HID setup

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I had to do no modifications to my headlight to make it fit. The wiring is all behind my left scoop except a relay that is hanging between the airbox and left scoop attached at the frame. I had plenty of room in my scoop to pack it all in.
 
It must just be me but I hate that blue light and prefer white which maybe I just see better. Blue stuff is like moonlight to me. I run the 80/100 watt 7 inch headlight with Piaa driving light. All I need or want. Both came with plenty of wire length for easy install.
 
Cycle Gear has a speedmetal kit on sale for $55.00 until the first of the year. I picked one up but haven't installed it yet.
 
I bought the 6000k HID bulb which is the purest white you can get. You dont really see any blue at all. I love mine and cost a lot less than your 7" headlight and a PIA bulb alone. I'm a happy camper here for sure!!!


It must just be me but I hate that blue light and prefer white which maybe I just see better. Blue stuff is like moonlight to me. I run the 80/100 watt 7 inch headlight with Piaa driving light. All I need or want. Both came with plenty of wire length for easy install.
 
I have the ddm tuning kit too and I'm happy with the light it gives off but I think my relay is goofy, I have to flip the key on and off multiple times in order to get the light to stay on. If you don't make sure the light is on and burning for a few seconds then when you hit the starter button the light may go out (hence why I think it's the relay) and ddm wont warranty it because I trimmed the harness to fit in my bike. Just a warning to anyone looking to buy this kit, I also had to modify the back of my headlight housing pretty good.
 
Cycle Gear has a speedmetal kit on sale for $55.00 until the first of the year. I picked one up but haven't installed it yet.

I would check the bulb size before getting to far into the install. I've read online that the bulbs that come with that kit are very long and may hit the headlight lense in front when installed.
 
I didnt meddle with the wiring at all and it works just fine. I didnt have any problems hiding the wiring away. As to the headlight fitment, not sure why a few of you had to modify the stock headlight casing, I surely didnt and it fit perfectly with the slim ballast bulb. Unsure why yours seem to be different since there should be no mod needed to do this upgrade.

I have the ddm tuning kit too and I'm happy with the light it gives off but I think my relay is goofy, I have to flip the key on and off multiple times in order to get the light to stay on. If you don't make sure the light is on and burning for a few seconds then when you hit the starter button the light may go out (hence why I think it's the relay) and ddm wont warranty it because I trimmed the harness to fit in my bike. Just a warning to anyone looking to buy this kit, I also had to modify the back of my headlight housing pretty good.
 
I figured it out. I removed the airbox and there was enough room to stash the ballast next to the ignition switch. Everything else fit into the space available on the left side.
 
This is interesting, must have missed this when it came up. And for $60 shipped the price is right also.

My only concern is durability and reliability. If a filament goes, you have the other, and you can get a H4 bulb anywhere. If a relay or ballast takes a dump, you're s-o-l and driving home on your ambers.

From what I read it seems that if they're going to crap out, they do it in a week or two after installation....if they last that long, they'll last essentially forever.

Anybody here who installed the mentioned kit have any issues with it?
 
I didn't meddle with the wiring at all and it works just fine. I didn't have any problems hiding the wiring away. As to the headlight fitments, not sure why a few of you had to modify the stock headlight casing, I surely didn't and it fit perfectly with the slim ballast bulb. Unsure why yours seem to be different since there should be no mod needed to do this upgrade.


You surely miss lead people when you say you didn't modify the back headlight housing & you never mention what kind of bulb you have????

if you have the BI XENON hi/low it will definitely jam against the back of the housing, BUT if you have a single intensity H4 ( low beam only) then you are correct not having to modify the housing since the bulb is not too long at the back.
unless you are not aware of the bulb jamming the back of the headlight housing or you didn't need to adjust the aim of your headlight the bulb is jamming against the housing if it is Bi xenon H4 bulb.

Now when you say "slim ballast bulb" there is NO such thing at all, what is slim is the BALLAST not the bulb.

can you please clarify or at least stop miss leading people.

there are 4 typs of H4 HID bulbs (H4-1, H4-2, H4-3 bixenon, Dual H4-4 xenon) which one do you have?
1- the H4-1 is a single intensity low beam.
2- The H4-2 has a xenon low & a hallogen hi beams.
3- The H4 bixenon has hi & low, it requires cutting the headlight housing to accomodate the bulb deapth.
4- The H4-4 has two seperate bulbs fused together & uses two seperate ballasts
 
I didnt meddle with the wiring at all and it works just fine. I didnt have any problems hiding the wiring away.

I got lucky with mine. When I changed over to the twin headlights, It came with a nice wiring harness, which was super simple to alter to make my HID unit plug-n-play.
 
I got lucky with mine. When I changed over to the twin headlights, It came with a nice wiring harness, which was super simple to alter to make my HID unit plug-n-play.

I have similar Hellas that use H7, much easier to deal with, surprisingly good light output for their size.
 
Yes, I stated what I had in the first post and here you ago again if you missed it.......its a 55w H4 6000k halogen hi/low bulb with a slim ballast setup. Its not that Hi/Lo Bi-Xenon setup that Redbone stated on Ebay. Slim ballast bulb is still correct since it is used on the slim ballast anyhow. Whether you order a standard ballast or slim ballast, slim ballast bulb isnt misleading! A bulb is a bulb!

AGAIN, I REPEAT, THIS SETUP OF MINE NEEDED NO MODIFICATIONS TO THE HEADLIGHT and I DIDNT HAVE TO ADJUST THE HEADLIGHT BEAM.

All bikes arent created equal, just like people, therefore each installation might be slightly different. My bulb did fit tight, but it fit without any modifications!

I can only state facts from my setup. It seems each setup is slightly different. I am not misleading people here. I am stating the facts of my setup which IMHO is correct!

You surely miss lead people when you say you didn't modify the back headlight housing & you never mention what kind of bulb you have????

if you have the BI XENON hi/low it will definitely jam against the back of the housing, BUT if you have a single intensity H4 ( low beam only) then you are correct not having to modify the housing since the bulb is not too long at the back.
unless you are not aware of the bulb jamming the back of the headlight housing or you didn't need to adjust the aim of your headlight the bulb is jamming against the housing if it is Bi xenon H4 bulb.

Now when you say "slim ballast bulb" there is NO such thing at all, what is slim is the BALLAST not the bulb.

can you please clarify or at least stop miss leading people.

there are 4 typs of H4 HID bulbs (H4-1, H4-2, H4-3 bixenon, Dual H4-4 xenon) which one do you have?
1- the H4-1 is a single intensity low beam.
2- The H4-2 has a xenon low & a hallogen hi beams.
3- The H4 bixenon has hi & low, it requires cutting the headlight housing to accomodate the bulb deapth.
4- The H4-4 has two seperate bulbs fused together & uses two seperate ballasts
 
I hope you didn't take it as an attack on you, I didn't intend it that way, this is the first time you mention your kit is a combination of Halogen & HID, the HID is for low & halogen is for hi beam. the problem with your kit is that the halogen will burn sooner than the HID and consumes the same current as a stock halogen bulb, YES yours does not need housing cutting.
what I am talking about is Bi xenon bulb with the solenoid that moves the bulb in Hi/ low beam positions, this bulb requires cutting the housing.
what is misleading (& not intentional) is when you say you did not modify the headlight housing and people order the bi xenon kit, they feel they ordered the wrong kit.

The slim is for the ballast, the bulbs are the same.


Yes, I stated what I had in the first post and here you ago again if you missed it.......its a 55w H4 6000k halogen hi/low bulb with a slim ballast setup. Its not that Hi/Lo Bi-Xenon setup that Redbone stated on Ebay. Slim ballast bulb is still correct since it is used on the slim ballast anyhow. Whether you order a standard ballast or slim ballast, slim ballast bulb isnt misleading! A bulb is a bulb!

AGAIN, I REPEAT, THIS SETUP OF MINE NEEDED NO MODIFICATIONS TO THE HEADLIGHT and I DIDNT HAVE TO ADJUST THE HEADLIGHT BEAM.

All bikes arent created equal, just like people, therefore each installation might be slightly different. My bulb did fit tight, but it fit without any modifications!

I can only state facts from my setup. It seems each setup is slightly different. I am not misleading people here. I am stating the facts of my setup which IMHO is correct!
 
You surely miss lead people when you say you didn't modify the back headlight housing & you never mention what kind of bulb you have????

if you have the BI XENON hi/low it will definitely jam against the back of the housing, BUT if you have a single intensity H4 ( low beam only) then you are correct not having to modify the housing since the bulb is not too long at the back.
unless you are not aware of the bulb jamming the back of the headlight housing or you didn't need to adjust the aim of your headlight the bulb is jamming against the housing if it is Bi xenon H4 bulb.

Now when you say "slim ballast bulb" there is NO such thing at all, what is slim is the BALLAST not the bulb.

can you please clarify or at least stop miss leading people.

there are 4 typs of H4 HID bulbs (H4-1, H4-2, H4-3 bixenon, Dual H4-4 xenon) which one do you have?
1- the H4-1 is a single intensity low beam.
2- The H4-2 has a xenon low & a hallogen hi beams.
3- The H4 bixenon has hi & low, it requires cutting the headlight housing to accomodate the bulb deapth.
4- The H4-4 has two seperate bulbs fused together & uses two seperate ballasts
Firefly, all you need to do is read Michael's posts and you can figure out what he has. I saw Mike's setup at Thunder last year and it looks great. I will be doing this mod as I just ordered the DDM Tuning kit today. He is not "misleading" anyone, whereas your recommedation (that I made the mistake of quoting here thinking that it was a tested setup, so I will accept any blame for posting it here) did not work, as you admitted, but not until several people purchased your setup.(see below)
There will be differences in how each person installs a particular mod and it is good to know that some had a different experiance but it still works out to be a great mod.

He has since taken his recommendation back as once mounted :

" The cutoff between the low & high beam is off ( in order to have a useful high beam , the low beam will be just a few feet away from the bike , if the headlight aim is adjusted for the best low beam , the high beam will light up the trees ). "

" When changing from low to high beam or vice versa , the delay is too long , making it like having no light for 40 seconds ( this does not happen with the solenoid type bulb ). "

" The idea of design is good but the high burner is misplaced by several mm which is way off . I don't recommend this kit any more & hope not too many people bought it . "

" I'll take it off and put back my 55 watt blaster . "

Couple people expressed their disappointment that they had ordered it already based on his recommendation , ( prior to his installation and test ) .
 
Two different HID bulbs photos. one requires cutting the bake of the housing , the other does not require cutting.

Both bulbs have their negatives.
1- The halogen/ HID bulb does not require cutting the back of the housing but the halogen will burn out faster than the HID and produces less light output.
2- The bi xenon solenoid mechanism some times gets stuck on hi or low but a tap on the headlight usually gets it to work again, this kind of bulb lasted me two years of daily riding, its light output is outstanding but also produces some stray light, which is actually good in day time for increased visibility
 

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I admitted my mistake and posted the results once I found out, this H4-4 looked like a good idea but turned out to be a dud, I usually recommend the H4-3 bi xenon but it requires cutting of the housing, many don't like to do that so when the H4-4 came out I thought it would be a better alternative but I was WRONG, can you please find it in your hart to forgive me.


Firefly, all you need to do is read Michael's posts and you can figure out what he has. I saw Mike's setup at Thunder last year and it looks great. I will be doing this mod as I just ordered the DDM Tuning kit today. He is not "misleading" anyone, whereas your recommedation (that I made the mistake of quoting here thinking that it was a tested setup, so I will accept any blame for posting it here) did not work, as you admitted, but not until several people purchased your setup.(see below)
There will be differences in how each person installs a particular mod and it is good to know that some had a different experiance but it still works out to be a great mod.
 
I admitted my mistake and posted the results once I found out, this H4-4 looked like a good idea but turned out to be a dud, I usually recommend the H4-3 bi xenon but it requires cutting of the housing, many don't like to do that so when the H4-4 came out I thought it would be a better alternative but I was WRONG, can you please find it in your hart to forgive me.
Yeah, I know it happens, was not a big deal on here. My hart forgives you.:clapping:
We have the DDN Tuning kit that's working well for our members. I currently run a 55/100 which works well on the rural roads I ride on locally but I need to have more lighting when I ride in areas with more traffic density which I need to run low beams. The stock H4 55w bulb is next to useless on low beam with any speed over 25mph.
 

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