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Thread the spark plug in it and give it a tug. We have them new on hand and they aren't horribly expensive. You could try cleaning the corrosion and reinstalling but not sure if that will work. It's not super common for them to leak.
Sean
Sean
Miles Long
Well-Known Member
One of the plugs on my bike developed a leak four years ago. Easy fix - drain the coolant down to below the level of the plugs, remove the cover, extract the plug, (using the threads of an old sparkplug), coat the plug with a thin layer of coolant-resistive sealant (I think I used a product made by Permatex), and put back together. Leaks no more!
Cheers
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ninjaneer
Well-Known Member
you should also add a service manual to your shopping list. i have two: the Clymer and Haynes. the "spark plug" trick is described in one of them when it outlines how to flush and fill the coolant. don't get me wrong, this forum is a wealth of great information, but adding a service manual to your toolbox is worth its weight in gold.
RaWarrior
Well-Known Member
I did the same thing like 2 years ago, bone dry since.
But mine always does drip a little from the rad drain valve in the winter months. After the winter there's a stain maybe the size of a CD under it. Never leaks a drop in the summer though, so I've just ignored it.
firefly
Well-Known Member
Did exactly what you did & it fixed the leak. I used silicone.
MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
The removable plugs are to allow all coolant to be drained.
Being made of rubber like material this will sometimes start to leak for the same reason that bread and jam will always fall sticky side down and a computer always freeze ant the most inconvenient time....i.e. no-one knows why.
There are four possible solutions:
i) Ignore the problem and hope it won't get worse or better still get better (it won't)
ii) Try rotating the bung in its bore - this can 'clean' the mating surfaces and relive any tensions or distortions that have built up in the rubber. This can allow that two surfaces to make a good seal.
iii) Remove the bung (remember to drain the coolant first), clean and dry the bung and the associated bore the apply a thin wipe of silicon sealer around the bung and re-insert. Replace the cover and let the sealer cure for a couple of hours before re-filling with coolant. It is probably prudent to consult your manual regarding the draining and filling procedure.
iv) Fit a new bung. It should not be necessary to use any sealer.
Being made of rubber like material this will sometimes start to leak for the same reason that bread and jam will always fall sticky side down and a computer always freeze ant the most inconvenient time....i.e. no-one knows why.
There are four possible solutions:
i) Ignore the problem and hope it won't get worse or better still get better (it won't)
ii) Try rotating the bung in its bore - this can 'clean' the mating surfaces and relive any tensions or distortions that have built up in the rubber. This can allow that two surfaces to make a good seal.
iii) Remove the bung (remember to drain the coolant first), clean and dry the bung and the associated bore the apply a thin wipe of silicon sealer around the bung and re-insert. Replace the cover and let the sealer cure for a couple of hours before re-filling with coolant. It is probably prudent to consult your manual regarding the draining and filling procedure.
iv) Fit a new bung. It should not be necessary to use any sealer.
Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
I had a leaky one about 20 years ago. A dab of silicone seal on it fixed it - so far.....
