Charging System Issue?

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Kratos

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I've had my max on a Battery Tender trickle charger all winter, finally warmed up enough to get it out over the weekend. When I went out to start it, the trickle charger light was green, and it started just fine. Took the bike for a short ride, maybe 5 miles or so, when I got back and plugged it back in to the trickle charger it took several hours for it to return to the green light. Sounds to me like the battery was not being charged while I was riding, is this a correct assumption? What do I need to look at first? I did not have this issue before I installed the solid motor mounts, but the only wire I took of was the ground wire by the oil filler cap, and that it back in place and tight. Other than that, it has just been sitting with the trickle charger attached.
 
Wall-mart sells a volt meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. I have found it to be very helpful to know if the charging system is working.
 
Wall-mart sells a volt meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. I have found it to be very helpful to know if the charging system is working.

+1...put a volt meter across your battery terminals. You should have 13.5v - 14.5v while running and reving up a little bit (actual spec I believe is 14.5V @ 5000rpm??)
 
well, if its a 12v battery the charger will probably bring it up to 14volts, you riding it brought it down to 12v and your charge system on ur bike prolly charges it just enough to bring it to 12v. i wouldnt worry about it.

i have no experience with battery tenders, but when i raced RC cars the chargers would only charge the batteries to 90% and then trickle to 100% so it wouldnt overcharge a cell.

for example even in small batteries, the initial 90% charge only takes 10 minutes, the last 10% can take 2 to 8 hours.
 
well, if its a 12v battery the charger will probably bring it up to 14volts, you riding it brought it down to 12v and your charge system on ur bike prolly charges it just enough to bring it to 12v. i wouldnt worry about it.

i have no experience with battery tenders, but when i raced RC cars the chargers would only charge the batteries to 90% and then trickle to 100% so it wouldnt overcharge a cell.

for example even in small batteries, the initial 90% charge only takes 10 minutes, the last 10% can take 2 to 8 hours.

Makes sense, I'll probably try the voltmeter just to be on the safe side. I've had it running before, then plugged it back in and the 100% charge light came back on in a minute or less, but that was just after having the bike at idle for a while, not an actual ride.

Thanks for the info!
 
The charging system on the Max is barely adequate when it is working properly. Your bike is pretty new so I'd check the connectors in the charging system as that is where they start to break down. The is one on the left hand side that joins the stator to the R/R. This connector has been known to cause issues and even melt. It has,I think, 3 white wires in 1 side and 3 white out the other side. Take the connector apart and check it.... this is assuming you are not getting at least 13.5V with the bike running at the battery.
 
I agree with Buster 100%. A lot of people have told me that this is not necessary, but I ran an extra 16 gauge wire directly from the output of the RR directly to the battery, basically just a harness overlay, and I noticed a HUGE improvement immediately. Yamaha only uses a 16 gauge wire to start with - any resistance in even one connector can greatly diminish the amount of current that can be carried in that circuit. Better to have extra capacity rather than minimal, IMHO.
 
+100 on the extra wire to battery from R/R unit!
Do the ground also, the newer units have a ground wire. Right to the battery is the best way to go, and it eliminates the need for the "crimp fix"...
 
The charging system on the Max is barely adequate when it is working properly. Your bike is pretty new so I'd check the connectors in the charging system as that is where they start to break down. The is one on the left hand side that joins the stator to the R/R. This connector has been known to cause issues and even melt. It has,I think, 3 white wires in 1 side and 3 white out the other side. Take the connector apart and check it.... this is assuming you are not getting at least 13.5V with the bike running at the battery.


Tested and had 13.97 - 14.02 volts across the battery while the bike was at idle. Choke was partially on so the idle was slightly higher than normal.

Thanks guys :punk:
 
Even on a newer bike you should also consider doing the crimp fix as well. Any corrosion in the crimp and you will loose voltage/amperage to the system.
 
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