davidon
Well-Known Member
Need advice on a system replacement. AC crapped out yesterday..today is hottest day of the year and a day before I was leaving for NH:bang head: Have to delay departure now.
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midmoraider
Well-Known Member
Used to install 'em, now I sell 'em. What do you want to know? Actually, pm me and I'll give you my number. Thad.
I used to install residential over 10 years ago. But I don't know the latest working for the state now. DuPont patented all their new ozone safe refrigerants right as the old patents were expiring and keep developing new ones. What do you need to know? Biggest mistake is to oversize. I went from a 4 ton to a 2.5 which runs non stop on super hot days.
sdt354
Well-Known Member
pm'd ya
I replaced mine last yr, it was overdue. Comparison of electric bills from the prior summer Aug. to this past yr., the bill went from $284 to $130! I installed a Bryant SEER of 21 and am very pleased w/it. It is making summer mo. here much more enjoyable.
Yup. Mine dropped from 20 amps to 9. I wish I would have looked into geo thermal though.
davidon
Well-Known Member
I'm only set up to get a 13 SEER but Midmo said to look into a 14 SEER if there is'nt much price difference..also to check if warranties are diff for 13 vs 14...
I installed a 3 ton coil on a 2.5 condenser. A smaller orifice on the metering device is the only change.
If your a/c cycled on the hottest days, your over sized and not removing as much humidity as you could.
Dont let them install a new condenser on a burn out (acidic) situation with out triple evac and the proper filters.
And remember: "It's hard to stop a Trane". Least ways, that's what the two hundred million commercials around here say every day.
disclaimer: I don't own a Trane brand A/C unit. Never owned a Trane. Can't say if I ever will own a Trane.
disclaimer: I don't own a Trane brand A/C unit. Never owned a Trane. Can't say if I ever will own a Trane.
sdt354
Well-Known Member
Good point on the sizing for humidity. His system is flat, hope the compressor didn't blow or the flushing triple vac will have to happen. I hope the responding tech filled that system with 200-250psi Nitrogen to quick id the leak. The line set could be older than the unit. Shraders are cheap to fix too. Just my 2 cents.
Steve-o
I bet money any condenser you buy these days has a copeland compressor. Not much difference cept the name plate.
Carrier used to make nice furnaces. Now there all junk.
davidon
Well-Known Member
How does the nitro detect the leak?
davidon
Well-Known Member
Ahh just read up on it...he did not do it ...
unk: Hey, Buy a Trane or Carrier that uses the new R-410a Freon. Buy as high a SEER as you want 15 to 19 is good. My last house had a 5 - ton trane and it never needed a thing and I lived there for 17 years. In Arizona our units run wide open for 6 - 9 months a year. If you buy the cheaper units they make a lot of noise. Good Luck, Sourswarp1
Member
Just be careful with the SEER rating. That number is impossible to calculate and was determined in the lab. In your house...your copper freon lines might be undersized, ductwork leaky etc...and you won't get near the advertised performance....and the problem is you can't prove it, the equation is 8 pages long
I installed Rheem/Ruud. Good solid systems and easy to service (why I picked them). Carrier/Bryant both good as well as Trane...but pricier for all the gadgets they push on you. Not a fan of Lennox due to proprietary price support.
My recommendations ... pick a reasonable SEER (nothing wrong with 13):
- Make sure it's sized right (key for humidity removal) and as mentioned...should run continuously on the hottest days for your area.
- get a variable speed blower on your air handler....can make up for undersized ductwork and still provide your desired air flow. One of my favorite tricks was to install a 2 stage thermostat...so it started your variable speed on low for the first five minutes (MAX humidity removal) and then kicked to high to finish cooling your house.
- Mount the condenser high enough to avoid grass clippings etc...keeping it clean is the only maintenance you really need to do on an AC system (other than keeping you filter clean.
Good luck
I installed Rheem/Ruud. Good solid systems and easy to service (why I picked them). Carrier/Bryant both good as well as Trane...but pricier for all the gadgets they push on you. Not a fan of Lennox due to proprietary price support.
My recommendations ... pick a reasonable SEER (nothing wrong with 13):
- Make sure it's sized right (key for humidity removal) and as mentioned...should run continuously on the hottest days for your area.
- get a variable speed blower on your air handler....can make up for undersized ductwork and still provide your desired air flow. One of my favorite tricks was to install a 2 stage thermostat...so it started your variable speed on low for the first five minutes (MAX humidity removal) and then kicked to high to finish cooling your house.
- Mount the condenser high enough to avoid grass clippings etc...keeping it clean is the only maintenance you really need to do on an AC system (other than keeping you filter clean.
Good luck
Rollie
Well-Known Member
What is the most effective way to clean the ducts ?
I think there used to be a gut here that could suck all the slime out of them by mouth & :rofl_200
ass it back out but he got banned
sdt354
Well-Known Member
The nitrogen pressurizes the system enough to hear the leak, allow soap solution to be applied, and if mixed with just a little Freon an electronic detector will work. What we did on new installs was, pressurize the system to exactly 200 psi, then go to lunch. If still at 200 psi we?d finish the install. Nitrogen is inert and won't change pressure with temp changes like Freon does. Some people like it in tires instead of air. Not sure if it's widely used on motorcycle tires.
Steve-o
warp1
Member
A point of contention among HVAC people (kind of like oil type is here
). My personal opinion is duct cleaning is just a waste of money.Spend the $ instead on getting the ductwork balanced (right CFM to each room), fixing any leaks (found during balancing or with smoke tube), and maybe setting up a fresh air intake to your ductwork (keeps house from drawing a negative pressure and pulling in unfiltered/unconditioned air).
Again....just my .02.
Bill
sdt354
Well-Known Member
Like that old song-nobodyyyy knowwwwws..............................lolI think there used to be a gut here that could suck all the slime out of them by mouth & :rofl_200
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