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Ok, found something really interesting...

"The LED wont go out as there is enough voltage leakage to always illuminate it. Luckely with the Vapor you get two sets of bulbs, LEDs & normal, changed it for the normal bulb and it works fine.
Also had the same problem with the indicator bulb as the current flows in both directions depending on if your turning left or right, so had to change this LED to a normal bulb as well."
someone responded

connect a 47ohms/2w resistor to the oil wire and to the neg/ground.
That is the internal resistance of a 3.2w bulb,I also have rx1n. "
I don't have any 47's lying around, so I'll go purchase 2 and see what happens.
 
So that means that I'd need to go into the actual gauge desolder the cathode from the turns and make them single instead of parallel...

I'd be up for doing that, my problem is that voltage was able to get it working without doing that.

Other issue I have is that when turning the left turn on, the right doesn't blink... so does that mean there's a problem with the wiring for the left, that maybe it's grounded somewhere?

I would't mess with koso.

You dont have a problems with koso, you have a problem with stock relay.
Stock relay need to run with specific light or it wont work properly(even if it seems to runs ok).
Stock light or double led with resistors(my patent).

I'd route myself with modified led signal light and i'd connect koso signal lghts
to the main harnes as they would be ordinary led indicators.
 
So, awesome news... my turns work normally now!

I added a 100ohm resistor to the left turn, I have the LED's working for the turns on the stock cluster, so I'll have both stock cluster turn and the new gauge clusters tuns :)

I modified your solution a little, mine is just a tad bit cleaner and gives you the ability to go to stock if needed, I'll take a pic once I'm done.
 
Yes, what You've just did is simply a forced current, parasitic method.
Its very easy, simply just add a resistor in series to force a current.
I know some people ading the small bulb instead resistor, small bulb completly insolated and hidden somewhere in the bike.

IMHO led lights are for energy saving and space saving not for cool look.
Personaly I dont see any sense with led that consumes the same energy as regular bulbs...
Thats why I've created a double led mod that will work with stock either led config.

But evryone has his own.
 
Hi there :
For the turn signals: I had no issues at all.
the only thing was to remove oem bulb from the tach.

about EOBD and Fuel lights:
I left it unconnected and had use OEM lights on the tach
those was only lights that I have left on the tach

as I look at you r video
check your connections ( for turn signals ) again i Think that there may be some problems in the connection otherwise the Meter is off I can think about other explanation.
Keep in mind in may case i have remove all the bulbs in the tacho except Oil and fuel light
unfortunately now I am unable to show you the connections cause the bike is off for a while.

About RPM:
I use Type B Wire connected to negative of the first cylinder ( Back Left )
1005942e.jpg



About the temp sensors
For water temp I have made an adapter ( similar to the Koso ) and connect it on the hose right next to the OEM but leave the OEM there so I had two temp sensors the OEM and the Koso but no picture to show :(

and for the oil temp a made an adapter and put it here :



No problems there .


Hope that will be help for you

best regards
 
I cleaned up the wiring, as I was doing it I figured out an alternative way of getting that negative connecion, I got it working, turns work good, and as they should and a regular oem bulb in stock cluster works along side the gauges turns.

I was trying to figure out how to get the fuel sensor working... I got it to work, but not the way it should, as soon as the bike is turned to "on" posiion, the gas meter clears.... I'll sleep on it and try to figure something out, I've got an idea of how it works just need to get it wired.... anyone know where the sensor goes from and to? if there's any relays or anything?
 
Gauge cluser is installed and working... next thing to get ordered is going to be COP's and (not 100% sure yet) a fuel sensor that'll show fuel amount on the Koso cluster.
 
Gauge cluser is installed and working... next thing to get ordered is going to be COP's and (not 100% sure yet) a fuel sensor that'll show fuel amount on the Koso cluster.

There're many fuel sensors that will work.
Scooters cheapo sensors are instaled in thier tanks on the top, motorcycles are instaled on the bottom.
Check Fargo's thread about some marine sensor.

Theres nothing that will work bolt on my friend.
 
Yea, I was reading raging's thread, and I'm thinking that's the route I'll go, it's a 70$ sensor... I just want to make sure that it wont leak, and if I don't like the way it works that I can reseal the tank somehow.
 
I've contacted centroid, we're trying to figure out the best sensor for fuel... they asked what the resistance is of the Koso unit, does anyone know?
 
Koso has 100-510ohm resistance, it's selectable... so basically it's completely customizeable! I'm sorting out the details with CP to figure out what I'm going to get

I've got the answer, I'll have the sensor ordered tomorrow, and hopefully COP's, if it works out I'll be installing them soon! If anyone is interested E100/F00 is the fuel sensor needed for Koso, the 5 hole mount is the only version that has the bendable sensor so 5 hole is mandatory, and is best imho.
 
bike is garaged as of last night, I'll order the parts and once they come in I'll test, when I was wiring up the gauge I did get it working with a 100ohm, it was flashing empty, so I know it works and how to wire it up... what I'll end up doing is disconnecting the stock sensor or tapping into those cables then 3rd goes to gauge
 
Who needs instructions *shruggs* I ordered the COP's, hopefully will have it on Friday :) I'll call Mary today to see what price the fuel sender is
 
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