mixture adjustment screws frozen

[odie1]

back together and runnin like crap....bike will start and run with choke lever. I can back off the choke about 1/2-2/3 and she will still idle but even warmed up will die if the choke is off completely.

I don't know where the mixture screws should be set so I bottomed out and backed off 1-1/2 turns each...well the 2 screws that are not frozen...the frozen mixture screws I can see just a tiny protrusion in the carb throat...the 2 mixture screws that turn seem to protrude about the same when backed out 1-1/2 turns....

anyway I can ride it around the neighborhood and seems to run so-so with the choke off but i have to rev it in neutral at stops or put the choke back on to keep it from dying at stops....

BTW i know the sync is messed up on at least one carb...i was adjusting the sync screw on the left side thinking it was the idle speed...oops...

anyway...will keep messing with it all...i put some seafoam in the tank so hopefully as i continue to try to ride it and adjust it the carbs will slowly clean up....

my assumption is that the mixture screw i totally F***ed up is still frozen at a reasonably correct setting. So I just gotta get the other 2 screws and carb sync back to where they should be and just hope running the bike with seafoam and carb cleaner will de-gunk 3 years of storage...

 

[tugla]

try 2.5 turns out on the two might help out. but sounds more like you will need to get those screws out or other carbs or bodies.

 

[odie1]

yeah, did some digging with the search function....I'm gonna set them at 2.5 and then choke it as little as possible for it to stay running and re-sync the carbs...........and then go from there....for now, lol

 

[dannymax]

I'm wondering if your idle circuits aren't plugged, at least partially?:ummm:

Have you considered breaking them down for a good cleaning?

Which carbs are stuck....#3 & #4 I imagine!

 

[odie1]

it's the two rear carbs that the screws are stuck in...

I set the 2 front carbs are 2.5 turns out on the mixture screws and checked the sync. they were amazingly not too far outta sync. I had to make very minute adjustments to sync them.

well it seems to be able to idle now without the choke being left on. but is slow to come back to idle when reving the throttle.

another strange note...the vent tube things that you see at the top of the carb throats when the air box is removed, this would be the tube on the left side of the throat when viewing the carbs from the side of the bike....if I stick my finger in them to plug them different things happen depending on which carb i touch....covering the vent tube on the left rear carb makes the RPMs surge a lot. the right front carb causes the engine to die. the right rear carb vent tube also has suction but covering it with my finger has zero effect. the left front carb has no suction what so ever and nothing happens when i cover that on as well...............i would think these vent/tube things would all react the same way.

 

[dannymax]

it's the two rear carbs that the screws are stuck in...

I set the 2 front carbs are 2.5 turns out on the mixture screws and checked the sync. they were amazingly not too far outta sync. I had to make very minute adjustments to sync them.

well it seems to be able to idle now without the choke being left on. but is slow to come back to idle when reving the throttle.

another strange note...the vent tube things that you see at the top of the carb throats when the air box is removed, this would be the tube on the left side of the throat when viewing the carbs from the side of the bike....if I stick my finger in them to plug them different things happen depending on which carb i touch....covering the vent tube on the left rear carb makes the RPMs surge a lot. the right front carb causes the engine to die. the right rear carb vent tube also has suction but covering it with my finger has zero effect. the left front carb has no suction what so ever and nothing happens when i cover that on as well...............i would think these vent/tube things would all react the same way.

Not really sure what sort of reaction you should expect when plugging the vents....may be dependent on whether the fuel pump has a chamber under pressure while the next one is drawing down fuel....but that's just a guess. :confused2:

 

[one2dmax]

Sounds like the cylinder that jumps in rpms when plugged might be set too lean on the float level.

Sean

 

[odie1]

what does that tube vent or lead to?

 

[one2dmax]

Float Chamber where the fuel comes in and is metered out through the circuits.

 

[odie1]

I thought the hoses on the side of the air box were the vents to the fuel bowls...

 

[Mad-V-Maxr]

When I first got my vmax I had a mixture screw that had the flats torn off, by some freak chance it had a hole in it. I stuck a very small Allen key in it and removed it. Maybe po had tried to drill it and gave up I dont know but it was perfect fit. I've worked on alot of equipment in my life and it was like it was made that way.

 

[MANA1]

I have the same problem except I can't find a extractor strong enough too not strip the edges that bite into the brass screw. I tried ace hardware, Napa auto, and Sears. All the sets I bought just get rounded out and wont bite into the screw. Damn cheap taiwan and chinese crap tools! Let me know if you found a good set that works.

 

[hh3130]

I know this is an old thread. But I had luck removing broken or seized mixture screws by using left cut (counter clockwise) drill bits. On my vmax half the screw head was broke off so I couldn't find a good center point. A 1/4" left cut drill bit fits in the hole to act as a guide and I drilled it very little just enough to find a center mark. After that I drilled a small hole in the center 1/16", but not thru the screw. Then I used a 1/8" bit and the bit usually hogs into the brass and turns it out for you. ****Please note: drill slowly because you DO NOT want the drill bit to break off in the screw!*****

I always try to use left cut bits because if the screw does break free while drilling, the needle can jam in the seat and break off. Don't ask me how I know this!

Also I started using penetrating oil on it every day for a couple of weeks to try and loosen the screw.

In any case it worked great on my Vmax and other bikes I've worked on in the past.

Just my 2 cents worth, hopefully it may help someone else out.

 

[VmaxKen]

First let me introduce my self. I am a long time Vmax owner, (first one 1985 model), at one time, I 've owned 5 Vmaxs, at once.
Being a new member hear, I'd like to share, some of our knowledge, and experience here. I own, and operate San Francisco's oldest Motorcycle Tire, Service, & Modification Center, (KCE). In business for 40 years, working on MC's for 46 years.

You will find many suggestions, solutions, and advice - (especially about this problem), by going to Craigslist motorcycle forum, and putting our handle (9314360) in the - 'HANDLE SEARCH'box
If you'd like to contact me direct, our email is [email protected]. My personal contact number is 1-415-706-9542.

I/we are always ready to help.

Kenny C.

 

[VmaxKen]

Sorry, put '9314360' In the craigslist motorcycle discussion forum's ((HANDLE SEARCH BOX)), (I had it backwards)

 

[thor_eyerdhal]

First let me introduce my self. I am a long time Vmax owner, (first one 1985 model), at one time, I 've owned 5 Vmaxs, at once.
Being a new member hear, I'd like to share, some of our knowledge, and experience here. I own, and operate San Francisco's oldest Motorcycle Tire, Service, & Modification Center, (KCE). In business for 40 years, working on MC's for 46 years.

You will find many suggestions, solutions, and advice - (especially about this problem), by going to Craigslist motorcycle forum, and putting our handle (9314360) in the - 'HANDLE SEARCH'box
If you'd like to contact me direct, our email is [email protected]. My personal contact number is 1-415-706-9542.

I/we are always ready to help.

Kenny C.

Great! Share it here