power seems down after stg 1 dynojet

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mvvette97

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I noticed it seems like it kinda falls on it's face in the upper rpm range since the dynojet. I put the needles and springs and drilled the slides and added the jets that it reccommended. I also have a dyna3000 and a Kerker 4 into 1 and a T-boost.. I really thought it ran better with the carbs stock. What do you guys think about this?:ummm:
 
I don't believe in "jetting in a box".
A re-jet, when done right, takes a little more effort than swapping stock parts out. The dynojet will get you close, but a little more fine tuning is usually required.
A plug chop will show you what's going on in the upper limits, but on the streets it can be pretty illegal...
If you have access to a Dyno with a wideband O2 sensor, that may be the way to go.

As a general rule of thumb though, if it's struggling to MAKE more power on the high side, it's usually rich. If it's struggling to HOLD power, then it's probably lean.

With my openion out of the way... add a little more information for your setup. Stock airbox? Aftermarket filter? What stage Dynojet?
Maybe one of these guys has your set-up, and can point you in the right direction.
 
I heard that tboost doesn't work with the Dyna 3000.

Mark
#1098
 
I don't believe in "jetting in a box".
A re-jet, when done right, takes a little more effort than swapping stock parts out. The dynojet will get you close, but a little more fine tuning is usually required.
A plug chop will show you what's going on in the upper limits, but on the streets it can be pretty illegal...
If you have access to a Dyno with a wideband O2 sensor, that may be the way to go.

As a general rule of thumb though, if it's struggling to MAKE more power on the high side, it's usually rich. If it's struggling to HOLD power, then it's probably lean.

With my openion out of the way... add a little more information for your setup. Stock airbox? Aftermarket filter? What stage Dynojet?
Maybe one of these guys has your set-up, and can point you in the right direction.
it's just the stage 1 with the stock filter and air box.
 
really? Why is that?

Not sure, just remember hearing on the Yahoo list that it doesn't work. I'm not sure if it's all the different versions though. I would try unplugging that and see how it runs.

Mark
#1098
 
it's just the stage 1 with the stock filter and air box.
If you put those Dynojet 160 mains in there with the stock air filter and air box, I bet you're too rich.
You may want to put the 152.5's back in, and do a plug chop to see how close you are. Depending on the restriction of that Kerker (I've never owned one, so I can't say) you may have to drop as low as a 150 main.

As far as the ignition and Vboost go... There is a lot of good information on the list, but I wouldn't stand on some of that stuff as gospel without first hand experience.
 
If you put those Dynojet 160 mains in there with the stock air filter and air box, I bet you're too rich.
You may want to put the 152.5's back in, and do a plug chop to see how close you are. Depending on the restriction of that Kerker (I've never owned one, so I can't say) you may have to drop as low as a 150 main.

As far as the ignition and Vboost go... There is a lot of good information on the list, but I wouldn't stand on some of that stuff as gospel without first hand experience.
If I remember right I think I did put the 160s in. I may just put the smaller back in to see what it does.
 
Hi,
Even the stock jets may be a bit rich. Next time I dive into the carbs I'm going down a jet size.( but I'm at 5,000 ft above sea level). My ZX 11 with a very free breathing pipe and intake system mods does very well with stock size jets and just a bit richer in the idle screw and needle jet position.
Lew
 
I noticed it seems like it kinda falls on it's face in the upper rpm range since the dynojet. I put the needles and springs and drilled the slides and added the jets that it reccommended. I also have a dyna3000 and a Kerker 4 into 1 and a T-boost.. I really thought it ran better with the carbs stock. What do you guys think about this?:ummm:

What are your needles set at? Where in the rpm band does it fall on it's face?

Mark
#1098
 
What are your needles set at? Where in the rpm band does it fall on it's face?

Mark
#1098
I can't remember for sure on the position of the needles. I put them where the dynojet said to. I think it was second from the top.
The power is nice and smooth till it gets about 8k then it almost feels like the the vboost goes back shut. It doesn't miss or sputter just feels like the vboost closes at the 8k and up. I can set and rev the engine and see the vboost opening but it's kinda hard to get on it and rev it past 8k and look down at the vboost.:biglaugh:
 
I noticed it seems like it kinda falls on it's face in the upper rpm range since the dynojet. I put the needles and springs and drilled the slides and added the jets that it reccommended. I also have a dyna3000 and a Kerker 4 into 1 and a T-boost.. I really thought it ran better with the carbs stock. What do you guys think about this?:ummm:
I just did a dynojet stage 1 and a kerker 2 days ago . I went with a 170 main jet and a 150 pilot. It ran like crap with the recommended 2 1/2 turns out . I called dynojet and spoke to tech support and the guy told me you could go out as much as 4 turns but no more than that. I ended up going 3 1/2 turns out and it screams . If you have your boost set to come on at 3000 it will stumble hard and then come on hard but its not worth it put it back to 6000 and you will have a smoother ride. Good luck I hope this helps:cheers:
 
After playing with the tuning 3 turns out seems to be best , good luck with it
 
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