Yukoner's NEED HELP list:

[one2dmax]

Would the bracket fit if the radius of metal was reduced around the bolt locations (on the adapter)?? There is more then enough there to trim if you wanted to. Probably could easily remove half the metal we provide and still have more then enough.

The driveshaft is easier to install with the swingarm hanging down but i've done it enough it takes about 3-5 seconds to put one back in now with it in any position.

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

Couple of things to add to the knowledge base:

1. Inserting the driveshaft into the U-Joint is a LOT easier if you first drop the swingarm as low as it'll go (without the shocks on). I had a hell of a time getting it to line up until I tried that - went smoothly after.

2. Sean's Busa adapters will not fit on the rear - they don't make it into the bracket. No Busa's all around for me I guess (not that there is any need for a 6 pot caliper on the rear, especially with SS lines).

yea i think that makes all the difference. whats the noise situation like?

The driveshaft is easier to install with the swingarm hanging down but i've done it enough it takes about 3-5 seconds to put one back in now with it in any position.

Sean

well we all can't be vmax gods here sean!

 

[one2dmax]

LOL, not a "God" but too much experience taking them apart to replace in the parking lot. Sometimes getting the broken stuff out without a full dismantle is the trick. A heater hose or chunk of garden hose fits about right over the stub of the shaft that's left, put your thumb over the end of the hose to create some vacuum, and give it a quick yank! Swap in the new one and you're back on the road in 30 minutes or less.

Sean

 

[yukonerdave]

30 minutes or less...

I am NOT telling you how many minutes (hours) I spent on the rear end! I have everything put together properly now anyway, but I accidentally put it in gear as I was doing it, and haven't tried spinning the wheel yet. I'll put in all the fluids today and make sure it sounds alright. Is it OK to change gears by manipulating the shifter without any oil or clutch fluid? I thought about trying to put it back into neutral, but just didn't know if I should touch it.

I think the busa adapter would fit if it were trimmed down. I haven't got a bench grinder or anything else that I'd want to use to try doing that, though. Also, I have a smaller diameter rotor in the back, and I'm assuming that it'll be positioned wrong with that one anyway. I'm itching to get her done, so I'll probably just stick with the stock caliper for now. I have the busa caliper ready to go (all nicely powdercoated), so if I can find a decent deal on a larger rotor and figure out how to make the adapter fit, I'd still be interested in trying this out.

NaughtyG said something about a small spring on the brake lever??? Must have lost that one during the rebuild. I'll look around to see if I've got it still. I didn't take the M/C apart again - I just loosened the allen head bolt holding the lever in place and then tightened the nut on the other end. With it freed up a little like that, the spring in the M/C is enough to push it back after it is depressed.

Which of the boxes on the left side panel controls the Vboost? I removed the rear-most one to mount my R1 R/R and tucked it in behind the panel (I has room in there because I've remover the coils (COPs)). Perhaps the connection came loose when I relocated it. I'll check it today.

 

[gamorg02]

30 minutes or less...

I am NOT telling you how many minutes (hours) I spent on the rear end! I have everything put together properly now anyway, but I accidentally put it in gear as I was doing it, and haven't tried spinning the wheel yet. I'll put in all the fluids today and make sure it sounds alright. Is it OK to change gears by manipulating the shifter without any oil or clutch fluid? I thought about trying to put it back into neutral, but just didn't know if I should touch it.

I think the busa adapter would fit if it were trimmed down. I haven't got a bench grinder or anything else that I'd want to use to try doing that, though. Also, I have a smaller diameter rotor in the back, and I'm assuming that it'll be positioned wrong with that one anyway. I'm itching to get her done, so I'll probably just stick with the stock caliper for now. I have the busa caliper ready to go (all nicely powdercoated), so if I can find a decent deal on a larger rotor and figure out how to make the adapter fit, I'd still be interested in trying this out.

NaughtyG said something about a small spring on the brake lever??? Must have lost that one during the rebuild. I'll look around to see if I've got it still. I didn't take the M/C apart again - I just loosened the allen head bolt holding the lever in place and then tightened the nut on the other end. With it freed up a little like that, the spring in the M/C is enough to push it back after it is depressed.

Which of the boxes on the left side panel controls the Vboost? I removed the rear-most one to mount my R1 R/R and tucked it in behind the panel (I has room in there because I've remover the coils (COPs)). Perhaps the connection came loose when I relocated it. I'll check it today.

i dunno about no oil, but u should be able to put it in gear w/out clutch fluid, ull have to turn the tire in the middle of its two stop points though. i can't imagine it'd hurt it too much w/out oil tho, but don't take my word for it.

i believe the rear most panel is the vboost controller.

 

[[email protected]]

The rear most box on the left panel IS for v boost.

My clymers manuals says that the early model vmaxes do not have a spring in the lever that NG is talking about. Can't verify that though cause my 06 does :confused2:

 

[yukonerdave]

2 replies in 15 minutes...

 

[[email protected]]

No worries about no oil right now. You can move the shifter wherever you want. Just don't ride it like that :biglaugh:

 

[spursmech]

unk: Dave, sounds like you did not get the drive shaft into the u-joint in the swing arm? Are you using the old brake pads? If so they will have a different angle than the new calipers on the rotors. I just Chromed my lowers and had the same problem, about 15 miles later no problems. Good luck, Spur

 

[yukonerdave]

OK I fixed some problems and created/discovered a couple others. Here's what I need some input on:

1. I'm getting some real loud backfiring just at idle. Acceleration is ok and its even fine when twisting the throttle closed, but once I stop and just let it idle, it starts banging real loud every 5-10 seconds. I have a full HMF exhaust, I've synched the carbs, and I have pilot screws set at 2 full turns. I had them all at 2 1/4 but had the same backfiring.

2. I've got no brakes! I put in Busa calipers all around (rear as well) with SS lines so they should be gripping like nothing, right? Nope. I've bled the front brakes several times over and I am almost 100% confident that there is no air in the system. I rebuilt the master cylinder and ensured everything was put together correctly. I checked all of the banjo bolts and ensured that there are no leaks. The lever will move the pistons, the brake will contact the rotor, it will grab it hard enough that I can't spin the wheel by hand when it is on a jack, but it won't grip any tighter. It is barely enough to even slow the bike down at 10 mph. Rear brake is the same way. I did separate the calipers to shave off a bit where they were rubbing the rotor, but I'm sure I put them back together the same way I took them apart. Any other ideas? It feels as if I had a real shitty rubber brake line that was just bulging after the pads contact the rotor, but of course they are new SS lines.

 

[gamorg02]

1 - i would see if you can get an a/f sniffer. my rear carbs had to be set about 2-3 more turns out than the fronts

2 - can you grip the handle to the bar? Like does the lever keep having more and more play or does it stop where it should and its just not braking very well?

 

[yukonerdave]

The pads grip enough to stop the wheel from free spinning when it is jacked up with the lever about 1/4 of the way to the handlebar. I can squeeze the lever all the way to the bar. It gets progressively stiffer as I pull it.

Basically, I think the pads are gripping at the right spot, but I'm just not getting enough pressure after that point.

 

[one2dmax]

You may need to seat the brakes in. The travel will be more and the harder you pull it the more it will grab. It won't slow down even with brakes fully applied???

Sean

 

[poppop]

i belive you have a exaust leak .your not complaning about a miss,just a pop out your pipe cap a rag over exuast the pipe outlet and check for noise near where they bolt up at the head ,or remove the air box squirt a little oil in the carbs one at a time look for smoke to come out of the head area when you hit the right one hopefully smoke will leak out around where it bolts to the head,hopfully the brakes are a little eaiser air bubbles float up try back bleeding espeicly your front i hope this helps you can also pinch your rubber brake lines shut with a pair of small vise grips to narrow the problem down i can be more spific if you need good luck e mail me if you need sorry about my spelling im not drinking just tired poppop:ummm:

 

[poppop]

i belive you have a exaust leak .your not complaning about a miss,just a pop out your pipe cap a rag over exuast the pipe outlet and check for noise near where they bolt up at the head ,or remove the air box squirt a little oil in the carbs one at a time look for smoke to come out of the head area when you hit the right one hopefully smoke will leak out around where it bolts to the head,hopfully the brakes are a little eaiser air bubbles float up try back bleeding espeicly your front i hope this helps you can also pinch your rubber brake lines shut with a pair of small vise grips to narrow the problem down i can be more spific if you need good luck e mail me if you need sorry about my spelling im not drinking just tired poppop:ummm:

ill hush didn,t realize you had so many helping good luck poppop

 

[yukonerdave]

OK so I think I got my brakes figured out - the front ones anyway. Guess what the problem was? Same as all my problems! I'm a dumb newb - lol. The brake lever has a fine-threaded bolt that contacts the M/C. It also has a nut that threads onto the bolt. I take it that the nut goes on the MC side of the lever rather than the other end right? I had it in the wrong place, making the bolt too short when it pushed in the M/C. If someone can confirm the placement of the nut we can scratch this one off.

Rear brake (obviously) doesn't have the same problem. May well be air in that one still. I'm not able to back-bleed tht one - I did it to fill the line and the MC, but then it stopped and when I tried to push more fluid in to fill the reservoir the hose blew off of the syringe. Am I supposed to be able to back bleed the rear brake?

Poppop scores 10 points on the backfire - one of the nuts was a real PITA to get at on the new system and the rear header wasn't properly seated. I can't confirm this entirely yet (as I need a new batt to start it), but it seems to fit.

I'm getting there... Thanks so much for all the help guys.

 

[gamorg02]

OK so I think I got my brakes figured out - the front ones anyway. Guess what the problem was? Same as all my problems! I'm a dumb newb - lol. The brake lever has a fine-threaded bolt that contacts the M/C. It also has a nut that threads onto the bolt. I take it that the nut goes on the MC side of the lever rather than the other end right? I had it in the wrong place, making the bolt too short when it pushed in the M/C. If someone can confirm the placement of the nut we can scratch this one off.

Rear brake (obviously) doesn't have the same problem. May well be air in that one still. I'm not able to back-bleed tht one - I did it to fill the line and the MC, but then it stopped and when I tried to push more fluid in to fill the reservoir the hose blew off of the syringe. Am I supposed to be able to back bleed the rear brake?

Poppop scores 10 points on the backfire - one of the nuts was a real PITA to get at on the new system and the rear header wasn't properly seated. I can't confirm this entirely yet (as I need a new batt to start it), but it seems to fit.

I'm getting there... Thanks so much for all the help guys.

my levers have always been the way you had them with the nut further away from the m/c.

like the below pic. sorry i know that doesn't help. not sure what, if any harm it could do your way.

 

[vmaxcruzer]

The nut is a jam nut designed to hold the screw at adjustment. It goes on the M/C side. Once you screw in the bolt to the throw you like on the lever, tighten down the nut to hold it there.

I can send a pic if you need. Let me know.

 

[gamorg02]

i figured it could be used on both sides, right? wonder why the microfiche shows it on the non-m/c side.

 

[dannymax]

The nut is a jam nut designed to hold the screw at adjustment. It goes on the M/C side. Once you screw in the bolt to the throw you like on the lever, tighten down the nut to hold it there.

I can send a pic if you need. Let me know.

It prolly doesn't matter which side the jam nut is on but it's s'posed to be on the M/C side like he^said! :biglaugh:

If the bolt has to be screwed so far in that there is no room for the jam nut on the M/C side, then I think somethin' is still off.