Rust in Tank - Metal Rescue any good?

[Johnny Glenn]

Thanks for looking in - I'm trying to fix a mildly rusted tank the easiest way?....and possibly the least expensive way? How about Metal Rescue for $25...has anyone had good experience w/ that? I've seen Por15 and Caswell etc but reluntant to put a sealer in which could cause problems itself if not applied right :ummm:- unless that's the most recommended way of doing this. The tank looks good inside - of what I can see, just small rust particles draining out - I knocked around some screws and nuts to loosen things up but don't want to have to do this again in a few years! Metal Rescue looks simple but wanted to see what experience might have to say. Thanks.

 

[[email protected]]

Never heard of that stuff. Sounds interesting.

I've heard conflicting information about the OEM fuel tank. Some say the tank is bare steel. Some say it has a zinc phosphate coating. This product removes zinc phosphate. I have no idea if that would be a problem or not.

 

[satariel666]

Never heard of that stuff. Sounds interesting.

I've heard conflicting information about the OEM fuel tank. Some say the tank is bare steel. Some say it has a zinc phosphate coating. This product removes zinc phosphate. I have no idea if that would be a problem or not.

It is plated 100% guarantee that!

Id say its not zink, IMHO its TIN plating.

Edit:
If coating will be removed tank will rust very fast.

 

[unblind]

Looks similar to Evapo-rust, which I have used with decent results. (not in a tank)

My only concern would be what if you didn't get all the loose flakes out of the tank with screws and a good shaking?
The Metal Rescue would convert all rust but you could still have tiny particles that might eventually break free? Hopefully the filter would catch it.

I have lined a few tanks before with POR and if you follow the directions, it's easy, and afterward, no worries about rust or flakes. The kit is like $40

 

[[email protected]]

It is plated 100% guarantee that!

Id say its not zink, IMHO its TIN plating.

Edit:
If coating will be removed tank will rust very fast.

I would think bare steel would be a problem. I talked with PCW about their tank welding and they said they use bare steel and never have a problem:confused2: We work with a vendor that makes custom copper bars for us and tin plates them. Wonder if its the same coating you are referring to.

 

[satariel666]

I would think bare steel would be a problem. I talked with PCW about their tank welding and they said they use bare steel and never have a problem:confused2: We work with a vendor that makes custom copper bars for us and tin plates them. Wonder if its the same coating you are referring to.

I was thinking about that tank mods I have seen - for example on Jim Rogers bike...it will hold but... how long?

I was talking with a guy whos owns a "tank repair shop" - yup that kind of bisness exists in PL LOL
He said it kinda depens...mainly of fuel grade and quality.
Tanks do not rusts in diesels - I always thought that too!
He said - nahh!

He said - as long as your are using your vehicle very often and therefore yar changing the fuel often - you will be fine.
You can also storage you vehicle with a good "no rusty" effects but the tank should be full.
Thats what he said.


About plating.
I was working in the company that owns a "plating plant" - havent worked there personaly but I was visiting my collegues very often: you can guess why I was there so often ha :biglaugh:
Its impossible to plate an closed containers - niether electro nor fire coating.
Diffrent story with TIN - you just need to fill the tank with melted tin and shake it for a while...exaclty the same yar doing while EPOXY repairing the tank.

At the end I may be wrong - maybe there are some methods that my eyes never seen :confused2:

 

[Johnny Glenn]

Thanks - I haven't heard any bad things about POR15 and for $40 to give some peace of mind in covering the rust spots that's obviously in there - why not? I thought I read somewhere it might be a 3-4 day process - any comments on that? Also looking in the tank I noticed some (things) in there - I guess a sensor for the reserve? -- the sealant won't mess that up or seal the fuel outlets - especailly the one outlet that is very small? Thanks for the help!

 

[unblind]

Look in the carb section, there is a sticky called "how to seal a tank".
I haven't even read it, but sure it might be helpful.

As far as down time, yep, instructions say 72 hours if I recall. It certainly hardens up faster than that, but to fully cure you have to wait it out.

I removed the fuel sensor and drain bolt, covering both openings with duct tape, (the sealer is like paint consistency, so none leaks out) . The fuel tube as well as vent on top need to be blown out after sealer in, just use a small tube and gently blow through to make sure no sealer is going to clog as it sets up.

Make sure to clean all openings and threads very well, the stuff really wont come off once cured.