07 Max Trapps

[briggza]

I just put a set of Supertrapp Megaphone slip-ons put on my bike (9 discs per side) and installed a K&N filter. The dealer told me I should jet the bike so when it went in for service they installed a Dynojet jet kit with 170 main jets. The problem is the bike has lost its acceleration in the upper gears. When accelerating in 4th gear anwhere from 40-60 mph the bike misses and pops. The dealer says there is no problem (right). If anyone has any experience with these pipes and getting the bike running smooth again I would really apreciate it.

 

[RagingMain]

Stage one kits with slip ons usually makes the bike run rich and in your case that sounds exactly like what has happened.

In all honestly slips ons and a K&N dont let your bike breath much better than stock. It is not the air filter that is the restriction on our bikes, it is the Y on top of the air box. With that said, DO NOT just remove the Y. If anything just shim it up a bit, about 3/16" or so. Same with the slipons, the major restriction on the exhaust is the headers. Slipons just sound better.

I would ask the dealer if they have your original needles and depending on your elevation drop your mains at least back to stock if not one size smaller.

The Dynojet 170s are just a tad bigger than mikunis 157s. Stock on your bike is either 150 or 152. So without much increase in airflow you have have gone up 2-3 sizes in your mains. Hence your problems.
Hope this helps
Cheers

 

[gamorg02]

hey fargo, isn't the popping a sign of leanness?

 

[RagingMain]

hey fargo, isn't the popping a sign of leanness?

Surging and popping yes. Also the popping on decel is a sign of leaness.
I would definately go back to stock and see what happens.
Slips ons really dont open the bike at all.

 

[Mitchell]

I just put a set of Supertrapp Megaphone slip-ons put on my bike (9 discs per side) and installed a K&N filter. The dealer told me I should jet the bike so when it went in for service they installed a Dynojet jet kit with 170 main jets. The problem is the bike has lost its acceleration in the upper gears. When accelerating in 4th gear anwhere from 40-60 mph the bike misses and pops. The dealer says there is no problem (right). If anyone has any experience with these pipes and getting the bike running smooth again I would really apreciate it.

Fargo is dead on. Your runnin way too rich.

No offense, but don't go back to that dealer unless they plan to install the "right" main jets. Or pull the carbs yourself "its not rocket science" and change the mains to 147.5's

I have a K&N w/trapps with 8 discs and adjustable end caps and it runs perfect! Throttle response is like EFI. Good Luck:eusa_dance:

 

[KJShover]

Fargo is dead on. Your runnin way too rich.

No offense, but don't go back to that dealer unless they plan to install the "right" main jets. Or pull the carbs yourself "its not rocket science" and change the mains to 147.5's

I have a K&N w/trapps with 8 discs and adjustable end caps and it runs perfect! Throttle response is like EFI. Good Luck:eusa_dance:

+1 DON'T GO BACK!!! unless it's to bitch and get your money back for the re-jetting.

I ran trapps with 12 discs, K&N and 147.5's did the trick. It's easy to change your jets.

Right here will guide you through it.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3570

 

[veebooster]

Stock bike with trapps = 9 or 10 discs, shim Y a tad, tweak the A/F screws abit out and it'll run great! That was my setup about 800' elevation. Get about 180 km per tank. You are rich!

Dale #2592

 

[briggza]

Thanks for all the advice. I'll get her set up and back on the road.

 

[vmax docker]

My 01 Max has supertrapps also. I shimmed the needles with #6 brass washers (Home Depot) and removed the tamper proof plugs and set the fuel screws at 3.25 turns out. No other mods and it's tits-on. If I put a less restrictive exhaust on I'm sure I'd have to go richer on the mains but as previously mentioned the Supertrapps don't reduce flow much over stock. Im curious as to which bonehead dealer you dealt with.
Cheers
BT Price

 

[veebooster]

Most dealers know squat about the Vmax. Learn to do maintenance yourself with help of other Maxers. There is more collective knowledge on this board than all the dealers combined!!

Dale #2592

 

[one2dmax]

Most times a less restrictive exhaust on the vmax with the same intake style (filter type does not matter) the jet size actually needs to be reduced not increased. Until they learn how the induction system works on the vmax they need to quit suggesting kits to anyone.

147.5 - 150's for about any aftermarket exhaust with normal jet kits. Our kits normally need larger mains but we drastically modify the intake system.

Sean Morley

 

[the06vmaxer]

I got a '06. Supertrapps, with 8 discs. K+N. A/F screws at 3/3.5 I found the throttle response way better compared to stock. Alot more crisp and "Right Now"

That being said, when I drilled out those brass plugs to get to my A/F screws, everyone was set differently, from 0.5 all the way up to 2. So that was huge. Certainly glad I opened them up.

My supertrapps were popping and farting on decel. After opening up the A/F screws runs, and sounds way better.

However Sean has lots of credibilty here, so this was just my experience.

I was just after a better sound, I am happy with the performance(for now lol), however each to there own. Hope you get it figured out.

 

[naughtyG]

I really wish I could find an easy an reliable way to set the AF screws optimally.

I don't believe that simply turning them all to the same setting is actually right - the air/fuel mixture surely changes from carb to carb and also from cylinder to cylinder, right?

 

[KJShover]

I really wish I could find an easy an reliable way to set the AF screws optimally.

I don't believe that simply turning them all to the same setting is actually right - the air/fuel mixture surely changes from carb to carb and also from cylinder to cylinder, right?

What I did with mine was; got the bike at idle. Then I started screwing in the A/F screws until the cyl died. then I would back it out until it fired, then went 1/4 more.

For me this method seemed to have worked better than when I had them all backed out the same amount.

 

[naughtyG]

What I did with mine was; got the bike at idle. Then I started screwing in the A/F screws until the cyl died. then I would back it out until it fired, then went 1/4 more.

For me this method seemed to have worked better than when I had them all backed out the same amount.

how can you tell when that cylinder dies, and then fires again? I have a real problem working out what's happening to one cylinder at idle with another 3 running.. :ummm:

 

[KJShover]

how can you tell when that cylinder dies, and then fires again? I have a real problem working out what's happening to one cylinder at idle with another 3 running.. :ummm:

Give it a little blurp of the throttle and you can hear it better. It won't be as smooth of running at all. I would make it out with the stock pipes, but with the kerker not any more.

Once I get it all set and running, I take it for a seat of the pants run and adjust a 1/4 turn up from there. It's not the quickest way of doing it, but it works for me.

A friend of mine had an idea of using a mechanic's stethascope and/or a laser thermometer to monitor the cyls to see when they are firing but I haven't done that yet.

 

[KJShover]

Here is a neat little article, I dunno if you've seen it or if it will help for that matter. but its a good look-see

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/2476/basics.htm

 

[gamorg02]

thats what i have heard as well. stethoscope to hear it and right in between.

if u have a dyno shop near by, they can do it with the 02 sensor. thats how mine were done.

they are ALL all over the place. between 2 and 5.5 turns.