What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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I got off my ass & finally pulled the oil pan off the tourmaster # 2 rod bearing is spun. I might pull it apart next week & take the Rod over to Falicon & have them resize it & throw another crank & bearings at it. Just need to make a little more cash first .

Check the block for the crank thrust surface for damage before investing a ton in the block. It can be fixed but adds to the cost of the repair.

Sean
 
Well 385.00 and they will let it go dont you hate one price then they have a lot of add on's so it's 85.00 more.
It was 105 per side then 118.45 parts then 11.38 shop supply's then 26.09 tax.
So waiting to post bail hopd they dont park it close to any sick bikes I dont need it picking up stuff.
 
Two 1985 oil seals 1NL-23145-00-00 $18.42 each
two dust seals 26H-23144-00-00 $13.03 each
some fork oil, ~$10.99
http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Pro...cagpspn=pla"&gclid=CKCk7Y2CsbYCFQGCnQodP0cACw
your time to fix it, (free)​

Do it yourself next-time and keep your money in your pocket.​


but Sean and Kyle can get them for you too, and will probably be available to answer questions, certainly on here if not on the phone. And if they are otherwise obligated and cannot respond, someone else on here will volunteer.​

I understand if this is your way to work, you don't have the luxury of having the repair take awhile, but next-time, ask. If you have everything on-hand before you start, and you don't need anything extra, and there are no snapped-or-stripped-fasteners, you should be able to do the repair in a day, easily. This may require replacement of oil-soaked brake caliper pads if the leak was for awhile. Thorough cleaning of the rotor(s) is also required. If one fork is leaking, repair both. Don't bother to do the repair if the downtube is pitted in the rubber oil seal area, as the pits/flaked chrome will immediately cause failure of your new oil seal. You will have to replace the downtube, either w/new (try Forking by Frank as the stock replacement is $241.92 1FK-23110-00-00 and that is 'per-tube.') It's been awhile, but last time I called Forking by Frank, it was $280 for a pair, before shipping. So, for less than the cost of the dealership repair, you could replace both fork downtubes, all oil and dust seals; and oil, and be back on the road.​
 
Sadly, I posted my bike for sale yesterday ... after giving her a proper romp down the country roads. It's still a really fun bike to ride, but I just don't get on it as much as I should, and thought perhaps a new owner may give the proper attention. I'd be interested in what a proper price might be. I put it at $7,000.00 but that number was just pulled out of thin air. Here's the ad on the Portland CL:

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/mcy/3721590562.html
 
Sadly, I posted my bike for sale yesterday ... after giving her a proper romp down the country roads. It's still a really fun bike to ride, but I just don't get on it as much as I should, and thought perhaps a new owner may give the proper attention. I'd be interested in what a proper price might be. I put it at $7,000.00 but that number was just pulled out of thin air. Here's the ad on the Portland CL:

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/mcy/3721590562.html

hmm. nice looking bike but the yellow may turn people away as would the skull. i'd honestly find a chrome or black headlight assembly and put that on as i think that will make a big difference in peoples minds or even just have one available to put on. i have one for sale if you want to talk which i realize sounds like a conflict of interest but i really didn't mean for it to be.

i think the $7k figure will be much to high for the years and miles for most people. unfortunately i think you'd be looking in the 3500-4500 range.

also in the pics looks like your fork seals are going?
 
hmm. nice looking bike but the yellow may turn people away as would the skull. i'd honestly find a chrome or black headlight assembly and put that on as i think that will make a big difference in peoples minds or even just have one available to put on. i have one for sale if you want to talk which i realize sounds like a conflict of interest but i really didn't mean for it to be.

i think the $7k figure will be much to high for the years and miles for most people. unfortunately i think you'd be looking in the 3500-4500 range.

also in the pics looks like your fork seals are going?


Thanks for the input. I suspected it may be a bit high in price. And yes, the fork seals are definitely going. I may need to ask the dealer for a quote to repair those.
 
Two 1985 oil seals 1NL-23145-00-00 $18.42 each
two dust seals 26H-23144-00-00 $13.03 each
some fork oil, ~$10.99
http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Pro...cagpspn=pla"&gclid=CKCk7Y2CsbYCFQGCnQodP0cACw
your time to fix it, (free)​

Do it yourself next-time and keep your money in your pocket.​


but Sean and Kyle can get them for you too, and will probably be available to answer questions, certainly on here if not on the phone. And if they are otherwise obligated and cannot respond, someone else on here will volunteer.​

I understand if this is your way to work, you don't have the luxury of having the repair take awhile, but next-time, ask. If you have everything on-hand before you start, and you don't need anything extra, and there are no snapped-or-stripped-fasteners, you should be able to do the repair in a day, easily. This may require replacement of oil-soaked brake caliper pads if the leak was for awhile. Thorough cleaning of the rotor(s) is also required. If one fork is leaking, repair both. Don't bother to do the repair if the downtube is pitted in the rubber oil seal area, as the pits/flaked chrome will immediately cause failure of your new oil seal. You will have to replace the downtube, either w/new (try Forking by Frank as the stock replacement is $241.92 1FK-23110-00-00 and that is 'per-tube.') It's been awhile, but last time I called Forking by Frank, it was $280 for a pair, before shipping. So, for less than the cost of the dealership repair, you could replace both fork downtubes, all oil and dust seals; and oil, and be back on the road.​
Yea I know but I tryed to get help but no go there was a shope that said they could do it but they backed out at last minute so no choice at the time . Well it's done and the parts you listed was all it needed. I feel so bent over.:10_6_8:
 
Finished welding in the bungs, polished, and installed the exhaust back on the bike. 02 sensor is tucked in nicely, and can't even be seen! Hopefully this weekend I can get the LC-1 wired and installed. I contacted an old friend about using his machine shop to make myself a halo that will attach to my speedo and hold all my gauges and shift light.
 

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Finished welding in the bungs, polished, and installed the exhaust back on the bike. 02 sensor is tucked in nicely, and can't even be seen! Hopefully this weekend I can get the LC-1 wired and installed. I contacted an old friend about using his machine shop to make myself a halo that will attach to my speedo and hold all my gauges and shift light.

looks nice man!

bought my brother a mtx-l for his birthday so i'm hoping to see some use out of it too sometime hehe.
 
Finished welding in the bungs, polished, and installed the exhaust back on the bike. 02 sensor is tucked in nicely, and can't even be seen! Hopefully this weekend I can get the LC-1 wired and installed. I contacted an old friend about using his machine shop to make myself a halo that will attach to my speedo and hold all my gauges and shift light.
Good work Bob !!
 
looks nice man!

bought my brother a mtx-l for his birthday so i'm hoping to see some use out of it too sometime hehe.
Thanks guys, but the welds aren't as nice as I would've liked them. Had to use a mig but would have preferred tig'n it! Garrett, that's the best gift for a brother.....one you can use too!!!
 
Went back to the stock fuel pump. Started right up with some choke. Let it come up to temp and synched my carbs. Very smooth. Gotta tighten up some bolts, but I'm riding tomorrow to all the different stuff I have to do. Will update mileage thread at some point when I get gas to test that out. Might tighten steering head bearings late tonight after my gig.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Finished wiring the Vrod headlight. Also added blue LED to the parking light & gonna tie into the LED accent lighting later. Also put on some ISO Kuryakyn grips with Trident bar end mirrors. What a difference!!! I can see at night now with Vrod light & be seen during day light hours & see behind me now.

Safety upgrades

Anybody know what I can use to cover the holes where the stock mirrors went?
 
I think the factory used Rubber/Plastic plugs for that requirement on bikes that had mirrors on fairings but used the same masters (look up 2003-2004 FJR's for one example or the old FJ 1100-1200 for the exact masters as the vmax and plug use).

Sean
 
you dont. it has to be drilled out and discarded. then a new center purchased and installed.
 
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