Roughing up the rotors

[thundermax]

Putting new pads on the front and back. First time for no. 502. Guess I will rough up the rotors by spinning with some tough sandpaper on them.

Is this what most of you'll do?

 

[PATMAX]

Uhm, never thought of that. Why not just turned? Are they glazed real bad? Maybe blasting cabinet and refinish the carriers while your at it. Worst case you get some fresh rotors right!

 

[Miles Long]

Uhm, never thought of that. Why not just turned? Are they glazed real bad? Maybe blasting cabinet and refinish the carriers while your at it. Worst case you get some fresh rotors right!

The stock rotors are too thin to turn down, and chances are the run-out would be out of spec, if you had it them machined. Better to leave well enough alone.
I've removed the glazing off of still useable pads, both car and bike, with emery paper or a fine tooth file, and cleaned up rotors with emery paper. It does make a noticeable difference, but only for a short time.
Cheers!

 

[PATMAX]

Yeah had a set that were ribbed worse than a specialty condom. No turning or sanding were gonna fix them! Like I said, a fresh set doesn't sound unreasonable. Afterall, rotors are a wear item just like tires, pads, oil etc. maybe even time to upgrade! The monkey made me say it...

 

[naughtyG]

I also say leave'em well alone! If they are scored the pads will adjust themselves to that shape over time. If they are near the minimum serviceable thickness, replace them!

These are great for the price, I had them on my '86: http://www.ebay.com/itm/120463043344?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

They look awesome and stop better too!!

 

[shicks16]

I had a couple friends that tried getting theirs turned and it didn't end well for them, they ended up with warped rotors, one set was so bad that the wheel wouldn't even do a full turn without hitting, and the other had a really bad pulsation when applying the brake. I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

I usually get some 60 or 80 grit paper and lightly sand ACROSS the direction of travel, to break any surface glazing when installing new pads. Then wipe them with a clean rag sprayed with brake cleaner. If they have a good size step in them, they are probably junk and can't be saved.

 

[sdt354]

I know turning the cheap and thin car rotors was usually a bad idea. I went through a pile trying to salvage them once. Most warped.I think rotors could be rotory ground with sucess. Like on a blanchard grinder. There isn't a lot of extra material on them though. I never tried bead blasting them, but suspect it would work as well as hand sanding them, just to deglaze. The rotors from China stop my ride as well as the OEM's. I doubt they will laast as long as OEM or Galphers. Time will tell.
Steve-o

 

[redneksoldier]

Scuffing the rotors is a good idea if they have not been grooved too badly and are within the wear limit. However, when you do this, you want to scuff them in a radial pattern (across the wear grooves) And as stated previously, turning them is not a viable option and usually ends badly. Most rotors will develop grooves before they reach the end of their life. New pads on grooved rotors is not necessarily a bad thing either. The pads will wear into the grooves over a short time. This is what pad manufacturers refer to as "bedding in" the pads to achieve maximum contact surface area between the pad and rotor surfaces. You may notice diminished braking upon initial installation of new pads but this will improve rapidly each time you use the brakes until they are completely "bedded in"

The Ebay rotors are a great option as well. I have a set on "The Punisher" and they are an amazing improvement over stock when paired with some EBC HH pads. The price makes the deal even sweeter.

Good Luck,
Dusty

 

[[email protected]]

I like to clean up my rotors before installing new pads. I don't try to change the surface of the rotor, I just want to clean the old braking material off the rotor surface. I usually start by removing the rotor and cleaning well with soap and water, then rinse with water. After that I use a scotchbrite pad or 220 grit paper to clean it up. I go lightly. I'm not looking to remove metal or imperfections on the rotor surface, just remove any glazing or old material deposited by the pads.

Has worked for me on both dirt and street. Seems like it makes the pads bed in quicker. I may be kidding myself by thinking that though.

 

[bazwell]

I think everyone here has covered it pretty well!
I'd say +1 on de-glazing by scuffing across the rotor (not by spinning the wheel).

 

[natnic]

If the grooves are deep the pads will sit on the peeks and can be damaged by overheating in those areas if used hard,and they will need a lot longer to bed in.