tugla
Well-Known Member
and istalled correctly?
new mighty vac
- Thread starter crashmymax
- Start date
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and istalled correctly?
haha u mean not backwards!?
Patrick78
Well-Known Member
I just did all of this yesterday. I replaced all the hydraulic lines. I started with the clutch and then rear brakes and both bled quickly and with little effort. I think went to the front brakes alternating between the two calipers. I was finally getting all fluid and no bubble but still not pressure on the lever. I finally decided to try pumping up the lever and then cracking open the banjo bolt at the master cylinder itself. It took me about 5 times of doing that and I finally got the lever pressure hard. I bled the calipers once more each and was done. I then bled the clutch master cylinder just to be sure I didn't have any hidden air in there.
I went to the story yesterday to get the brake fluid and with the intention of getting a mighty vac or something of that nature. They didn't have one but had this cheap ($10) "one man bleeding kit". It was a small container with a hose attached to it and some christmas tree style plastic nozzles. I stuck the nozzle into the hole in the bleeder screw and stuck the bottle up above somewhere. Pumped the lever, held it, and cracked open the bleeder to let the air flow out. Closed it off and pumped again. Repeat that until you're done.
The instructions did say to just open the bleeder screw and pump the lever until all the air is out, but I've never been able to get that to work before. I do think air is being sucked in at the screws when they loosened so I just stick with the pump and release.
I went to the story yesterday to get the brake fluid and with the intention of getting a mighty vac or something of that nature. They didn't have one but had this cheap ($10) "one man bleeding kit". It was a small container with a hose attached to it and some christmas tree style plastic nozzles. I stuck the nozzle into the hole in the bleeder screw and stuck the bottle up above somewhere. Pumped the lever, held it, and cracked open the bleeder to let the air flow out. Closed it off and pumped again. Repeat that until you're done.
The instructions did say to just open the bleeder screw and pump the lever until all the air is out, but I've never been able to get that to work before. I do think air is being sucked in at the screws when they loosened so I just stick with the pump and release.
crashmymax
Well-Known Member
All lines and fittings are new. The master was rebuilt about 3 years ago. I have plenty of fluid coming through the lines just full of air. I gave up last night. Will start fresh after work.
tugla
Well-Known Member
ya the other forward hahahaha oops on the spelling
crashmymax
Well-Known Member
I reverse bled tonight still no brake at all. I did notice that the left caliper seems to have very little air coming through and the right has a ton. What should i do next rebuild the master? Where can i get a kit yamaha wants $58. Is there anything else i should first?
Have you tried cracking the top banjo bolt as you bleed? That can be a real air trap,I had the same thing with my brakes when I fitted stainless lines. Just wrap a rag tight around the lines,pump the lever and hold while you crack the bolt,just enough to let fluid seep. Bet you get bubbles.
Do you have your bleeder screws well taped, sounds like you're getting air thru the threads.
I only pump the mity-vac enough to get the fluid moving, then tap with a rubber mallet and keep the reservoir topped off.
My front brake took forever to pump up! I was totally convinced there was something wrong, but kept at it, slowly squeezing the lever, jogging it a little, finally I got a good solid lever. It's been great ever since!
Take your time, keep slowly pumping the lever, if it was working before, it should work again.
Not sure why the front brakes are such a SOB, but lots of guys have a bitch of a time with them....me included!
Redbone
Well-Known Member
Amen Danny! I had lots of trouble with mine as well. I found that I would get the micro bubble in the master when tapping the lines with the handle of my dead blow hammer, nothing hard mind you, just enough to get the bubbles moving.
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
Just to throw out another idea. You have to be careful using a Mighty Vac or similar setup to not pull air in past the seals or even if you have a bad crush washer. Primarily see this happen with the clutch slave cylinder, but have seen it with front brakes once or twice. You might just want to go back to having someone work the lever and you bleed at the caliper:confused2: If only one caliper is giving you an indication of air I would start there and work my way up to the master cylinder. Of course this is just what I would do.......
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
I'm wondering if brakes/clutch could be reverse bled with the siphon principle? Seems logical but I've never tried.
Food for thought: Yesterday, we were working on an excavator. The tank needed to be drained for cleaning and we need to replace the fuel pickup assembly. The bottom of the fuel tank is approximately 16" off the floor, the top of the catch cans were no taller than 12". All we did to drain the tank was put a hose into the fuel tank. As soon as we lowered the hose below the bottom of the tank the fuel began to automatically siphon into the catch cans.
So, can this be put to use for bleeding brakes/clutch lines? Say I took a bottle similar in design to one for gear oil. One that had a nozzle built into the cap. Fill the bottle with brake fluid. Screw on the cap w/ built in nozzle. Connect a long hose to the cap (just push on). The bottle would be sitting on the floor right now. Push the other end of the hose over the bleeder on the brakes. I am assuming the brakes are dry (no fluid in the lines or master). Lift the bottle about 2' above the master cylinder. Crack open the banjo bolt and see if the fluid rises up to the master cylinder.
It should.....I think :confused2:
Seems like that would be a fool proof way to reverse bleed any brake system. Sounds too easy.
Food for thought: Yesterday, we were working on an excavator. The tank needed to be drained for cleaning and we need to replace the fuel pickup assembly. The bottom of the fuel tank is approximately 16" off the floor, the top of the catch cans were no taller than 12". All we did to drain the tank was put a hose into the fuel tank. As soon as we lowered the hose below the bottom of the tank the fuel began to automatically siphon into the catch cans.
So, can this be put to use for bleeding brakes/clutch lines? Say I took a bottle similar in design to one for gear oil. One that had a nozzle built into the cap. Fill the bottle with brake fluid. Screw on the cap w/ built in nozzle. Connect a long hose to the cap (just push on). The bottle would be sitting on the floor right now. Push the other end of the hose over the bleeder on the brakes. I am assuming the brakes are dry (no fluid in the lines or master). Lift the bottle about 2' above the master cylinder. Crack open the banjo bolt and see if the fluid rises up to the master cylinder.
It should.....I think :confused2:
Seems like that would be a fool proof way to reverse bleed any brake system. Sounds too easy.
Certainly sounds reasonable Mike. I think this method is, in principle, similar to what thevmaxrider does, with an assist from the lever.
But would it flow backwards up into the master cylinder, those are directional seals aren't they?
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
When you reverse bleed (which can be done with a syringe or turkey baster) it doesn't take much force to push the fluid up into the master.
I'm really not sure it would work:confused2: Never heard of anyone doing it. You would think if it would work like this, someone would have heard about it. Seems easy, at least it does in my head. May have to give it a shot one of these days. I've got all new brake lines to install and I also need to bleed my clutch.....stupid ass story on that :biglaugh:
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
You are correct Dan-o that this is quite similar to what I do. Don't us a bottle to provide head pressure, I actually use the master cylinder itself. I take a long tygon tube and zip tie it to the bleed nipple and run the other end to height higher than the master cylinder (do put the open end into a bottle just to act as a catch basin). Then I open the reservoir for the master cylinder and top it up with fluid. Once I am ready I just open the bleeder and pump the lever slowly. The fluid will begin to rise in the tubing. I keep adding fluid to the reservoir and pump the fluid up to a level higher than the master cylinder. By this time any air will have risen out of the system and I can close the bleeder and drain the tygon. Top up the master cylinder and close it up. Using this method you can do both calipers at once even:biglaugh: Has always worked for me.
BTW I do have a set of speed bleeders for a Vmax in the box should anyone be interested...........
thats my concern!
I like the thought of using an empty gear oil container, or something similar, with the little spout on the end....just push it into the clear tubing, maybe a cable tie or duct tape so you don't get a nasty surprise....Just need a vent in the bottom so the brake fluid will flow freely when tipped upside down.
Clutch bleeding in the middle of riding season.....:ummm:
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
OK, OK, I've got another stupid idea
WHAT IF: One were to buy a little $10 pump sprayer, attach a hose to the nozzle, and connect said hose to the bleed nipple? Could make a bitchin' reverse bleeder that holds enough fluid to do the whole bike.
I'm just full of 'em (or it!) today :biglaugh:
WHAT IF: One were to buy a little $10 pump sprayer, attach a hose to the nozzle, and connect said hose to the bleed nipple? Could make a bitchin' reverse bleeder that holds enough fluid to do the whole bike.
I'm just full of 'em (or it!) today :biglaugh:
SeaTownV-Max
Well-Known Member
I just wanted to throw in my 2c about something I just did. I've been lurking in this thread for a day or so bc I just did my brakes, and while the front lines bled up perfect pretty much first shot, and have held up now for the past several days of test riding and bedding in (over 150mi) the back brake howevewr, has been spongy. It WORKED, sort of, but required me to pump it up in order to get full lock on the rear wheel. Obviously this is no bueno on a brand new set of pads and SS lines, so I have been banging my head on it nightly, re-bleeding (w/mityvac) to no avail.
Somebody mentioned that the thread starter might be pulling air in past his bleeder screws. Teflon tape, says he. "Hmm. Maybe I ought to try that out" says I. It worked first time. My back brake is back, it's firm like the front, and I think I've finally stopped throwing good fluid after bad in a vain quest to eliminate the dreaded air bubbles!
Happy bleeding blokes!
PS- I love this forum! Thanks Everyone
Somebody mentioned that the thread starter might be pulling air in past his bleeder screws. Teflon tape, says he. "Hmm. Maybe I ought to try that out" says I. It worked first time. My back brake is back, it's firm like the front, and I think I've finally stopped throwing good fluid after bad in a vain quest to eliminate the dreaded air bubbles!
Happy bleeding blokes!
PS- I love this forum! Thanks Everyone
Last edited:
SeaTownV-Max
Well-Known Member
ok, ok, i've got another stupid idea
what if: One were to buy a little $10 pump sprayer, attach a hose to the nozzle, and connect said hose to the bleed nipple? Could make a bitchin' reverse bleeder that holds enough fluid to do the whole bike.
I'm just full of 'em (or it!) today :biglaugh:
brilliant!!!
crashmymax
Well-Known Member
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