Are the Rotor Bolts made out a Chesse

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He's using a Snappy allen wrench which is on a socket base (unk. 3/8" or 1/2") w/a hand impact driver and is seeing that the allen head of the brake rotor has stripped-out. He's asking, "how do I remove the button-head allen screws?"

A. remove the tire stem valve, EMPTY tire NOT under pressure! Use heat to soften any thread locker. Either cut a head w/a slot and try using your hand impact w/a tight-fitting bit or just use a small cold chisel to loosen the screw. Drive the screw in a left-handed direction, of course.

Alternatively, weld a nut onto the head, and use a socket to remove it, The heat from welding should loosen any thread locker, or a tightly-torqued fastener.

Send us pictures so we can see your good work. Describe which way you chose to go.
 
He's using a Snappy allen wrench which is on a socket base (unk. 3/8" or 1/2") w/a hand impact driver and is seeing that the allen head of the brake rotor has stripped-out. He's asking, "how do I remove the button-head allen screws?"
It's a shame the OP couldn't put it as succinctly.

An alternative method would be to hammer a Torx bit into the rounded hex or use a LH drill.
 
hammer a Torx bit into the rounded hex
Whilst there's more-than one way to skin an opossum, intentionally mangling a tool in such fashion, is reason-enough to send me into paroxysms of fear at the debasement of such a utilitarian piece of kit, not-deserving of that rough-trade. Be kind to your tools. A sacrificial piece (the torx bit) may itself fail from that heavy-handed treatment.

Hast thou embraced success using a left-handed bit for the rotor button-head screws? I myself reply 'nay.' No-such luck for this prole. The cold chisel has worked a treat, however. Having completed life's labour attacking all such fasteners, whence-comes success, I treat my tastebuds to one of Dublin's best-known liquid refreshments.

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It's a shame the OP couldn't put it as succinctly.

An alternative method would be to hammer a Torx bit into the rounded hex or use a LH drill.
Ps in about 2 maybe 3 years my brain will be a empty Ballon, 39 hypoxia attacks in 10, MAYO has a policy after a certain number they talk in porcentage (i'm at 35% now

Torx, Great idea, I already forgot more than I ever learn

gracias
 
Whilst there's more-than one way to skin an opossum, intentionally mangling a tool in such fashion, is reason-enough to send me into paroxysms of fear at the debasement of such a utilitarian piece of kit, not-deserving of that rough-trade. Be kind to your tools. A sacrificial piece (the torx bit) may itself fail from that heavy-handed treatment.

Hast thou embraced success using a left-handed bit for the rotor button-head screws? I myself reply 'nay.' No-such luck for this prole. The cold chisel has worked a treat, however. Having completed life's labour attacking all such fasteners, whence-comes success, I treat my tastebuds to one of Dublin's best-known liquid refreshments.

My Torx are all lifetime guaranteed and they get used quite often for rotor bolt removal. It's one of the best things I have found .
 
I have not had any issues since swapping to the hammer strike impact with apex socket to at least crack it loose. Not everyone understands how a hammer strike type impact actually works.
 
Not everyone understands how a hammer strike type impact actually works.
I pre-load mine in the left direction and re-set it after every strike. I still have faith in heat giving the screws in the wheel for the rotors the best chance of easily releasing their grip. But remove the valve core before using any heat!
 
Dremel a screwdriver slot, apply some heat, use the appropriate socket in your impact tool set, pre-load to the left (Good tip FM) and tap it out.

Lots of horror stories out there about hammer strike impacts...don't believe them! Learn how to use the tool properly and you'll never have a problem.

The cold chisel method is very reliable also.
 
My Dremel is an indispensable tool for things like removing tough to remove fasteners. It's helped me many times where things came to a halt while I debated how to proceed. Sometimes it's in a tough-to-reach location, sometimes it's easy to reach, but the other items surrounding it make a smaller tool necessary (float bowl screws). Sometimes it's doing the least damage to the part, while removing the fastener (those pesky master cyl. screws for the cap).

Sure anything you want/need to accomplish has multiple ways to get things done, but 30 seconds using an easy to set-up Dremel and a fiber-reinforced abrasive disc is an expedient way to proceed.

I want to put into the commentary on the use of any high-speed rotary cutting tool to always wear safety glasses or better yet, a full face coverage OSHA approved shield! Using the correct PPE has saved me trauma. "Oh I only have to do one 1/2" slot, I don't need any eye protection!"

1700060309162.png
 
It's a shame the OP couldn't put it as succinctly.

An alternative method would be to hammer a Torx bit into the rounded hex or use a LH drill.
Torx, that's my first attempt, after the Allen socket and hand impact. Heat is your friend, right from the beginning. Loctite I wouldn't be inclined to use on Rotor bolts. I've never seen a loose one.
 

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