carb problem?

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
If you've got metal in there it's most prolly a great idea to take at least the rocker covers off for a good inspection. Refer to my 'how to adjust your valves' thread with pics to see what needs to come off to get there.
their off .....how would find bits of metal in there:rofl_200:
 
does anybody think along the same lines as me?
in the video all the noise is the back fire up the carb
i know the compression/leak down tests came up good but,
theres two springs on each valve
if one should break it leves one to do the work of two
witch could fail under load, if not why have two?
i would like some input before i start ripping the engin apart
cheers
rick
 
well removed the sump to day
checked out the old oil there was no metal in it
droped the sump
checked out the oil left in the bottom of the sump
and found this
 

Attachments

  • sump 001.jpg
    sump 001.jpg
    44.8 KB · Views: 41
  • sump 007.jpg
    sump 007.jpg
    28.5 KB · Views: 40
  • sump 008.jpg
    sump 008.jpg
    33 KB · Views: 41
  • sump 012.jpg
    sump 012.jpg
    47 KB · Views: 40
o buy the way
the "nugget" is alloy
as the oil ring still able to do its job?
any ideas what it is?
 
you guys at a lost to?
nobody have any ideas what going on in my engine?
as NOBODY see anything like this before?
come on lads i need help here
dont think your ideas are pointless you MIGHT hold the key to this problem
cheers
Rick
 
Part of the engine casing? A long bolt over-tightened and popped a bit of the casing in on the inside?

Any photos of the cam and valves? Have a careful look for damage to the casing
 
its all taken on board lads
will have a good look round
but the head seems to be intact
i may be wrong but are the case alingment pins steel?
thanks for taking the time to try and help
thanks a gain
going to remove the engine so i can have a good look round
and seeing as all this problem is at the back pots
the rear head is coming off
wish me look[ i need it]
cheers
Rick
 
Almost looks like a spent round, small caliber. Does you engine have any cosmetic repairs that could be old bullet holes? lol

Other than that, I got no idea.
 
Almost looks like a spent round, small caliber. Does you engine have any cosmetic repairs that could be old bullet holes? lol

Other than that, I got no idea.
she lives in england.......we dont have guns ere........[yeah right]...LOL:clapping:
 
Part of the engine casing? A long bolt over-tightened and popped a bit of the casing in on the inside?

Any photos of the cam and valves? Have a careful look for damage to the casing
thats the best idea ive heard pal
and looking at it again.......you could be correct.....
now , from where did it come....?
thanks alot
Rick:punk:
 
still trying to find out where the "slug " came from
pushing i lenght of wire down the screw holes on the cases.......
took the engin out yesterday.....what a job on your own {billy no mates}
got to check out the rear head.....wish me luck
rick
 
still trying to find out where the "slug " came from
pushing i lenght of wire down the screw holes on the cases.......
took the engin out yesterday.....what a job on your own {billy no mates}
got to check out the rear head.....wish me luck
rick

Mate! What the hell happened?

I just had a look at the video 2 pages back. Yeah, that is an inlet valve being held open, no 2 ways about it.

Your leak down test showed that the valve CAN close, but for some reason it is open while the piston is moving up, thus blowing back thru the carb.

It's possibly a broken cam. It will can turn if it's broken but will jump around.
It could also just be due to a piece of shrapnel. Depending how far apart it is, check those 2 cam lobes for scoring.

Oh, hang on, hang on, you said maybe a broken spring - yeah? That would be it!!
The leak down test was false because the valve was being closed by air pressure. It will run (to a degree) like that too.

OK, heres my guess. If you haven't done it already, pull out the inlet cam on that bank and give the valves a bit of a push. And look around inside the cam covers and stuff like that for where the alloy came from.

Theres me thinking out loud...
 
Mate! What the hell happened?

I just had a look at the video 2 pages back. Yeah, that is an inlet valve being held open, no 2 ways about it.

Your leak down test showed that the valve CAN close, but for some reason it is open while the piston is moving up, thus blowing back thru the carb.

It's possibly a broken cam. It will can turn if it's broken but will jump around.
It could also just be due to a piece of shrapnel. Depending how far apart it is, check those 2 cam lobes for scoring.

Oh, hang on, hang on, you said maybe a broken spring - yeah? That would be it!!
The leak down test was false because the valve was being closed by air pressure. It will run (to a degree) like that too.

OK, heres my guess. If you haven't done it already, pull out the inlet cam on that bank and give the valves a bit of a push. And look around inside the cam covers and stuff like that for where the alloy came from.

Theres me thinking out loud...
your thinking the same as me
little hesitant because never seen anything like it before, but will get to the bottom of the problem..............[hopfully]
yes never tried to repair somthing of this magnitude before but feel thats the problem
checked out the workshop manual and it says head work should be left to the professionals so may be looking for a replacment rear head thats why ive been tring to find if theres any differences in the numbers eg R IFKOO Y2/ R IFKOO Y3.... but Sean dont think there is any differences thats more that good enough for me
thanks for taking the time to add input
cheers
Rick:punk:
 
I have seen both broken cams as well as broken springs. Usually the spring will still close the valve since there are two springs in there.

Sean
 
Back
Top