Carb teardown

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liptoss

Well-Known Member
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May 8, 2014
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Location
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Hi ya'all;
Now I'm handy dandy and have installed the Stage 1 then Stage 7 jet kit on my 06 along with my Hindle, Barnet upgrade, stainless Galfers etc, etc (max monkey) myself.
A few years back my bros with his 87 max had performed a complete break apart of the rack and cleaning of the carbs. He told me when it came time to reassemble and FINALLY sync the carbs, he had a VERY difficult time even keeping the bike idling enough to get them running again and sync'd.
He was FINALLY successful, but never said how he entirely was able to do this.
I'm thinking of compl;eating a full carb cleaning now, max is running OK, but as we all know "small signs" have made me think that max is about ready to plug the idle circuit soon. I figure as long as the carbs are off while I perform a valve clearance check etc... why not at least think about the carbs.

What I'm looking for from anyone out there is suggestions to avoid this all together or minimize this so it will go as easiest as it can.

Thanks all
 
Bench sync the carbs first to get em close, i usually just eyeball it to get em close and i turn up the idle screw a lil bit to help keep it running.
 
If it's still running OK, why not perform either the pea shooter routine, or the shotgun routine on the carbs, rather than tear into them completely? Either of those two methods should be adequate to clean idle jets that are not yet completely clogged.
 
Not that hard to do- you do not have to separate all of them to get to parts needed to rebuild them- only the outside brackets. you can keep them in pairs and you also do not have to take the throttle cable off of the carbs.
 
If I lived in Toronto and it was running O.K. I'd wait for winter when there was no rush and I wasn't missing out on any good riding weather. I got a quote for $1000.00 to have mine rebuilt. I ordered the parts for about $150 and did it myself in somewhere around 15 hours start to finish. I'd never done it and it was very satisfying, especially when it started easily the first time after reassembly. Getting them out of the bike and putting them back in was the hardest part for me. The first one took the longest of course and then the other 3 went fairly quickly with a bit of time spent on a few very stubborn screws. Take lots of pics from all angles at every stage, It's so nice being able to zoom in on the computer to see exactly which side of the doohickie the thingamajig goes on. What seems obvious, isn't so obvious a couple of days later.

Matt
 
Personally I would run the seafoam in the tank 1/3 of a can to a full tank run it about 10 miles and park it for a couple day's then run the whole tank thru and of course the pea shooter and shotgun are a something to do also . If your dead set on taking carbs off do as Matt says do it in the winter that way there's no down time or wasted ride time .. Good luck with what you do ..
 
If I lived in Toronto and it was running O.K. I'd wait for winter when there was no rush and I wasn't missing out on any good riding weather. I got a quote for $1000.00 to have mine rebuilt. I ordered the parts for about $150 and did it myself in somewhere around 15 hours start to finish. I'd never done it and it was very satisfying, especially when it started easily the first time after reassembly. Getting them out of the bike and putting them back in was the hardest part for me. The first one took the longest of course and then the other 3 went fairly quickly with a bit of time spent on a few very stubborn screws. Take lots of pics from all angles at every stage, It's so nice being able to zoom in on the computer to see exactly which side of the doohickie the thingamajig goes on. What seems obvious, isn't so obvious a couple of days later.

Matt

"Sit on it, Fonzie!"
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=35378&highlight=seating+carbs
images


See #6, OK, see them all! That's reply #6, not t-shirt #6!
 
What I'm looking for from anyone out there is suggestions to avoid this all together or minimize this so it will go as easiest as it can.

Do a shot gun and squirt some carb cleaner into the bowl vents with the bike running to clean the jet blocks and fuel jets a little. This is more of a maintenance procedure and won't unclog a plugged orifice, but will keep you running nice if done on a regular basis.
 
You asked first how to avoid a full tear down. Everyone mentioned it already. Peashooter/Shotgun are prophylaxis in nature with some restorative properties. One does learn their carbs
More intimately with a tear down. You may find issues undiscovered like a cracked float or missing or hardened rubber parts.
I suggest Damon Ferriollos carb rebuil video. Leaps better than a manual and visual step by step which anyone can benefit from. A large flat service with a white towel to work on. And I actually have a set of tools specifically set aside for carb work. Eg, screwdrivers custom ground for perfect fit n the respective slots, box end wrenches, a pick tool and so on. Fortunately I have access to a heated ultrasonic parts washer. Parts do not come out as new looking as if soda media blasted but they are clean in all the passages, books and crannies.
 
Yup! That's what I was looking for guys. So far been a worthwhile thread.
I particularly hadn't thought of filling the carb float bowls with carb cleaner in attempts to clean the float needle.
Wondering, it was mentioned approximately $150 of parts for a rebuild...
Does anyone have a list of the parts that would have been included in that?
Does Sean or someone else sell a carb rebuild kit including gaskets, floats etc?
Now, I haven't pulled the bowls on my Max yet, so I don't know what the floats are made of. I have pulled the bowls on my older XJ750RL, Hitachi carbs and those floats are like a hard plastic or what seems to be a hard poly.
 
I mentioned $150 and have gone back to check the parts I used and it's about $200 today. It all depends on what parts you are rebuilding or replacing. Floats and diaphragms would make it more than double that, mine were O.K. I basically Bought the K&L carburettor rebuild kit $30.00 each, the A/F mixture screw kits $6.00 each, and new main needle sets $12.00 each. from www.partzilla.com New floats would set you back $32 each and diaphragm sets $100 each, ouch!

Matt
 
OK great! Thanks on the prices. Now mentioned earlier by another, can the bowls be removed having only taken the only the outer brackets off?
 
OK great! Thanks on the prices. Now mentioned earlier by another, can the bowls be removed having only taken the only the outer brackets off?

You have to first remove the entire set of 4 carbs. Then break them down into pairs by removing some of the brackets.
 
Well i can tell you i just talked to Sean and Dannymax about my carbs just yesterday and was quoted approx 300 bucks for parts to do it myself from Sean or approx 425-450 from Dannymax talk to them yourself to be sure but that's what i was quoted.
 
Well i can tell you i just talked to Sean and Dannymax about my carbs just yesterday and was quoted approx 300 bucks for parts to do it myself from Sean or approx 425-450 from Dannymax talk to them yourself to be sure but that's what i was quoted.
The time to do a complete tear down and proper cleaning is significant. Having the right tools, means to properly clean, sync, there's some serious know how involved too. Striped and seized hardware can add even more fun to the project. Not that there isn't satisfaction in doing it yourself.
 
Well i can tell you i just talked to Sean and Dannymax about my carbs just yesterday and was quoted approx 300 bucks for parts to do it myself from Sean or approx 425-450 from Dannymax talk to them yourself to be sure but that's what i was quoted.

Without an itemized list of what you were asking for this is not an accurate picture of what you would get from each. What one thinks is essential in a replacement may not be what the other considers essential, though I think they probably have similar lists of what to replace on a teardown. Also, just the teardown will reveal what components are in need of replacement after careful scrutiny. Replacing the shaped rubber fuel lines is a good idea on an old bike, because if they start to leak after you try to reassemble them, you have to order replacements and wait for delivery. My mechanic won't do a VMax carb set unless the owner agrees to the replacement of a specific set of parts, after teardown. I mean, that's the norm, you can't re-install worn or defective parts because it won't be right, may leak fuel, and cause a fire. Haven't we had a couple members have reported fires on here lately?

Savings can be realized by replacing the diaphragms alone instead of the slide/diaphragm factory unit, since I don't believe the factory separates them. I have a set of diaphragms on the shelf for the day I need them, but I also have a couple combined-part factory units too.
 
Huge job for sure. 1st time I did it it took me 8 hours total(with beer breaks)....now I can do it quicker since I know exactly what needs done. Parts are crazy expensive for these carbs, jet block gasket alone is $10 each!
 
Re: Carb Rebuild Kit

Guys I have been searching like crazy on the web.. hit the major sites (Dennis Kirk, bike bandit, etc) I am looking for the kit with the O rings for the carb.. specifically the diaphragm cover O ring.

can anyone shoot a site to me that has them specifically for the max?
 
Re: Carb Rebuild Kit

Guys I have been searching like crazy on the web.. hit the major sites (Dennis Kirk, bike bandit, etc) I am looking for the kit with the O rings for the carb.. specifically the diaphragm cover O ring.

can anyone shoot a site to me that has them specifically for the max?

Best diy kit i've found-
If you take the time to do it it is well worth it and becomes easier each time.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191637497107?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
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