Yukoner's NEED HELP list:

[yukonerdave]

2 quick questions:

1. Hanes says I can test the solenoid by applying power directly to it from the battery. It says that when I do so, it should "click". Does this mean that it should click once when power is connected, or that it should click continually ("click-click-click-click")?

2. If I were to replace the black wire from the solenoid to the starter, do I need to order it OEM, or is there a chance of finding something locally that I could use? What stores might have what I need?

 

[RagingMain]

2 quick questions:

1. Hanes says I can test the solenoid by applying power directly to it from the battery. It says that when I do so, it should "click". Does this mean that it should click once when power is connected, or that it should click continually ("click-click-click-click")?

I am pretty sure it only clicks once.

2. If I were to replace the black wire from the solenoid to the starter, do I need to order it OEM, or is there a chance of finding something locally that I could use? What stores might have what I need?
I would take it off the bike and go to NAPA or Pep Boys, I am sure they have something that will work, and the thicker the better.

See above

 

[[email protected]]

It should click once.

I would think welders cable would work good. It is very flexible and highly conductive. You can buy it and some lugs for it at most welding shops or some tractor supply stores have them too.

Forgot to add that some auto parts stores will have just what you need too.

 

[yukonerdave]

OK thanks.

Bike has started REALLY sluggishly since I got it. Engine would turn, but really slowly, until it fired. Now I've got nothing at all when I hit the start button. I get one sorta "HMM" but thats it - no engine turning, no starter spinning. Sounds like power is getting to the starter, but its just not enough power to turn the engine (my best guess, but I really don't know a lot about it). Here's what I've done:

-installed AGM Big DieHard battery. I get about 13.5v standing still, 13.2 with key turned on, and a drop to about 9.8 when I press the start button.
-replaced the starter - the old one still spins well when I apply power to it, so I don't think that was the problem. The one I replaced it with was tested and is good.
-replaced starter clutch (bitch of a job, but it hasn't helped my problem at all. Old one WAS cracked, though, so it had to be done).
-Installed R1 R/R, and replaced the original Crimp.
-Cleaned the negative wire connections at the negative terminal of the battery, at the engine ground by the rear M/C, at the solenoid, and at the starter.
-Tested solenoid by applying power directly to it. It does click when it gets power. I haven't done any other tests.

Bike was running before changing the starter clutch, otherwise I would be afraid that it was seized. That's kinda what it sounds like though - power getting to the starter, but nothing happening after that.

So my best guess is that the starter is not getting enough power. How can I test that hypothesis? How much power should it be getting? I have a multimeter, but I'm pretty new with this stuff - not sure how to measure it, or what exactly I need to measure. Any tips? I have not done anything to the starter wire yet, so I was thinking that the next step would be to replace it. Any other ideas?

 

[[email protected]]

run a jumper cable direct from starter to battery positive. Make sure the bike is in Neutral first!

 

[RagingMain]

+1 to the above

If that doesnt solve the problem you might have what I had once and it took me awhile to find it.

The gears/pins from the starter to the starter clutch were binding in their housing. It kept the clutch from getting all the power from the starter. I am sure you know which little gears I am talking about.

 

[one2dmax]

If that's the case do you remember if both of your dowel pins were in the cover to hold it into the correct position? I do know the gasket thickness is important (needs to have a gasket). Starter could still be bad. Try removing the stator center cover and metal block plate and turn the engine over by hand with a ratchet.

Sean

 

[yukonerdave]

Huh weird.

How were they binding, Fargo? They just weren't spinning on the posts? Did you replace them all? I fiddled with it some more and she fired right up. I pressed the button and got nothing. Then I pressed it again and it paused, then spun normally and fired. Shut it off and pressed the button and got nothing. Tried it again, same thing - a pause, then normal spin and fired up in like 1 second. I dunno. I gotta run but I'll fiddle some more later. Thanks for the input guys!

 

[one2dmax]

Maybe bad contact in the start button (not all that uncommon at all!).

Sean

 

[MoPure]

Dave, did you ever get your rear busa's squared away? I did this conversion too, and on mine, they grip pretty good, but the brake lever has to travel a LONG way almost bottoming the m/c out. Does anyone know of another m/c that would bolt in place of max's rear one.... larger cyl bore I guess??

 

[yukonerdave]

Hey Mo

For whatever reason the rear took a lot of bleeding to get it to grip well. It also tightened up a lot just during the first week of use. I can lock up the rear effortlessley now, but there is more lever travel than ideal. Not enough that I will do anything with it until riding season is over. A replacement rear M/C would be cool, but I have no idea if there are any bolt on-replacements. Let me know if you find one!

 

[veebooster]

Dave,

Someone posted this on the site a while ago. It didn't seem to be the same issue you're having but possibly related or similar? Not sure if you dropped the swingarm and separated the pumkin from it or not but I remember them saying that there is a special way that it should all be re-aligned. Check out the attachment.

You beat me to it! Yes I posted that last year. I was very surprised to find out how sensitive the rear end is in reassembly. I really thought I had a bearing going out. Since i now always use this method I haven't had any problems.


Dale #2592

 

[[email protected]]

You beat me to it! Yes I posted that last year. I was very surprised to find out how sensitive the rear end is in reassembly. I really thought I had a bearing going out. Since i now always use this method I haven't had any problems.


Dale #2592

I'm glad you posted that because I used that info over the winter during re-assembly after the motor mounts.

THANKS!

 

[veebooster]

I'm glad you posted that because I used that info over the winter during re-assembly after the motor mounts.

THANKS!

This forum has been great for all sorts of tips/info that I've used. Thks to all for taking the time to add to it. This is really the only useful thing I've been able to contribute ! unk: