out for about 8 weeks so I am taking off the carbs and that will be my project in the next three weeks. I hope you guys will continue to help me.

Ron

 

[4gasem]

Ugh... You'll get it soon enough and you'll become an expert soon!

I think you should take it to the Topeka VMOA event...

Chris

 

[EAGLEPI]

Ugh... You'll get it soon enough and you'll become an expert soon!

I think you should take it to the Topeka VMOA event...

Chris

Yes I know the hard way........lol I'm not sure whent he event is but I am having surgery in 3 weeks and I will be down and out for 8 weeks after
that so I will be not going anywhere for at least 11 weeks.

My hopes is that I can figure out what is wrong with these carbs off the bike and then put them back on within the 3 weeks I ahve left, that way after I recover from the surgery I will have a bike that is running right and I won't have to screw with it anymore and I can enjoy it.

Sean, What would you charge me if I just took the crabs off and sent them to you again ??? Or maybe I should just try to battle though and learn.. this seems like it could be a yearly thing........lol

 

[4gasem]

Yearly? Nah... My bike sits more than it runs... Check out my video I just posted of me starting up my bike for the first time this year.

Chris

 

[yukonerdave]

These are shots in the dark, but,

1.) Is your Vboost cycling properly when you turn the key? Is it possible that it is wide open when you are trying to start?

2.) The throttle cables end (on the carb-side) in little metal sleeves that sit in corresponding holes in the linkage. They come out easily when you are setting everything up. Are they seated properly?

 

[gamorg02]

These are shots in the dark, but,

1.) Is your Vboost cycling properly when you turn the key? Is it possible that it is wide open when you are trying to start?

2.) The throttle cables end (on the carb-side) in little metal sleeves that sit in corresponding holes in the linkage. They come out easily when you are setting everything up. Are they seated properly?

doubt its #1, idle would be rough but shouldn't stall..

 

[EAGLEPI]

All those who know say it is my pilot jet so I guess I will have to get those damn carbs on my bench tonight and then start taking all kinds of pic's and then I'll ask for help in how to get to my pilot jet. Please don't tell me now I want to get the carbs out and in my shop so I can focus and not get lost in the threads.

Just telling you my plans...

 

[one2dmax]

Probably clogged up pilot jets as was noted on the other thread. 9 out of 10 times that's the source or most carb problems. After all it's the smallest jet in our carbs. Ron, before you send them to me you could check them. If you can't get it then you can ship the carbs in box's and I can get them together anyway. It's not all that hard to do though and I am sure with the pics on here and ones you post we can get it sorted out.

Sean

 

[4gasem]

It's really not hard... IMO the ONE thing you have to be aware of is the coil spring between carbs. It's like a snubber spring or something (Sean probably has the technical term). You'll want to grab onto it when you pop it loose or it WILL go flying.

Remember that there's NOTHING that can't be replaced, so if you lose something I'm sure Sean has at least one of them sitting somewhere in the shop... lol

Take it slow, take pictures assembled, and use us.

I took some apart a couple of weeks ago and between Sean and the forum, it was a cinch. I'd had them apart before but not as far as I had to take this one down.

Chris

 

[EAGLEPI]

It's really not hard... IMO the ONE thing you have to be aware of is the coil spring between carbs. It's like a snubber spring or something (Sean probably has the technical term). You'll want to grab onto it when you pop it loose or it WILL go flying.

Remember that there's NOTHING that can't be replaced, so if you lose something I'm sure Sean has at least one of them sitting somewhere in the shop... lol

Take it slow, take pictures assembled, and use us.

I took some apart a couple of weeks ago and between Sean and the forum, it was a cinch. I'd had them apart before but not as far as I had to take this one down.

Chris

So I am not going to get away with not taking the carbs out of the bracket that holds all 4 am I? Oh well This will be a good learning experience for me and I will take it slow trust me I won't make a move before asking and posting plenty of pictures. If anything there will be a shit load of carb pic's on my server that people can refer to if need be.

 

[vmaxcruzer]

I'm not trying to step in and monopolize the help but you can email me with questions. I'm not gonna label myself as a carb expert but I have been in mine too many times to count and have no qualms about tearing into a set. Hell I just recently did it coz I was board. Anyhow I also have many extra parts and can take pic's to guide you through so feel free to contact me. No prob.

[email protected]
Cell 541-892-1485
Kenny

 

[EAGLEPI]

Thanks Kenny, I'm sure I will be needing all kinds of help but I will come back and post once I get the carbs out.

 

[Buster Hymen]

Once the carbs are out, take your time and find the proper size screwdrivers for the bolts. I can't emphasize enough how these things are made of butter and the heads strip easy. Have a few different size vice grips handy, just in case. I don't have the numbers handy, but can someone post the common bolt sizes on the carbs as you might want to grab some allen head bolts to replace them.

 

[EAGLEPI]

Thanks Buster,

I got the carbs off so I started a new thread that I will use for all my questions. I'm going to take it easy tonight and start fresh tomorrow.

Thanks
Ron

 

[davidon]

Agree with the butter comment..make sure you hit the screws with a hammer and socket bit before turning to loosen them up.

 

[m-cman]

Harbor Freight has a small impact tool that is perfect for the carbs. Costs less than $10 and is much smaller and lighter than a normal impact tool. Best thing I ever got from HF.

 

[EAGLEPI]

Harbor Freight has a small impact tool that is perfect for the carbs. Costs less than $10 and is much smaller and lighter than a normal impact tool. Best thing I ever got from HF.

what is it called or even better do you have one of their catalogs? what page would it be on?

 

[Nicki66]

Here ya go Ron, I have this exact tool is has made the removal of these butter screws very easy and I have not had a single problem removing them. I use this to loosen the screws that hold the rack together and for the float bowl screws.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-reversible-impact-driver-set-93481.html

 

[EAGLEPI]

Thank you !!!

 

[m-cman]

Here ya go Ron, I have this exact tool is has made the removal of these butter screws very easy and I have not had a single problem removing them. I use this to loosen the screws that hold the rack together and for the float bowl screws.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-reversible-impact-driver-set-93481.html

That is it. My friend had one and I used it when cleaning his Max carbs. It worked so well, I bought one for myself. I did replace all the original phillips type screws with stainless steel allen heads though.