flasher schematic anyone

[ncdoc0623414]

i dont like not having my auto cancel functional so i wanna play with my old flasher. (leds installed). also my leds are not so bright as they are when hooked to a straight 12v source like the running light circuit any ideas on that one?

does anyone have a diagram for the little guy around or have successfully modded the oem flasher for a lighter load

 

[Redbone]

I'm not sure if this qualifies for what you want, but here goes. I am running a pair of LED turnsignals (Rizoma Zero 11's) on the rear which has the 2 per side resistor packs which retains the auto cancel and speed of the factory setup. I picked up the Rizoma's at PJ's Parts. I am running incandesant bulbs up front although they are aluminum housing model that are popular. I got mine from Sean, here is a pic from Python.

 

[95spfldmax]

i dont like not having my auto cancel functional so i wanna play with my old flasher. (leds installed). also my leds are not so bright as they are when hooked to a straight 12v source like the running light circuit any ideas on that one?

does anyone have a diagram for the little guy around or have successfully modded the oem flasher for a lighter load

Good luck, sir.............I've asked as well as others over the years and have yet to see anything......It is quite the black box appearantely.....I was hoping to at least aqcuire a blown-up one to dissect.....no luck yet.....

 

[ninjaneer]

...also my leds are not so bright as they are when hooked to a straight 12v source like the running light circuit any ideas on that one?

i think you are limited to the physical components. one way is to replace the resistor(s) feeding the LEDs. i would think decreasing the value--to what i don't know. on top of that i don't know if you can even do this--cuz i'm thinking that the resistors are surface-mounted and enclosed deep within the signal. you might think about pulsing the LEDs--some folks maintain a belief that one can take advantage of the nonlinearities in human vision and replace the steady DC current with a pulsed one. don't know if this'll work, though, cuz i don't what technology your LEDs are, but here's a "pulsing" link http://donklipstein.com/ledp.html


am not sure i understand what's what--are you saying that the auto-cancel doesn't work because you've replaced the oem signals with "lighter load" aftermarket LEDs?

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Using the resistors to emulate the bulbs load keeps the auto cancel feature working well. I see no real advantage on lowering the load when using the blinkers (couple seconds?)... I just used a pair of 20W5Ohm ceramic resistors in parallel for each side and it works mint. If you want to speed up the rate lower the resistors power and vice-versa. I used 20W because the LEDs barely add up to 1W of power. Messing with the Ohmic value changes the brightness of the LEDs. Something between 3 and 10Ohm do the trick. Lower Ohm value increases brightness. I went for 5Ohm and im glad with the outcome... There are guys that instead of using 2x20W for each side just use a 50W resistor for each side, which i do not like due to more heat dissipating from them...

 

[ncdoc0623414]

i think you are limited to the physical components. one way is to replace the resistor(s) feeding the LEDs. i would think decreasing the value--to what i don't know. on top of that i don't know if you can even do this--cuz i'm thinking that the resistors are surface-mounted and enclosed deep within the signal. you might think about pulsing the LEDs--some folks maintain a belief that one can take advantage of the nonlinearities in human vision and replace the steady DC current with a pulsed one. don't know if this'll work, though, cuz i don't what technology your LEDs are, but here's a "pulsing" link http://donklipstein.com/ledp.html


am not sure i understand what's what--are you saying that the auto-cancel doesn't work because you've replaced the oem signals with "lighter load" aftermarket LEDs?

ive replaced the flasher signals running lights and indicator to leds. but now i run one of the signals all the time because im not really paying attention to a flasher out of my line of sight. i live at the base of deals gap so even a ride to grab a bite to eat is a curvy one. i didnt like the idea of adding load to the circut because one of my goals when changing the lights out was to lessen said load.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Automotive-electronic-flasher-rate-modification./

the tutorial on that sight is what got me thinking about this subject. looks easy peasy but hes got a schematic.

the leds i have in the front are also 2 wire lights but i built the interrupt circuit i found over on the venture forums. i believe i need to lessen the resistor though for the running lights as they are rather dim.

just a thought figured somebody on here smarter than i had mabee held the manufacturer of our beloved flashers hostage and tortured the answers out of him by now.

the lights are the least of my worries as my max is over heating when i go slow.

Solution: drive fast, run red lights, stop signs. right on over small children and family pets.............
or tear it open and figure it out. it got so hot the solid return that comes from the water pumps paint flecked off. it stalled when i tried to come off a red light and wouldn't do anything but cough and puke and sputter until i let it cool out in a parking lot over in Cherokee for about 45 min. god i love working on my max. this virago will never get put together!

 

[ncdoc0623414]

nobody?

 

[ncdoc0623414]

nobody?