Jhavens' 1985 vmax project

[Jhavens]

Thought I would start my own thread where I can post progress and questions. Here is the post I put up in the new member section:

Hello all, I joined a few months ago, but haven't introduced myself yet. I've spent these last few months reading the abundance of information this site has to offer.

I purchased an 85' vmax about a year ago with 12,000 miles, all stock. I'm the third owner, the original owner bought it new in 85' and rode it for 12K miles and then took the carbs off and started to clean them. He never finished the job and it sat for 7 or 8 years and then sold it to another guy where it sat for a short time and then I came along and purchased the bike. Beautiful bike, in mint condition. Other than being dirty from the mileage, it looks almost new. Everything on the bike is original and stock down to the tires. There is one small, penny sized, spot of rust on the frame and paint peeling on the underside of the bike, but other than that the bike is fantastic.

So for the past year, I've been cleaning it up and slowly bringing her back to life. It's been a slow process with a new family member who entered the world shortly after the purchase(he is now 1). The biggest challenge has been picking up where someone else left off in the middle of cleaning and rebuilding the carbs. When I got the bike the carbs were off the bike and there was just a box of parts. Luckily the original owner didn't get too far into the process. I have three carbs cleaned and rebuilt, but there was damage to one of the carbs beyond repair and it will need to get replaced. The damage was in the pilot screw hole. Seems to me the owner tried to take the pilot screw out and screwed the pooch. I have a friend who is an engineer for a company that makes jet engine parts and he took the carb to his machine shop and they couldn't do anything with it, too damaged. So after I replace that carb I can get them back on the bike.

I've also upgraded the brake pads and put on stainless steel lines. Everything else that has been done is just general maintenance(oil, filter, all new fluids, etc.). I think the only thing left to get her running is getting the gas tank off and cleaned. Once she is running I'll put new tires on.

Sorry for the novel. I want to say thank you to anyone who has posted any useful information on this site, it's been invaluable in cleaning and rebuilding the carbs.

 

[Jhavens]

Here are a couple pictures of the workspace. It's not a garage, but the closest thing to it. It looks like a little chaotic, but it's organized caos.

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Carbs have been torn apart, cleaned and are back together ready to go back on.

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[Jhavens]

New tire was put on. I've run into a problem with the wheel. The manual mentions there is a spacer that sits between the wheel and the brake caliper bracket. There was no such spacer on my wheel. There is no mention of that spacer in the factory manual, unless I was looking at the wrong diagram. I have no clue what the part number is to replace it. Here are the pictures. Any help would be much appreciated.

From one of the manuals. I'm missing the spacer from fig. 13.6b, but have no clue what part number it is to replace it. Is not in the wheel diagram from the factory manual. Could just be stupid and missing it.

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Top down view of the right side of the wheel.


Another view, same side.

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Oil seal to replace the current one and what I thought was the correct spacer that I was missing but it's the flange spacer.

 

[johnpclynch]

There is a collar spacer in there, part# 90387-200J2, it pushes against the bearing and seals up against the oil seal - you can just about make it out here

Part #7 here:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1985/V-MAX%20-%20VMX1200N/REAR%20BRAKE%20CALIPER/parts.html

 

[Traumahawk]

I'm glad that your bringing it back to life....these bikes are too great to just let fall apart. Welcome to the forum.

 

[marsmax85]

Nice job !! There's defiantly a lot of reading from past threads I now have to wear reading glasses .

 

[johnpclynch]

From one of the manuals. I'm missing the spacer from fig. 13.6b, but have no clue what part number it is to replace it. Is not in the wheel diagram from the factory manual. Could just be stupid and missing it.

Just a thought, did you check the rear brake caliper bracket? the spacer could be stuck to it :confused2:
I thought I spotted something in your pic but there's alot in the way

 

[Jhavens]

There is a collar spacer in there, part# 90387-200J2, it pushes against the bearing and seals up against the oil seal - you can just about make it out here

Part #7 here:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1985/V-MAX%20-%20VMX1200N/REAR%20BRAKE%20CALIPER/parts.html

That's what I need! Thank you very much. I never thought to look at that diagram.

Just a thought, did you check the rear brake caliper bracket? the spacer could be stuck to it :confused2:
I thought I spotted something in your pic but there's alot in the way

Yes, I checked there multuple time to make sure I wasn't going crazy.


Again, thank you everone.

 

[Fire-medic]

It's amazing that there are all these bikes out-there, just waiting for someone to resurrect them. And an '85! (yours) Everyone will want to know the frame # if you didn't already post it in the new member section. There is a registry of the '85 #'s, be-sure to add your to it if you haven't.

dannymax should be able to assist w/a used carb body. Sean Morley may be able to have it sleeved, but if the machinists at an aircraft fabrication/maintenance facility said, "no-dice," well, I'd say they would know. I have bought sets of carbs for spare parts before, and maybe someone has the body you need if dannymax or Sean doesn't. You would need to tell us exactly which one is bad. The scrap body makes for an interesting paperweight.

Here's a shot of a stuck needle removed from the carb throat to save a body. Many things can be done, w/patience and time. The tip of the needle was protruding thru the hole in the bottom of the carb throat, as it should, but it was stuck. Careful machining removed the majority and then a light tap from a deep socket on the protruding tip popped-free the remainder, rendering the body usable. You can see the gummy build-up on the narrow portion of the needle which locked it in-place.

 

[Jhavens]

Update:

Ordered the collar that I need for the wheel. And bought a Motion Pro Syncpro for synchronization.

In the meantime, I put the carbs back on last night but didn't have my phone with me to snap a picture, will do that tonight. That went smoothly for the most part. And screw the throttle cables, what a pain in the butt, specially the one that is on the inside of the carbs. But, after much patience, determination and roughed up hands, the cables were connected. I'm an unsure if I have the breather hose routing correct. I think I do, but I have no frame of reference since the carbs were off the bike when I bought it.

One other concern, this more for reference for a possible issue later on. There is one rubber boot(from the v-boost to the carb body) that has a couple cracks on the outside. After a closer look, it doesn't look like it goes all the way through so hopefully it will be okay for a while. Normally I would change all of them in a heartbeat, but the wife and I are closing on a house in October so saving money where we can.

 

[NHVmaxpower]

The shop I work at bought a new motionpro & its a PITA always have to calibrate it. When I do carbs at work I bring in my Morgan Carbtune so much nicer of a unit no calibrating at all.
BTW seeing these pics remind me of me doing my bike in my living room lol. Gotta love our wives/gfs for putting up w/ us

 

[Jhavens]

Sorry it took so long to get more pics. Here's one with the carbs back on.




For an update... Got the exhaust back on and picked up a battery the other day, which is now charging. I went with the larger battery and modified the battery box to accommodate the larger battery. Waiting an a spacer for the wheel and then I can put that back on.



That's all for now.

 

[Jhavens]

Update: Got the battery charged and on the bike. Fuel in the tank. Turned the key to on, all the lights came on, horn worked and battery was ready 12.5V and vboost did it's thing. Tried starting it and it turned over like a champ, but no start. Tried it 3 times for about 3 second each time, and about 10-15 seconds per try and nothing. I can hear the fuel pump click for a few seconds after each try.

A little overwhelmed with where to start troublshooting at this point. Maybe I'm missing something simple.


Edit and update: Checked over everything again. Turned the key to on and the fuel pump clicked away and this time I heard something from the carbs(could be my imagination). Then I did notice that(and this is embarrassing) the bleeder screw from carb #2 was missing. Probably why it wasn't starting. I'll try and start it in a bit, I wanna make sure all the leftover fuel that I wasn't able to soak up has been evaporated. Hopefully that was the issue. Put the bleeder screw in and still nothing. It's so close, begging to start.

 

[Jhavens]

Tried to start it again Sunday afternoon, sitting overnight from previous try. This time there was a super loud(ear ringing) bang from the rear end. I immediately let go of the starter, not only did it startle me it scared the crap out of my son who was playing in the yard.

I know the battery isn't the issue, carbs have been rebuilt, fuel pump is working, and the spark plugs are new. I don't think the engine is flooding since I don't smell gas at all. I'm not sure the best logical process to proceed. I guess what I'm going to do is make sure there is spark going to all cylinders(my guess from the bang that there is spark going to at least one). Then I will check the wet float levels and then go from there.

 

[Fire-medic]

It sounds like maybe a pair of coil primary leads are switched side for side, that's easy to do in the front. Or the connections for the ignition coils are reversed, I think the left front coil feeds the right front (#4) cylinder. Can someone-else confirm or deny this, please? I have COP's now, or I would have checked.

Cylinders-in the driver's seat​

#1=left rear
#2=left front
#3= right rear
#4=right front




Did you have the pick-up coil disconnected, under the left scoop, I think it is? Since you have an '85, you actually have two pick-up coils by the stator:

• black B
• white/red W/Red
• orange O
• gray Gr
• white/green W/Gr
• test: (O-B; O-Gy; O-W/Gr; O-W/Red)

You should have ~110 ohms +/-10% reading between leads.

Since it backfires, it sounds like it's firing out-of-phase.

 

[Jhavens]

It sounds like maybe a pair of coil primary leads are switched side for side, that's easy to do in the front. Or the connections for the ignition coils are reversed, I think the left front coil feeds the right front (#4) cylinder. Can someone-else confirm or deny this, please? I have COP's now, or I would have checked.

Cylinders-in the driver's seat​

#1=left rear
#2=left front
#3= right rear
#4=right front




Did you have the pick-up coil disconnected, under the left scoop, I think it is? Since you have an '85, you actually have two pick-up coils by the stator:

• black B
• white/red W/Red
• orange O
• gray Gr
• white/green W/Gr
• test: (O-B; O-Gy; O-W/Gr; O-W/Red)

You should have ~110 ohms +/-10% reading between leads.

Since it backfires, it sounds like it's firing out-of-phase.

Thanks, I'll look into this tonight. I'll take some pics of the connections and post them here and someone can tell me if they are correct or not. Or maybe someone will notice something else that is not correct.

 

[88vmx12]

Thanks, I'll look into this tonight. I'll take some pics of the connections and post them here and someone can tell me if they are correct or not. Or maybe someone will notice something else that is not correct.

OK the front right cylinders coil is fed from the wireharness on the left side of the bike. They are crossed on the front of the bike , unlike the rear coils. When this happens you will get back firing and the bike will run like crap.

G

 

[Fire-medic]

OK the front right cylinders coil is fed from the wireharness on the left side of the bike. They are crossed on the front of the bike , unlike the rear coils. When this happens you will get back firing and the bike will run like crap.

G

Thanks, Gannon, I was too-lazy to search the forum for the exact content. :confused2: "Too-busy" is more-correct, given work!

 

[Jhavens]

Coils are going to the right cylinders and all the connections seem to look good.

Does anything need to be done with the idle screw? Right now its set so that the throttles are closed all the way.

I'm going to re check the gaps on the spark plugs next.

 

[Jhavens]

WOOO! Not sure what was going on, BUT SHE LIVES! I pulled her out of the shop and just tried starting her up and she came to life like there was no problem.