I say huh? (Diff oil change)

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t1n0m3n

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I changed my differential oil today. I used redline full synth.

The thing that I thought was weird was the way you tell if it is full.
The manual says to remove the Final gear check bolt, and to pour in oil until oil comes out the check hole. Then put all the bolts back in and torque to spec.

Now, it says nothing about moving the wheel to get the oil in all the nooks and crannys (thinking of the gen 1 vmax here.) However, I assume it is necessary since the same method is used to check the levels after it has been run.

Tools and torques used:
8mm socket for the check bolt and the breather bolt. (10N/m)
24mm deep socket for the filler bolt (23N/m)
17mm socket for the drain bolt. (23N/m)
 
Here is how I change my differental fluid..

Ride the bike on the highway for about 10 miles to heat up the differental.
Jack the rear of the bike up to allow the rear wheel to spin freely.
Remove the lower drain bolt and the fill bolt for ventalation.
Once its down to a drip I spin the rear wheel a few times.
I walk away go have a beer or two or three well ok... you get the point.
Install the drain bolt, I dont use a torque wrench on this...
Grab some of my favorite differental fluid and start filling it as I spin the rear wheel.
Once fluid starts coming back out the fill hole I install the bolt and its a doen deal...

Dont make a simple job into a complicated issue.. KISS!
 
Here is how I change my differental fluid..

Ride the bike on the highway for about 10 miles to heat up the differental.
Jack the rear of the bike up to allow the rear wheel to spin freely.
Remove the lower drain bolt and the fill bolt for ventalation.
Once its down to a drip I spin the rear wheel a few times.
I walk away go have a beer or two or three well ok... you get the point.
Install the drain bolt, I dont use a torque wrench on this...
Grab some of my favorite differental fluid and start filling it as I spin the rear wheel.
Once fluid starts coming back out the fill hole I install the bolt and its a doen deal...

Dont make a simple job into a complicated issue.. KISS!


pretty easy...

what fluid do you guys use for this?
 
The recommended stuff from Yamama. One quart will last for a long time.


i'll have to pick some up.. damn the closest yama dealer being 45 mins away...

my new '03 was sitting for so long i'm determined to replace all the fluids and plugs and filters n whatnot...
 
i'll have to pick some up.. damn the closest yama dealer being 45 mins away...

my new '03 was sitting for so long i'm determined to replace all the fluids and plugs and filters n whatnot...

I've changed my 2006's with Mobil 1 twice since I got it. It's easy to find at Auto-Zone or any other parts place.

Chris
 
i checked that and am not sure how to make the correlation...

from the yama service manuaL:

Final Gear Oil:
SAE 80 API "GL-4" Hypoid
Gear Oil
or
If desired, an SAE Hypoid gear oil
may be used for all conditions.

however i checked the mobil 1 site and it says it has the following:

Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy
Mobil 1 0W-40
Mobil 1 5W-20
Mobil 1 5W-30
Mobil 1 10W-30
Mobil 1 15W-50
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40
Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W-30 for Gasoline Engines
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 for Diesel Engines

am i just not looking at the right mobil 1 product?
 
i checked that and am not sure how to make the correlation...

from the yama service manuaL:

Final Gear Oil:
SAE 80 API "GL-4" Hypoid
Gear Oil
or
If desired, an SAE Hypoid gear oil
may be used for all conditions.

however i checked the mobil 1 site and it says it has the following:

Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy
Mobil 1 0W-40
Mobil 1 5W-20
Mobil 1 5W-30
Mobil 1 10W-30
Mobil 1 15W-50
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40
Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W-30 for Gasoline Engines
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 for Diesel Engines

am i just not looking at the right mobil 1 product?

Take a look here Garrett. Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-90
 
Get a good synthetic 80-140 weight. You need to be looking at differential oil and not motor oil.

Sean
 
yea my bad danny n sean,

i was looking at motor oil, didn't see another section, thought it would be under "automotive lubricants" apparently that doesn't include non-motor oils...

thanks guys!
 
picked some up at autozone...

since i'm assuming its the OEM oil in mine which isn't synthetic, should I do anything specific to change over, or maybe just put a bit in to let it clean out the old, let it drain thru, then fill it up?
 
It's cheap enough to flush it some. You can also do like others mentioned and get the rear warmed up with a quick ride. That will let it drain faster and more completely. Either way you will be fine.
 
I personally haven't heard of anyone having gear failure on a Max unless of course they ran it dry for some reason. The primary failure point seems to be the input nut/shaft shearing off which has no connection with how much or what kind of oil is used in the diff. The key here is to make sure it's full and change it once in a while and it should run forever.
 
in my haynes manual it says to replace both crush washers on the fill and drain hole. is it really necessary? i usually do mine when i do a engine oil change, but i don't see in placing an order to yamaha for two $1 crush washers that would be like $8 with shipping....

do you guys use other crush washers?
 
I do but I ordered about 10 of them on one of my larger orders to Mondak / UMotors. They are used several places. Your Yamaha dealer should have them in stock as they are used on many Yamahas.
 
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