The flames are decals?
2005 Resurrection
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DirtieGirtie
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Yes, the flames are decals. I clear coat over them. Done it on several bikes now.
I have a decal cutter at home so I can turn just about any simple 2-color image into a decal... my wife got it for me about 3 years ago and I haven't stopped using it since!
I have a decal cutter at home so I can turn just about any simple 2-color image into a decal... my wife got it for me about 3 years ago and I haven't stopped using it since!
I bet your refrigerator door looks wild!
DirtieGirtie
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DirtieGirtie
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I got the fenders on and popped the faux tank on for a few pics.
Next up is to put the clutch MC back together and mount it. Then onto the carbs!
Next up is to put the clutch MC back together and mount it. Then onto the carbs!
The frame and the engine are both a light grey? That looks good.
DirtieGirtie
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It's probably just my horrible photography skills, LOL! They are the stock dark grey found on 2005's. The left side picture is probably more representative of reality.
I like those black Supertrapp muffs.
I keep thinking of doing something besides the OEM black engine and frame on a bike. like the early Honda 305 Superhawks had, a red frame, swingarm, and gas tank and silver engine, side covers and fenders.
DirtieGirtie
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I took the air box off and thought I should snap a pic before getting the carbs off. This poor bike... She's seen some things.
DirtieGirtie
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They don't call you DirtieGirtie fer nothin' 
DirtieGirtie
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Got the carbs out without issue.
My first observation was that the choke arm wasn't working. After I got it out I checked all the individual enrichment plungers... they all slide nice and easy... but the metal rods connecting them all need a thorough cleaning.
I started taking the first carb apart and found what I thought was gasket sealer on both the diaphragm side and bowl side. It seemed a little excessive, but not like it was just straight up silicone... or was it?
I began scratching my head when I had to remove the idle mixture screw... where was the hole? I poked where the hole was supposed to be and my pick when into a soft material... for some reason the previous person that took these carbs apart filled the idle screw holes with silicone and made it nice and neatly flat with the surrounding area. I had to use a drill bit turned by hand to dig the silicone out. WTF?
Then I took the idle screw out. The screw and the spring came out... so I have to assume the washer and o-ring are just stuck in the barrel which is pretty common. Nope! There is no washer! There is no o-ring! My guess is the carbs were leaking gas (because they were put together wrong/missing parts) and the guys just shot silicone into the holes where gas was coming out. Grrr!!!
Surely that's the weirdest thing I'll encounter in these carbs...
But wait, there's more!!!
In the first carb I found PAJ1 and PAJ2 both seemed to have a marking of "80" (confirmed by my daughter with much better eyesight than mine). So I took the diaphragm out of the second carb and pulled that jet... it had "50" on it. I'm not dealing with unknown jets of unknown origin so I ordered real Mikuni jets from JetsRUs.
I'll post a pic of the needle tonight. It occurred to me that I might be dealing with the dreaded "Stage 1" or something. Hopefully the needles are stock.
Now the real fun begins!!!
My first observation was that the choke arm wasn't working. After I got it out I checked all the individual enrichment plungers... they all slide nice and easy... but the metal rods connecting them all need a thorough cleaning.
I started taking the first carb apart and found what I thought was gasket sealer on both the diaphragm side and bowl side. It seemed a little excessive, but not like it was just straight up silicone... or was it?
I began scratching my head when I had to remove the idle mixture screw... where was the hole? I poked where the hole was supposed to be and my pick when into a soft material... for some reason the previous person that took these carbs apart filled the idle screw holes with silicone and made it nice and neatly flat with the surrounding area. I had to use a drill bit turned by hand to dig the silicone out. WTF?
Then I took the idle screw out. The screw and the spring came out... so I have to assume the washer and o-ring are just stuck in the barrel which is pretty common. Nope! There is no washer! There is no o-ring! My guess is the carbs were leaking gas (because they were put together wrong/missing parts) and the guys just shot silicone into the holes where gas was coming out. Grrr!!!
Surely that's the weirdest thing I'll encounter in these carbs...
But wait, there's more!!!
In the first carb I found PAJ1 and PAJ2 both seemed to have a marking of "80" (confirmed by my daughter with much better eyesight than mine). So I took the diaphragm out of the second carb and pulled that jet... it had "50" on it. I'm not dealing with unknown jets of unknown origin so I ordered real Mikuni jets from JetsRUs.
I'll post a pic of the needle tonight. It occurred to me that I might be dealing with the dreaded "Stage 1" or something. Hopefully the needles are stock.
Now the real fun begins!!!
DirtieGirtie
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Got two of the carbs cleaned. No hurry as I'm still waiting for parts to arrive. Thought y'all might want to see some before and after carb porn.
DirtieGirtie
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I... FINALLY... finished the carbs. Here's a before and after of the carb bank. Hopefully you can see the tiny difference in cleanliness.
DirtieGirtie
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And after putting the carbs back on and finally putting a bit of new gas in her, she fired right up!!!
The pull side throttle cable like a bit frayed so I replaced those with new parts as well.
The pull side throttle cable like a bit frayed so I replaced those with new parts as well.
Thanks for the commentary and the pics. Your results may encourage others to study the threads about a job like the carbs, and to save $$$ by preparing the carbs, taking lots of pictures to guide their disassembly and the ensuing reassembly.
When are you buying a magnifying glass or a bench-mount one w/a light? Those are a great tool to help you see things, and to search for problems.
Here's one I got years ago, very useful. It does a good job of magnification on things you have difficulty seeing w/ the naked eye.
I also have one mounted to my workbench, similar, but w/o the floorstand. I put a bronze bushing into the workbench top by the vise, and that illuminated magnifying instrument gets used all the time. The floor model I can roll it to wherever I need to see something, like on a bike or a vehicle for a hands-free view up-close.
When are you buying a magnifying glass or a bench-mount one w/a light? Those are a great tool to help you see things, and to search for problems.
Here's one I got years ago, very useful. It does a good job of magnification on things you have difficulty seeing w/ the naked eye.
I also have one mounted to my workbench, similar, but w/o the floorstand. I put a bronze bushing into the workbench top by the vise, and that illuminated magnifying instrument gets used all the time. The floor model I can roll it to wherever I need to see something, like on a bike or a vehicle for a hands-free view up-close.
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DirtieGirtie
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EXPERT HELP REQUESTED!
She's all back together, but I have a problem with the clutch. Here is what I am experiencing:
1. Start bike
2. Pull in clutch
3. Put into 1'st gear
-For the next step I want to explain that I am calling "0% engaged" the fully released point when your hand is not even on the clutch lever, and "100% engaged" the point where the clutch lever is pulled all the way in by your hand and is now close/touching the grip.
4. As I let out the clutch the engine doesn't grab till the lever is almost all the way out, probably around the 5% engaged point (right at the end).
5. The clutch is grabbing to the point that you can ride it (technically) but anything over the slightest throttle and the clutch doesn't grab at all.
- If you put it in gear and release the clutch while holding the front brake, she will stall out, so the clutch is trying to catch. But it's like it needs more 'throw'.
I rebuilt the master cylinder. I flushed the slave cylinder (probably a lot more than needed) but did not rebuild/replace the slave cylinder.
Is there any chance this is a hydraulic issue and replacing the slave cylinder will fix it? I don't think so as I think a hydraulic issue would have the opposite affect; the clutch would disengage/engage with the lever 90 or 95% pulled in... but I'm having a brain fart... hoping one of you experts can send me in the right direction.
She's all back together, but I have a problem with the clutch. Here is what I am experiencing:
1. Start bike
2. Pull in clutch
3. Put into 1'st gear
-For the next step I want to explain that I am calling "0% engaged" the fully released point when your hand is not even on the clutch lever, and "100% engaged" the point where the clutch lever is pulled all the way in by your hand and is now close/touching the grip.
4. As I let out the clutch the engine doesn't grab till the lever is almost all the way out, probably around the 5% engaged point (right at the end).
5. The clutch is grabbing to the point that you can ride it (technically) but anything over the slightest throttle and the clutch doesn't grab at all.
- If you put it in gear and release the clutch while holding the front brake, she will stall out, so the clutch is trying to catch. But it's like it needs more 'throw'.
I rebuilt the master cylinder. I flushed the slave cylinder (probably a lot more than needed) but did not rebuild/replace the slave cylinder.
Is there any chance this is a hydraulic issue and replacing the slave cylinder will fix it? I don't think so as I think a hydraulic issue would have the opposite affect; the clutch would disengage/engage with the lever 90 or 95% pulled in... but I'm having a brain fart... hoping one of you experts can send me in the right direction.
Your description sounds like it's not fully-bled (the clutch).
D.G.: As I let out the clutch the engine doesn't grab till the lever is almost all the way out
What method are you using to bleed the system? I prefer the reverse-bleed, especially for the clutch, you push fluid IN with a syringe at the slave cyl. The fluid moves upward to the clutch master cyl. It pushes air with it, any that is trapped along the way. Be careful as you do not want the master cyl to overflow. I do it w/the master cyl cap off, so I can monitor the level of brake fluid.
I'd take a look at the slave cyl off the bike, if you try the reverse-bleed, and your issue persists. It's held-in by 2 allen head screws. Use a 3/8" square drive socket for the proper allen head size, it makes it very easy to remove/replace the allen head screws. Once you remove the slave cyl, if it's leaking, you will see crystallized gobs of brake fluid behind the slave cyl. The slave cyl is not hard to clean, and the rebuild kits are not expensive.
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/
The pics aren't in the paragraphs, a victim of picture-hosting issues. They are at the end of the written description though.
D.G.: As I let out the clutch the engine doesn't grab till the lever is almost all the way out
What method are you using to bleed the system? I prefer the reverse-bleed, especially for the clutch, you push fluid IN with a syringe at the slave cyl. The fluid moves upward to the clutch master cyl. It pushes air with it, any that is trapped along the way. Be careful as you do not want the master cyl to overflow. I do it w/the master cyl cap off, so I can monitor the level of brake fluid.
I'd take a look at the slave cyl off the bike, if you try the reverse-bleed, and your issue persists. It's held-in by 2 allen head screws. Use a 3/8" square drive socket for the proper allen head size, it makes it very easy to remove/replace the allen head screws. Once you remove the slave cyl, if it's leaking, you will see crystallized gobs of brake fluid behind the slave cyl. The slave cyl is not hard to clean, and the rebuild kits are not expensive.
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/
The pics aren't in the paragraphs, a victim of picture-hosting issues. They are at the end of the written description though.
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Seems to me that air in the line would prevent the cluch from disengaging (to me, slipping is disengaging).
The problem is the clutch is not full engaging (grabbing).
It means smething is preventing the system from relaxing to the rest state. It might be the slave is sticky. It might be the spooge hole in the MC is plugged. It might be ?
The problem is the clutch is not full engaging (grabbing).
It means smething is preventing the system from relaxing to the rest state. It might be the slave is sticky. It might be the spooge hole in the MC is plugged. It might be ?
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