HID setup

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Its pure luck on DDM part that they are using this kind of bulb but if they start using the other kind in the photo cutting will be the only way to fit it.
yes HID is the only way if one needs to see at night vs using a high watt halogen bulb that produces twice the amount of heat a HID produces.
I'm just curious why you think DDM Tuning using this bulb is "pure luck"? Do you have or is there somewhere we can find this information? Or is it just conjecture on your behalf?
 
Ok, I've read this post twice now and I'm starting to feel mentally challenged. Where can I get this "kit" and will it require modifications so that I will have HID on both low and high beams? Do I need to get a certain kind of kit to have the option of HID low/high beams or just a particular bulb? Sorry if I'm asking for more repetition on this subject. There's just so many posts on this subject, I'm confused on how to do the upgrade to HID and where to buy the kit. I drive a lot at night and I would love to be able to see better. I had to give up coffee so that's not an option for me.
 
Ok, I've read this post twice now and I'm starting to feel mentally challenged.

Don't worry you're not alone. I've yet to really understand this HID business also.

I've always thought that the only way to go HID was to replace the whole headlamp assembly, because HID sends light in a way that requires a different type of reflector to channel it where you want.

Still think that you're best off looking at additional driving lights you can mount either near or where the front blinkers are, or on the engine guards.

Riding the Dragon's Tail a couple of years ago, I also saw a guy on a Goldwing who had the most amazing ultra-bright LED spot mounted on top of his helmet, which plugged into the bike's electrics for power. That was the brightest light I've ever seen in front of any motorcycle.
 
Here was my DDM Tuning kit. Sorry, I'm not going to take it apart to measure the bulb length, but I assure you it wouldn't fit w/o cutting. Looking at Vmax2Extreme's bulb its obvious it's different. Perhaps DDM changed vendors or maybe the vendor changed the style of bulbs used. Many here promote the 55w, but if I have to do it again I would go 35w instead. The 55w is too bright (IMO) for riding in the city. Its stupid bright! On low it's considerably brighter than my previous relay powered Sylvania Silverstar Ultra on high. I know I'm blinding incoming traffic.

330511_2439404457960_1037245121_32728902_235467719_o.jpg
 
I'm just curious why you think DDM Tuning using this bulb is "pure luck"? Do you have or is there somewhere we can find this information? Or is it just conjecture on your behalf?

Its an educated guess. here is why I think it is pure luck on the part of DDM tuning, first all DDM kits come from china & are Chinese made, that is a fact it ships from china.

when HID came out a few years ago you could find different kinds of H4 bixenon Hi/ low bulbs they all use a magnet mechanism to pull back the bulb when current to the magnet is on, cut off the current & the bulb telescope to its original position, when the bulb retracts this is the high beam & when it telescopes this is the low beam, this is achieved in combination with a fixed chrome shield that has an opening in its lower section.

The Chinese supplier of DDM tuning has bulbs that are a few mm shorter at the back than the common H4 bixenon bulbs from china, this does not jam against the headlight housing, DDM did not specifically want shorter bulbs because in most cases the longer ones fit & function great, on the vmax the standard long back bulb require cutting the back of the headlight plastic housing to fit properly and to be able to use the adjusting screws to aim the headlight, if you don't cut the housing you still can assemble the headlight with some pushing but that makes the adjusting screws useless since the back of the bulb is jammed against the housing. in some cases the bike owner finds that the aim of the headlight need no adjustment even with the bulb jammed to the back of the headlight plastic housing, this is usually because the bike hight was altered by lowering the forks or shocks or both.

the controller unit with the HID kit turns on & off the current to the magnet to switch between hi & low beams, the bulb itself remains on.
See photos
 

Attachments

  • bixeninh4 - Copy.jpg
    bixeninh4 - Copy.jpg
    50.8 KB · Views: 27
  • cut housing.jpg
    cut housing.jpg
    30.4 KB · Views: 32
have you experimented with any external stuff that you'd recomend? I'm not sure if it's the law that I have to have front signals but those seem like the best thing to substitute for some extra lights. I wander how hard it would be to adapt a GEN 2 headlight assembly to my 01? All I know is that the headlight on my FZ1 was way brighter than the Vmax and it wasn't even the HID. I'd sure like to have some better lighting no matter what I have to do.
Don't worry you're not alone. I've yet to really understand this HID business also.

I've always thought that the only way to go HID was to replace the whole headlamp assembly, because HID sends light in a way that requires a different type of reflector to channel it where you want.

Still think that you're best off looking at additional driving lights you can mount either near or where the front blinkers are, or on the engine guards.

Riding the Dragon's Tail a couple of years ago, I also saw a guy on a Goldwing who had the most amazing ultra-bright LED spot mounted on top of his helmet, which plugged into the bike's electrics for power. That was the brightest light I've ever seen in front of any motorcycle.
 
Just for a piece of mind I have submitted a ticket to DDMTuning about the differences in the HID bulbs sending them the one they sold me almost 2 years ago compared to what they are selling now. I asked if they have the one I have since its what we need here and if mine goes bad, how do I get a replacement one too!

I will let you know what they come back to me saying.......
 
No experience other than seeing that Goldwing guy.. I do have a bigger Harley headlamp I'm going to try on at some point soon.

I think you must indeed have front blinkers, but it should be easy to get a couple of brackets holding both driving lights and blinkers, or even have the blinkers integrated into driving lights?
 
Just ordered the kit from ddm. Ordered the H4 6000k 35 watt. Hope it fits. I saw some other options for sale on Ebay that were a little cheaper due to mostly shipping charges but I was a little concerned about being able to tuck everything away with those kits. Since so many of you recommended the ddm, I went with that. I'll let you all know what I think once it gets here and I get it installed.
 
Looking at the cut housing picture, doesnt that now open the casing up to make it not waterproof since its exposed now?

Its an educated guess. here is why I think it is pure luck on the part of DDM tuning, first all DDM kits come from china & are Chinese made, that is a fact it ships from china.

when HID came out a few years ago you could find different kinds of H4 bixenon Hi/ low bulbs they all use a magnet mechanism to pull back the bulb when current to the magnet is on, cut off the current & the bulb telescope to its original position, when the bulb retracts this is the high beam & when it telescopes this is the low beam, this is achieved in combination with a fixed chrome shield that has an opening in its lower section.

The Chinese supplier of DDM tuning has bulbs that are a few mm shorter at the back than the common H4 bixenon bulbs from china, this does not jam against the headlight housing, DDM did not specifically want shorter bulbs because in most cases the longer ones fit & function great, on the vmax the standard long back bulb require cutting the back of the headlight plastic housing to fit properly and to be able to use the adjusting screws to aim the headlight, if you don't cut the housing you still can assemble the headlight with some pushing but that makes the adjusting screws useless since the back of the bulb is jammed against the housing. in some cases the bike owner finds that the aim of the headlight need no adjustment even with the bulb jammed to the back of the headlight plastic housing, this is usually because the bike hight was altered by lowering the forks or shocks or both.

the controller unit with the HID kit turns on & off the current to the magnet to switch between hi & low beams, the bulb itself remains on.
See photos
 
Looking at the cut housing picture, doesn't that now open the casing up to make it not waterproof since its exposed now?

As you can see the stock housing has openings to get rid of excess heat and pass the wires, the additional opening can easily be blocked off with duct tape or anything , just be creative, on mine I got caught in the rain several times with no problem & I never covered it, been on the bike for more than 5 years
 

Attachments

  • headlight.jpg
    headlight.jpg
    54.3 KB · Views: 39
I put a few pieces of electrical tape over what I cut out. Its fairly covered anyways, and there was a hole there to begin with. I'm just extra careful when I wash the bike.

I also recently ordered a 35w 6000k H7 HID kit from DDM for my Honda. Fast shipping and it works great!
 
I really don't want to have to cut up my headlight housing. I guess once it arrives and I determine whether or not it will fit, I may have a slightly used kit for sale.
Duct tape? Electrical tape? I for one don't plan on butchering my beautiful bike. To each his own but as is, I'm a little skeptical on how much of a benefit the HID will be in the stock headlight housing. For less than $60 bucks for the kit shipped, I figure it's worth the gamble that it will fit and if not, at least I'll know and like I said, I may have it for sale cheap if it doesn't fit.
Has anyone had any probs with the 35 watt kit fitting or just the 55 watt?
 
I really don't want to have to cut up my headlight housing. I guess once it arrives and I determine whether or not it will fit, I may have a slightly used kit for sale.
Duct tape? Electrical tape? I for one don't plan on butchering my beautiful bike. To each his own but as is, I'm a little skeptical on how much of a benefit the HID will be in the stock headlight housing. For less than $60 bucks for the kit shipped, I figure it's worth the gamble that it will fit and if not, at least I'll know and like I said, I may have it for sale cheap if it doesn't fit.
Has anyone had any probs with the 35 watt kit fitting or just the 55 watt?

There is no comparison between HID and halogen, a cut can be covered well and remember its very hidden, both 35watt & 55watt use the same bulb, if you ride at night on a regular bases HID is the way to go, much more light output even from a 35watt kit. also remember you can get an extra the plastic headlight housing from ebay, look under Virago headlight since all vmax stuff seem pricey some virago models use the same headlight.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=virago+headlight&_sacat=0&_odkw=vmax&_osacat=0&_from=R7&_armrs=1
 
As you can see the stock housing has openings to get rid of excess heat and pass the wires, the additional opening can easily be blocked off with duct tape or anything , just be creative, on mine I got caught in the rain several times with no problem & I never covered it, been on the bike for more than 5 years

Firefly.....Not to hijack the thread or anything but quickly.....what's the brand of your fairing? And do you have any shots of the side and cockpit view? Looks pretty cool from the front

I also had to modify my headlight bucket to allow the light element to fit out the back a little. As stated above, there is already a hole in the back for harnessing so one more doesn't create any additional problems. The increase in visibility is well worth the mod IMO.
 
There is no comparison between HID and halogen, a cut can be covered well and remember its very hidden, both 35watt & 55watt use the same bulb, if you ride at night on a regular bases HID is the way to go, much more light output even from a 35watt kit. also remember you can get an extra the plastic headlight housing from ebay, look under Virago headlight since all vmax stuff seem pricey some virago models use the same headlight.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=virago+headlight&_sacat=0&_odkw=vmax&_osacat=0&_from=R7&_armrs=1


Amen. I'll NEVER go back!! I need one for my Triple next.
 
Firefly.....Not to hijack the thread or anything but quickly.....what's the brand of your fairing? And do you have any shots of the side and cockpit view? Looks pretty cool from the front

I also had to modify my headlight bucket to allow the light element to fit out the back a little. As stated above, there is already a hole in the back for harnessing so one more doesn't create any additional problems. The increase in visibility is well worth the mod IMO.

I have one cockpit photo, I am using a trailtech speedo/ tacho instead of the stock one,
This fairing is from a chines scooter, I love it some hate it.
 

Attachments

  • max+nose+007.jpg
    max+nose+007.jpg
    89.7 KB · Views: 50
  • cockpit.jpg
    cockpit.jpg
    146 KB · Views: 48
Awesome looking Max Firefly, I love that cockpit. What shocks are those?

shocks are works performance. I did recaetech forks sprigs & GV first mod on the bike then did the works shocks, I think suspension is the first performance mod to be done on a stock max.

the Chines cockpit comes with chowmein or steamed rice & two sides :rofl_200: the turn signal relocation worked well, car drivers think its a police bike and open up the way, the lights are wickedly bright too, two 35watt 5000K HIDs & main headlight has an H4 LED = 3 watts for day time see photo
 

Attachments

  • DSC00196.jpg
    DSC00196.jpg
    87 KB · Views: 36
  • DSC00189.jpg
    DSC00189.jpg
    18.2 KB · Views: 38
Back
Top