The guy I bought my vmax from said he just put new tires on it, it had 6500 miles on it. Anyway, he said the tires are "H" rated instead of "V" rated. I think "H" rated tires are rated for 130mph and "V" rated are rated for 150 mph. My bike wobbles at 125mph but I don't think its the tires??? I read where "H" rated tires were run at 200mph to see when they seperated. So do you think the "H" rated tires are causing me problems????:bang head:
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vmax1125
Well-Known Member
when you say wobbles do you mean the front end shakes. i have an 06' and my cousin also has the same at about 90mph the front started shaking common problem. i replaced the fork springs with racetech springs and added emulators also lowered the front and replaced the stock fork brace with a heafty aftermarket one. i had the max to about 120 since its shake free. go into the suspension section and read up on all the upgrades we all have done to cure this problem.
Chris
unk:
Chris
unk:dont think spending all that time and money is the answer to the problem .. many owners bikes are in stock form with no problem at all.. my 06 has no problem at all with wobble, shake, flex.ect....JD what year is your max
vmax1125
Well-Known Member
two 06's with bad shakes over 90 mph with less than a 1000 miles on each its a fork issue and i dont know which item fixed it but its gone now. the time and money is well worth it if it takes care of the problem and you gain amuch better ride with some aesthetics to boot. total job was under $350.00 in parts and a few hours of time also alot of well answered questions from the very helpful Vmax Forum! :worthy:
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
Before you start spending lots of cash on parts to stop a head shake. Tighten up your nuts :biglaugh:.
ok, by nuts I mean your head bolts. I ride an '07 and didn't have a lick of shake until I bounced the front end a few times. Chances are your bearings have set up a little more firm (seated) and just need to tighten up the head. You can do the Furbur fix, or just tighten things up.
Just do a search on wobble, and you will find the answer. I had a wobble once, then tightened things up and I'm now good to go over 150 on the clock.
ok, by nuts I mean your head bolts. I ride an '07 and didn't have a lick of shake until I bounced the front end a few times. Chances are your bearings have set up a little more firm (seated) and just need to tighten up the head. You can do the Furbur fix, or just tighten things up.
Just do a search on wobble, and you will find the answer. I had a wobble once, then tightened things up and I'm now good to go over 150 on the clock.
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
"H" rated tires are fine, even if you run them past 130 occasionaly, which doesn't happen much on a max.
your tires shouldn't have much to do with the shakes unless they're worn or out of balance, cupping, feathering etc.
Do the easy stuff for the shakes, 90% of it is usually head bearing and top nut adjustment.
After the easy stuff installing better front springs and emulators, fork brace, frame braces, and solid motor mounts will improve it also,
Wheels and radials are the next step, as there are no radials for the stock rear wheel diameter.
your tires shouldn't have much to do with the shakes unless they're worn or out of balance, cupping, feathering etc.
Do the easy stuff for the shakes, 90% of it is usually head bearing and top nut adjustment.
After the easy stuff installing better front springs and emulators, fork brace, frame braces, and solid motor mounts will improve it also,
Wheels and radials are the next step, as there are no radials for the stock rear wheel diameter.
I had a set of metzler 880's in "H" rating that I took 4 passes on the dyno at over 200mph and it held together. I wasn't sure it was going to though. It grew a tremendous amount!
Sean Morley
Sean Morley
I agree with KJshover. Mine is a '85 and I havent had wobbles. As soon as I purchased it I broke down the trees and steering head. Used all stock pieces and torqued everything to manufacturer specs. I added air to the forks per the manual. The only thing I did out of scope was I lowered the front end 2" because I'm 5'6". The bike handles as any other power cruiser out there. If you expect ride on a rail performance and you want to go knee dragging, you need to swap the front end out for a sport bikes and solve all the little frame flex issues. The bike was made to get you through a straight line the fastest way possible. It's like riding a see saw with a 454ci underneath it. unk:
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