Battery dead

[royston]

Hi Guys,
Just wanted to check on any other thoughts you might have, i have posted this on a UK, 'max forum also, more thoughts the better ?
I collected a new (to me) 2006 max last week low miles (7k) seemengly excellent nick etc, 200+ mile ride home all good, went out again midweek all good, the yesterday... Switched ignition on as usual waited for the boost etc, all good, pressed the starter then nothing, no lights etc bugger all, first thoughts was a fuse so took bits off today checked battery terminals, fuses, gereal wiring condition battery to ignition all good and still nothing when I turn the key not one light...put the battery on charge and got a red on the charging unit so i'm thinking battery is totally kaput or ignition barrel has a problem, think the latter is unlikely but it surprises me that the battery went dead completely so fast to the point I dont even get a glow from one of the lights ....there are no alarms etc atteched to the bike that might have caused a drain....
Opinions appreciated .
Cheers
R

 

[KosRider]

Royston,
welcome to the "North America" VMF ! I too have an 06 and just had to replace the original "wet" stock battery last month. It too went quickly; held a charge one day, dead the next. Wet type batterys have a typical life of 4 - 6 years. Went with the Odyssey PC680, ( a drycell sealed design type of battery) as many on this has recommended, and it's great. With a V-Max, a good battery is a must !

Most likely, your battery is probably on it's last legs. With a new one in place, you can use a voltmeter across the leads, with the engine running, to check the charge voltage being produced. There are other things you can do to make sure the charging circuit is operating at it's max potential; check the posts in the electrial section for the "crimp fix" and adding an additional ground wire to the rectifier assembly. I did both of these to my 06 to insure no future problems.

Good Luck !

 

[Buster Hymen]

I agree with KosRider. If you are getting a proper charge voltage when it is running, then the issue is the battery.

 

[royston]

Thanks for the thoughts guys, battery replaced, (what a pain to remove), bingo - starts on the button....
Cheers
R

 

[Ridin Dirty]

I'd switch the running/brake/signals to LED's, and use a electronic flasher not resistance wire s( to fix the blink rate). The conversion is well documented on the site. You can get LED disks that drop into the stock buckets.

This frees up a lot of juice to keep the battery charged.

 

[royston]

I'd switch the running/brake/signals to LED's, and use a electronic flasher not resistance wire s( to fix the blink rate). The conversion is well documented on the site. You can get LED disks that drop into the stock buckets.

This frees up a lot of juice to keep the battery charged.

thanks, i will do a serch for the conversion mod..
all the best,
R

 

[Miles Long]

I'd switch the running/brake/signals to LED's, and use a electronic flasher not resistance wire s( to fix the blink rate). The conversion is well documented on the site. You can get LED disks that drop into the stock buckets.

This frees up a lot of juice to keep the battery charged.

Which "LED disks" did you install, Mr. Dirty? Could you provide a link, please?
I've tried #1157 LED bulbs (cheap ones, admittingly), and wasn't impressed. From what I've read, LED bulbs have to be used with LED-specific reflectors.
Of course another option would be to replace the signal lights with LED aftermarket units, but I'm kind of fond of the stock look.
Sorry if I highjacked this battery thread, perhaps the Moderator will move my question to the Electrical section?
Cheers, Miles