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ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
clutch bleed lever?
there's a nipple left side, follow the clutch line all the way down to right above the middle gear cover. underneath a rubber flappy thing you'll find it. place your bleed tube on it. use a 10mm (or is it 8mm) box wrench to loosen and tighten.
there's a nipple left side, follow the clutch line all the way down to right above the middle gear cover. underneath a rubber flappy thing you'll find it. place your bleed tube on it. use a 10mm (or is it 8mm) box wrench to loosen and tighten.
Ok. Found it. And its a 8mm.
Now. I am 95% sure I know what to do next.
What I am wondering is do I open the bleed valve and leave it open with the mity-vac? or open and close it as I pull the clutch in?
Now. I am 95% sure I know what to do next.
What I am wondering is do I open the bleed valve and leave it open with the mity-vac? or open and close it as I pull the clutch in?
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
So you have a mighty vac, that will help.
Open clutch master reservoir and top it off
Attach mighty vac hose to bleeder
Pump up some pressure, don't need a whole lot. Watch the gauge and make sure its holding pressure and not leaking air in at your connection
Just barely crack the bleeder, you don't want to open it all the way
Maintain a little pressure in the bleeder and make sure the reservoir doesn't run dry.
If it does run dry you gotta start all over.
keep adding fluid and keeping pressure till fluid is clean and no air bubbles come out.
you may want to pump the lever then hold it in, crack the banjo loose just to make sure there is no air trapped up top. Tighten banjo before letting go of lever if you do this.
Open clutch master reservoir and top it off
Attach mighty vac hose to bleeder
Pump up some pressure, don't need a whole lot. Watch the gauge and make sure its holding pressure and not leaking air in at your connection
Just barely crack the bleeder, you don't want to open it all the way
Maintain a little pressure in the bleeder and make sure the reservoir doesn't run dry.
If it does run dry you gotta start all over.
keep adding fluid and keeping pressure till fluid is clean and no air bubbles come out.
you may want to pump the lever then hold it in, crack the banjo loose just to make sure there is no air trapped up top. Tighten banjo before letting go of lever if you do this.
ouchez
Well-Known Member
Speed bleeders, well worth the few bucks they cost.
O
O
Alright, found it. Bleed it, felt my clutch lever tighten up. Put everything back in place. Cleaned it up. Started it up. Pulled in on my newly tightened clutch, pushed down on the shifter.... felt a lurch and it died on me.
Crap.
Crap.
COP RUNNER
Well-Known Member
i MY 2006 DOES THAT WHEN ITS COLD , LET THE ENGINE RUN FOR 5 MINUTES TO GET SOME HEAT IN IT , SO THE OIL THINS OUT AND TRY IT AGAIN .
tugla
Well-Known Member
is your kick stand down? has to be up to go into gear.
how many miles on your bike, might need a slave cylinder rebuild, can buy the kit, cheap easy to do.
how many miles on your bike, might need a slave cylinder rebuild, can buy the kit, cheap easy to do.
lol no. Kickstand is up. It has 25k miles on it.
How cheap is cheap? lol I just had a kid... cant afford too much more of this.
tugla
Well-Known Member
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/metricpartsoutlet/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=222&B=15
item 30 on the list, its 16bucks for the rebuild kit.
item 30 on the list, its 16bucks for the rebuild kit.
alorio1
Well-Known Member
+1 on the kick stand needs to be up.......if that is not the case, put the bike on the main stand, have the side stand in the up position, start it up and put the bike in first gear. Then pull the clutch in and romp on the throttle a good bit (WITH CLUTCH PULLED IN AND HOLDING DOWN ON THE REAR BRAKE SLIGHTLY) You should be able to tell when the clutch breaks loose, the rear wheel wILL stop turning . Your plates are stuck together from inactivity.
VICTORY!!!!!!!!!!
Ok. To be honest I still dont know what happend. I bled the clutch line and it did tighten up the clutch lever. I still had the same problem though. Everyone kept on saying make sure the kickstand was up. And it was. Granted it does fit the problem. So I went out one last time and made sure it was up. I kicked it with my heel a few times just as conformation.
It worked. I am not sure if it was the bleeding, or the extra kicks on the kick stand. But good god all mighty it runs!!!!
Ok. To be honest I still dont know what happend. I bled the clutch line and it did tighten up the clutch lever. I still had the same problem though. Everyone kept on saying make sure the kickstand was up. And it was. Granted it does fit the problem. So I went out one last time and made sure it was up. I kicked it with my heel a few times just as conformation.
It worked. I am not sure if it was the bleeding, or the extra kicks on the kick stand. But good god all mighty it runs!!!!
tugla
Well-Known Member
good stuff man congrats.
Redbone
Well-Known Member
Good job Footnote! It is frustrating to have these problems as I had a similar issue that I will chronicle below.
While the safety aspect of having the kickstand up is paramount, the safety switch has to work or your not going anywhere. I had a similar problem when I brought my bike out of it's warm cocoon of a basement for the first time this year on Friday. I let it warm up once outside the door and when I was ready to ride it to the garage it stalled as soon as I put it in gear (w/ kickstand up)! I checked my connection at the clutch, ran the kickstand up and down a couple times but it still would not start in gear. I put it in neutral, it fired and then promptly stalled when I put it in gear! GAH!:bang head:
So I checked how the kickstand action against the safety switch and noticed it was not extending fully and thus keeping the switch active. With my fingers I manually moved the switch pin several times and it loosened up rather quickly and seemed to work better. I started up again, pulled the clutch in and snicked it into gear and off I rode! I could have ran my kickstand up and down 100 times and it may not have fixed the issue. I learned a lesson to make sure to check the entire operation of the device to make sure each part is doing it's job.
While the safety aspect of having the kickstand up is paramount, the safety switch has to work or your not going anywhere. I had a similar problem when I brought my bike out of it's warm cocoon of a basement for the first time this year on Friday. I let it warm up once outside the door and when I was ready to ride it to the garage it stalled as soon as I put it in gear (w/ kickstand up)! I checked my connection at the clutch, ran the kickstand up and down a couple times but it still would not start in gear. I put it in neutral, it fired and then promptly stalled when I put it in gear! GAH!:bang head:
So I checked how the kickstand action against the safety switch and noticed it was not extending fully and thus keeping the switch active. With my fingers I manually moved the switch pin several times and it loosened up rather quickly and seemed to work better. I started up again, pulled the clutch in and snicked it into gear and off I rode! I could have ran my kickstand up and down 100 times and it may not have fixed the issue. I learned a lesson to make sure to check the entire operation of the device to make sure each part is doing it's job.
