Clutch slave. gear cover wont budge.

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rebar

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Hey trying to remove the secondary gear cover. I think that's whats its called.

Iv tapped with a rubber hammer for quite some time. Any tricks for getting it off? No I havent removed the generator cover yet.
 
Try a brass hammer - just don't hit the bolt holes.
Or try a gasket scraper to split the cover away with a light smack of a hammer.
Old gaskets get like super-glue sometimes...:bang head:
 
Hey trying to remove the secondary gear cover. I think that's whats its called.

Iv tapped with a rubber hammer for quite some time. Any tricks for getting it off? No I havent removed the generator cover yet.

I've never had a problem with that cover and I've had mine off a few times. Dumb question first... all the bolts are out?:ummm:
 
Thanks Rich. For the slave and advice. How does this +1 shit work?

I installed brake pads in the back this evening instead. Figured if I kept tapping on it while drinking Id break it.:cheers:

Tomorrow
 
6 bolts. The use a plastic mallet on the side of the cover until you hear the sound change or see a small gap open up. There is a small built in casting to give a "pry" area but can't remember off the top of my head. I have yet to ever need to pry one off. This cover needs to be removed prior to taking the stator cover off.

Now, one thing you could overlook I guess would be the small clamp section of the shifter that is bolted on the shift shaft protruding through that cover. it has to be off too.

Sean
 
Just like you said Sean. took 10 minutes of tapping until it started to sound hollow or loose. Another 5 to remove it. I can only imagine what the stealership would have done to it.:clapping:

Two questions.

Whats the best way to scrape a gasket off aluminum?

And last. The sealer yamaha recommends for the bottom bolt. What is it? Like a pipe dope?:confused2:
 
FWIW - I use just a simple gasket scraper or a one-sided razor blade to remove old gaskets. As far as sealer, I like Permatex #2. I think factory sealers are no better or no worse...
 
I finally broke down and got one of the gasket removing discs. Basically it's a pad with rubber fingers that you hook up to an air dotco/dremil. Works like a champ! I don't use sealer on that bottom bolt. There is supposed to be a copper washer on it.

Sean
 
I finally broke down and got one of the gasket removing discs. Basically it's a pad with rubber fingers that you hook up to an air dotco/dremil. Works like a champ! I don't use sealer on that bottom bolt. There is supposed to be a copper washer on it.

Sean

i know u used to say removing the gasket material took u almost as long as dismantling the engine, will it improve your time significantly now?
 
I finally broke down and got one of the gasket removing discs. Basically it's a pad with rubber fingers that you hook up to an air dotco/dremil. Works like a champ! I don't use sealer on that bottom bolt. There is supposed to be a copper washer on it.

Sean


Yea, I've used those discs before, they work pretty well. Hey Sean, ever try a Roloc disc ? I buy 'em in 25 packs from Partshouse. They work great. I heard you have to be careful with them when cleaning aluminum because than can be pretty aggresive, but I've never had any issues. I do 1 or 2 waterpumps every week ( about to start one this AM ) & rolocs are the easiest way to clean the timing cover. 1 disc lasts just long enough to do 1 cover.
 
I have a variety of sanding and scuffing discs I use for general cleaning and fab work. I was using a fine scotchbrite disc but it still took quite a bit of time to get the crap off. The roloc stuff is simply too aggressive for this aluminum stuff and if used wrong will eat up a cover or block in no time flat.

Sean
 
I thought I tore the threads out of the slave mounting bolt holes when I removed the old one. SNAP! I got Rich's slave installed and thought everything would be down hill from here on out. But Rich's bleeder wouldn't loosen. :eusa_dance: It finally snapped open , but when I pulled vacuum, I saw bubbles coming from the bleeder when it was closed. Ran out of fluid and stopped but I dont think the bleeder is closing 100%. Tried the bleeder screw from my old slave and did the same.

I will get more brake fluid today and try again.

Which fluid is the least corrosive to paint?

And is there any way I can get the bleeder to seat better?
 
I thought I tore the threads out of the slave mounting bolt holes when I removed the old one. SNAP! I got Rich's slave installed and thought everything would be down hill from here on out. But Rich's bleeder wouldn't loosen. :eusa_dance: It finally snapped open , but when I pulled vacuum, I saw bubbles coming from the bleeder when it was closed. Ran out of fluid and stopped but I dont think the bleeder is closing 100%. Tried the bleeder screw from my old slave and did the same.

I will get more brake fluid today and try again.

Which fluid is the least corrosive to paint?

And is there any way I can get the bleeder to seat better?

You can try some Teflon tape to see if it is leaking around the threads.
 
Or maybe polish the base of the bleeder with some fine emory cloth ? I never had an issue with the bleeder, but it did sit on a shelf in a box for 2 years.
 
Clutch seems to be working good now. Thanks everyone..

But I busted the shift rod off in the shift pedal trying to get 30-34mm between the lock nuts. I dont think you can just replace the ball and socket on the shift pedal.. Can you?
 
That sucks. No - you can't just replace the ball end normally. I think we may have got one off before but as I recall it wasn't easy. Wonder if it can be drilled out??

Sean
 
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