Iginition Switch Re-key

[ninjaneer]

Ignition Switch Re-key

So my stock ignition switch expired the other day

. The service manual didn't mention at all if whether or not it is repairable, saying to replace it with a new one, so that I did. If it is repairable, oh well. But my real question is this: Call me what you will, but I want just one key for everything...has anyone ever (or know whether or not it is possible) re-keyed the ignition switch assembly? I've searched Cyberspace and uncovered all kinds of talk, but because I don't even know what the Max's key cylinder looks like, I don't know if what Cyberspace says is even remotely applicable. Just to be clear, I want to be able to use my "old" key in the new ignition switch.

 

[CaptainKyle]

It is a lot easier to rekey the other locks to match the ignition do to the amount of tumblers in them at least thats what the local lock smith told me. I have a couple good used igniton sets with gas cap,faux cover & ignition switch if any one else runs into this.

 

[one2dmax]

Re: Ignition Switch Re-key

I see no reason why the cylinder can't be rekeyed. Likely you can simply sap the electrical contact guts over from the new one anyway. It's very easy to take apart and at least check out the contacts.

Since you already bought a new one pull the bottom plate from your old one and see what you have. Pretty basic setup inside.

Sean

 

[PATMAX]

You're in luck Bro. The parts that go bad are replaceable or better put, the tumbler that accepts your key is reusable and not the part that goes bad. It will be four philips head screws to break everything down. I actually have pictures I can send you if you send me your email address. Like most repairs, pay close attention to how the contacts and plates go together. Don't forget a little dielectric grease to keep things sliding smoothly. Only other suggestion I can give is to be careful when removing the pigtail wire. Don't pry the metal tabs against the wires, you could cut the insulation or short something. Grab the metal tab with needle nose and lift up to release the pigtail. Git er dun!

 

[PATMAX]

Ha, three answers in a minutes time! Forgot to mention that fact that it is better to use a dry lube on them tumblers something like graphite or one of the drying silicone sprays. Grease attract dirt and grime and creates a wonderful fine abrasive over time. Good thing these have that retracting metal doors over the key slot!

 

[ninjaneer]

Re: Igniition Switch Rebuild

It is a lot easier to rekey the other locks to match the ignition do to the amount of tumblers in them at least thats what the local lock smith told me. I have a couple good used igniton sets with gas cap,faux cover & ignition switch if any one else runs into this.

man i should've asked the forum before buyin. i'dve seriously considered your offer if i had known :shot:

 

[ninjaneer]

Re: Ignition Switch Rebuild

I see no reason why the cylinder can't be rekeyed. Likely you can simply sap the electrical contact guts over from the new one anyway. It's very easy to take apart and at least check out the contacts.

Since you already bought a new one pull the bottom plate from your old one and see what you have. Pretty basic setup inside.

Sean

unk: Thanks Sean for the advice. You ROCK!! Thanks for taking time out of your day to help me out. It'll be effin suhweet, if I swapping out the contacts is all I need to do to get me there

 

[ninjaneer]

Re: Ignition Switch Rebuild

You're in luck Bro. The parts that go bad are replaceable or better put, the tumbler that accepts your key is reusable and not the part that goes bad. It will be four philips head screws to break everything down. I actually have pictures I can send you if you send me your email address. Like most repairs, pay close attention to how the contacts and plates go together. Don't forget a little dielectric grease to keep things sliding smoothly. Only other suggestion I can give is to be careful when removing the pigtail wire. Don't pry the metal tabs against the wires, you could cut the insulation or short something. Grab the metal tab with needle nose and lift up to release the pigtail. Git er dun!

PATMAX, you ARE THE MAN!

. How come it's of no surprise that you have pics? What haven't you done

? I'll PM you my address. :You_Rock:

 

[CaptainKyle]

You're in luck Bro. The parts that go bad are replaceable or better put, the tumbler that accepts your key is reusable and not the part that goes bad. It will be four philips head screws to break everything down. I actually have pictures I can send you if you send me your email address. Like most repairs, pay close attention to how the contacts and plates go together. Don't forget a little dielectric grease to keep things sliding smoothly. Only other suggestion I can give is to be careful when removing the pigtail wire. Don't pry the metal tabs against the wires, you could cut the insulation or short something. Grab the metal tab with needle nose and lift up to release the pigtail. Git er dun!

Yep your the man I have never tried to change out the lock portion. I have cleaned plenty of dirty contacts & made them work again. The locksmith down here was probably just trying to make money off me at the time & rekey more than one lock but it did not work I just kept 2 keys. Now I have 2-3 locksets laying around. Off topic but I tried tro clean tha goldwing switch & it did not work. I went ahead & asked the gut if he wanted to spend $ 700 bucks on a new one.LOL He liked the idea of going around it.

 

[CaptainKyle]

man i should've asked the forum before buyin. i'dve seriously considered your offer if i had known :shot:

Yeah there is usually some one around here that has extra parts you live & you learn thats why were all here .

 

[95spfldmax]

PATMAX, you ARE THE MAN!

. How come it's of no surprise that you have pics? What haven't you done

? I'll PM you my address. :You_Rock:

Hey Pat,
How about posting the pics here too......I need to do this same upgrade. Pretty sure i'm all set but you know how everyone here likes pics!?!?!?

 

[PATMAX]

Hey 95, I'd love to post pics but can't from my Iphone (no PC currently). If someone else wanted to post em' I could email them then they could post em' up. Ninjaneer gets them first. Hey Kyle, I'd be going with the bypass rewire too on that Wing. Heck at that price, I'd hold two wires together every time I needed to brake!

 

[ninjaneer]

Re: Ignition Switch Rebuild

...I loved to post pics but can't from my Iphone (no PC currently). If someone else wanted to posted I could email them then they could post em' up. Ninjaneer gets them first...

i'll post them up

 

[Saml01]

To bad you solved it, I figured this would be a good time to go keyless.

 

[ninjaneer]

Re: Ignition Switch Rebuild

photo(1). Metal crimp release


photo(2). First two philips removed exposes contact ring. Lifts straight up and out.


photo(3). Remember how these parts sit. The copper contacts have captive springs underneath. The white plastic carrier is index fit over the grey metal shaft and can go 180% either way and still work right.


photo(4). The flat ring with detente are what you feel when you turn your key to the different positions. Take notice of the keyway cutouts on the outside of this ring. They match and slide down the molded tabs on the inside of the ignition housing itself.


photo(5). Second set of philips screws frees up a hold down plate. It has the same keyways around it's outside and holds the grey metal center shaft. Lift out the shaft and expose the tension spring. This is as far as you have to disassemble to change out the lock cylinder! You could disassemble further with a copper snap ring but why? Re-assemble in reverse order not forgetting to clean with electrical contact cleaner if necessary and relubing areas the slide against each other with dielectric grease. If using old parts, the copper contacts can be refreshed by rubbing with fine sandpaper or scotchbrite pad but I use an old slot car trick and rub vigorously with a pen/pencil eraser. That method is ultra safe and polishes perfectly. Plug harness in to test BEFORE re crimping and mounting into its bracket. Lube tumblers with dry lube only-never grease or oil. You just saved yourself $250 bucks the stealership charges just to R&R this part!


photo(6) Overview of assembly/disassembly order.

 

[ninjaneer]

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[ninjaneer]

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[ninjaneer]

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[PATMAX]

Uh Oh, text is coming through but no pretty pictures. Please leave the one of my girlfriend out! It took me weeks to figure out what NSFW meant.
PATMAX

 

[ninjaneer]

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