Hummin noise??

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NHVmaxpower

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Ok guys I am a bit stummped at my problem. If I am decelerating I get a awful huming noise from tranny if I go back n forth L to R zig zag down the road ..In the right up position NO noise if I pull the clutch in the noise is still there but NOT as noticeable. My tires are worn and need new ones this winter so I figured maybe tires?? but it would be there all the time right not only when a load on drive train. Is there a bearing that is common to go bad in tranny? Could it be wheel bearings,ujoint, ? Its more of a humming noise than a vibration but I feel it in my hanndlebars & foot pegs . Please help I dont want to do any damage not knowing what it could be . Maybe some test I could do that you know of? step by step to eliminate each thing? Thanks in advance..
Wayno:bang head:
 
My language barrier :bang head:== wath meen TRANNY ?

Bike millage??
The humming sound as been approach in <the venturers> web site tech library. They notice an issue with the wheel spline and all parts around to be cleand and lube (garage will tell you <yes> but will thy do???).
In this meening; do your spline cleaned/lubed at every time you acces there.

And yes your way to tangle the bike left and right can notice a wheel bearing issue. If so; yamaha stock <koyo> bearing are an expensive SHIT.
They are standard size, so your local industrial dealer (as MOTION) will find you <timken, SKF, ......) cheaper and much more quality. (i`ve change rear wheel bearings last summer +or- 45$ or so, and verry easy to do)

:punk:And by the way up in front == stearing neck bearing are thimken standard size:punk:
 
Excessive lash in rear end or middle gear??

The left right thing baffles me though. Sounds like a shell bearing. Need to get on center stand and play with it maybe.

Edit.... Wheel bearing! Not shell.

Damn auto correct.
 
Last edited:
Excessive lash in rear end or middle gear??

The left right thing baffles me though. Sounds like a shell bearing. Need to get on center stand and play with it maybe.
How do I check & repair this?

My language barrier :bang head:== wath meen TRANNY ?

Bike millage??
The humming sound as been approach in <the venturers> web site tech library. They notice an issue with the wheel spline and all parts around to be cleand and lube (garage will tell you <yes> but will thy do???).
In this meening; do your spline cleaned/lubed at every time you acces there.

And yes your way to tangle the bike left and right can notice a wheel bearing issue. If so; yamaha stock <koyo> bearing are an expensive SHIT.
They are standard size, so your local industrial dealer (as MOTION) will find you <timken, SKF, ......) cheaper and much more quality. (i`ve change rear wheel bearings last summer +or- 45$ or so, and verry easy to do)

:punk:And by the way up in front == stearing neck bearing are thimken standard size:punk:
I have never had the rear wheel off maybe I should. The head bearings are smooth no play at all ,Heck I never have head wabble .
 
I've got a homemade middle gear lock for checking lash, if someone needs it let me know via pm.

It's really quite simple tho, just a piece of metal with a bolt hole in it.
 
Take off the rear wheel, remove the diff and check how tight the nut is where the driveshaft goes in. You never know, it may be as simple as that.
 
Thanks everyone for all your suggestions . The issue is myn ujoint dry no grease in it. I am puting it back together untill I get one /There is no play that I can tell just not smooth rotating just metal to metal sound . Grrrrr
 
Thanks everyone for all your suggestions . The issue is myn ujoint dry no grease in it. I am puting it back together untill I get one /There is no play that I can tell just not smooth rotating just metal to metal sound . Grrrrr

Don't buy OEM, they are expensive. Here are some options that you can pick up at the autoparts store. Not sure about all the others but I know the spicer u joint does not have any holes drilled for grease fittings which will give you a stronger u joint.

If you insist on OEM you can use the part # off the body to source a replacement. It is a Koyo PN.

ManufacturerPart NumberAEC
1064​
Falcon
U392​
GMB
220-0028​
Neapco
1-0028​
Perfect Circle
1500​
Precision
392​
Rockford
K1500​
Spicer
5-1500X​
TRW
20128​
 
Don't buy OEM, they are expensive. Here are some options that you can pick up at the autoparts store. Not sure about all the others but I know the spicer u joint does not have any holes drilled for grease fittings which will give you a stronger u joint.

If you insist on OEM you can use the part # off the body to source a replacement. It is a Koyo PN.


ManufacturerPart NumberAEC
1064​


Falcon
U392​


GMB
220-0028​


Neapco
1-0028​


Perfect Circle
1500​


Precision
392​


Rockford
K1500​


Spicer
5-1500X​


TRW
20128​
Thankls allot . I am getting a used one from a member w/ 20,000 miles I am going to drill n tapp a grease fitting into it I hope.
 
Cool man, glad you found it!

If it was me I would not drill it for a grease fitting. There's not a lot of meat there and it'll weaken it. That's just one opinion tho and doesn't make it the right one.

You can disassemble it a pack it thoroughly and if the seals are good it should last a long time.

Was there grease slung inside your driveshaft tube from a seal failure ? Just curious.
 
Cool man, glad you found it!

If it was me I would not drill it for a grease fitting. There's not a lot of meat there and it'll weaken it. That's just one opinion tho and doesn't make it the right one.

You can disassemble it a pack it thoroughly and if the seals are good it should last a long time.

Was there grease slung inside your driveshaft tube from a seal failure ? Just curious.

I fully agree about the drilling. A failed u joint seems to be somewhat rare but if it does go out on you it can cause some damage. Don't ask how I know...
 
Check out this location for a grease fitting if you must. I think it would be better than the casting to drill. They aren't expensive to buy aftermarket. Being able to greese it appeals to me though. Maybe a needle cup insteadof the fitting. A ppossible balance issue could result too, maybe.
Steve-o
 

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Check out this location for a grease fitting if you must. I think it would be better than the casting to drill. They aren't expensive to buy aftermarket. Being able to greese it appeals to me though. Maybe a needle cup insteadof the fitting. A ppossible balance issue could result too, maybe.
Steve-o
Is that the stock ujoint w/ a grease fitting?? I am waiting to hear from Sean about drilling in a grease fitting.
 

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